At an initial glance, that green wire is just wrong. Unless someone was making their own fusible link.
You don’t connect a small gauge wire to a large gauge wire, unless it’s meant as a fusible link. But that doesn’t look like specialized fusible link wire.
Maybe it is, and if so, then that’s probably where a break is happening. You should check that one very closely.
The large black wire looks like it’s coming from the alternators BAT output post, and should go up to the battery side of the starter relay/solenoid.
When you follow the wire, where does it go?

 

I agree with 1Ton, that green wire doesn't look right. That should be a fusable link between alternator and battery side of solenoid.

It appears to me that the fusable link was removed and in its place that green wire was used in conjunction with the circuit breaker (the little metal box with the two wires connected in one of the images above).

If I were to place a bet, the PO replaced a burned out fusable link with a circuit breaker, which technically will work in lieu of a fusable link, but with the added benefit of it resetting after it cools down or power is disconnected from it. The wire gauge used though appears too small. The factory alternator only puts out around 40 amps max but you should still have at least a 10 gauge wire for that circuit. That green wire appears to be 14 gauge and I am not sure what the circuit breaker is rated for, but it should be at least a 40amp. I would use a 50amp and run 6 or 8 gauge wire from the alternator to battery side of solenoid if it were mine.

 

I forgot this but I am 99.9% sure there is a fusible link diagram in my 1971 Factory TRUCK service manual & even tells how to repair it, BUT it may be for a different model than the F100.
I will check later. I did read fusible links did not appear until 1972 in F100's, It may have been in a non-Ford manual, though it is an EXCELLENT manual, by a very reputable source, it is non-factory......so that may be a mistake. I will try to have more later.........
There are supposedly 3 different amperage ratings, differentiated by a tag color; mine is yellow . I think rating may should be orange.........if it is factory...

 

Thank You all for helping me figure out my problems with my Ford.

I changed out my green wire and replaced it with a 6 gauge wire, now my lights; heater, and radio come on, but my truck still won't start (no click).

I must be over looking something. Is that circuit breaker suppose to have current on top & bottom at the same time? (black & red)

69 Ford

 

Yes it should. You can think of it as a mechanical fuse. It will open the circuit if a certain amp load is exceeded. Some will reset on their own after they cool down, others will need to be disconnected from power to reset. If it is still getting warm, check the rating on it. It may be too small for the alternator circuit.

 

I did not read the part where this is a F350 you are working on

 

Here is a chart that shows wire gauges and the circuits for our trucks: Ford-truck_wire-chart.gif (700×1093)
Does your truck by chance have an automatic transmission? If so it might be the Neutral Safety Switch that needs to be adjusted. Just a thought.
Here are the wiring diagrams for our trucks, just scroll down to the 1969 section: Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section H - Wiring Diagrams

 

Thank You all for helping me get my 69 Ford running again.

I just rebuilt my stock two barrel carburetor, what is the best way to adjust it ?

Rod

 

I would tune initially using a vacuum gauge, timing light and a tach (if your timing light doesn't read RPM).

Before initial startup, run idle mixture screws in until the seat then back them out 1 1/2 turns. Once you have throttle linkage hooked up, make sure fast idle cam isn't engaged. Back curb idle screw out until is no longer touching throttle arm. Turn it back in until is just touches then add 1 1/2 turns.

Fire the truck up, feather the throttle to keep it running, and be ready to adjust idle up if it is too low. Once you can get it idling, let it run a few minutes, then make sure fast idle cam is disengaged and choke plate is open.

Check idle RPM, with an auto trans, I'd set it about 800 RPM in park, then put into to drive and see what it drops too. In gear, foot on brake, I shoot for 750 RPM give or take 25 RPM. If you have a manual trans, set it to 750 give or take in neutral.

After idle is set, start to tighten idle mixture screws 1/4 turn at a time, adjusting both evenly until you hear and can read a drop in RPM. Connect vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum and start to adjust (loosen) screws back out 1/4 turn at a time evenly until you achieve the highest vacuum reading possible.

Remove vacuum gauge, put air cleaner on and take the truck for a drive until it is at full operating temp. When you get back to your tools, reconnect vacuum gauge, disconnect vacuum advance, hookup your timing light. Check base ignition timing, should be in the 8-12* advance range. If base ignition is incorrect your carb adjustments will be wrong. If your truck felt sluggish off the line, try adding a couple degrees of advance.

After timing is confirmed, check your idle speed and adjust as needed. Make 1/8 turn adjustments back and forth on idle mixture screws to see if you can get any higher vacuum readings. Try to do all these adjustments with the air cleaner assembly on. Once you have highest vacuum reading at target idle RPM, reconnect vacuum advance on dizzy and monitor idle RPM. If it goes up you may have connected it to manifold vacuum. If no change in idle, you connected to ported/timed vacuum. If you choose to connect to manifold vacuum, readjust idle speed to your target RPM. At this point I would engage fast idle cam for the choke and check RPM reading, I usually set my fast idle speed around 1200 RPM when it is completely warmed up like your truck will be. During cold start up that usually gets me close to 1000 RPM.

There are pros/cons of manifold vs ported vacuum but to keep it simple, if you are still bone stock connect dizzy to ported/timed vacuum which will be the small vacuum port located above the throttle plates.

Remove vacuum gauge and timing light and take the truck for a drive. If sluggish on the bottom end, and you are not hearing any detonation/pinging, add another degree of advance, readjust idle speed and mixture, rinse, repeat. Keep advancing the timing until you start to hear detonation when under load at low rpm. Once there, back off a degree or back to whatever setting felt like it ran the best. When you're happy, let the truck cool completely. Once it has cooled completely, ideally overnight, you can adjust the choke plate and fine tune the fast idle speed.

I repeat these adjustments at least a couple times a year, but I also live in an area that reaches 100*F in the summer and -40*F in the winter. There's no single setting that I have found that keeps the truck running ideal throughout the year as seasons change.

 

So you are not working on the carb what was the fix for the no crank / start?
It is nice to post what the fix was as it may help others if they have the same problem and do a search on here.
Dave ----