I'm gonna continue to post for folks who stumble across the page just to keep info flowing. That hole in my oil pan was none other then the original lift pump arm. It seems to have snapped off at some point before i received it and the lift pump replaced. There where three things in the oil pan, the first was the lift pump arm, the second was the pin that the arm rests on in the diaphragm area of the pump and the third is a bit of a mystery. I think it may be a piece from an older version of the pump, but its hard to find any reference pictures. have since pulled the engine and have it torn down. I'm gonna be doing a full gasket rebuild. I just ordered a new valley pan gasket and am struggling to find the correct method to clean everything.

 

So the mechanical pump arm broke loose and was slapped down by the crankshaft through the pan? You said the pin was in there too so it just let loose. That's amazing.

 

The pump arm was left in the oil pan, and yea the only plausible thing is that it got slapped by the crank. Crazy to think that thing has been in there all these years.

I’ve got the engine torn done and have ARP head studs ordered from summit. They are the 150-4069. I’ve done some reading about the torque sequence and I’m just looking for more info as to how many head gaskets I’m supposed to go through doing the reverse procedure no seriously can I torque the heads down with no head gasket for the first three sequences and then do a final torque down with the felpro head gasket? I will be chasing the threads and what not anything else I need know? Thanks yall, here are some pictures of the buried treasure I found in the oil pan!

This is the pin, don’t have a picture of the lift pump arm but we all know what that looks like.

Mystery part I think is from an older model of lift pump

Other side of mystery part

 

I'm not an engine builder, but all that pre torquing sounds excessive. What is the purpose of fitting the heads up without the gasket? My limited experience hasn't included those steps when I have been the helper. Torque sequence is important and should be followed. There are some engine builders on this forum. Hopefully they'll chime in. I'm following along to learn about what you are doing.

 

Here's a summary of what I did when I replaced the head gaskets..

I used permatex aviation form-a-gasket, and reused the aluminum valley pan gasket, possible if you can manage removal without damage.

Replacement valley pan gasket is however recommended.

I would definitely still use form a gasket on the valley pan mating surfaces though.

Putty knife, razor blades, wire wheels for old gasket removal.

I used a knife sharpening stone, picked out a flawless flat one to use, to DIY hone the block and heads flat, could also use sandpaper and a piece of glass.

Clean all surfaces with alcohol and cotton bolls, clean and wipe and clean again and again 4+ times more than when you see no more grease comming off all surfaces onto the bolls.

You definitely need to torque the heads with the gaskets on, I did a 3 or 4 incrimental increase.

I stopped at 95 lbs, on my stock 85 6.9 head bolts.

Look up the correct torque pattern,
And go by it in every pass sequence, install head gasket and head, start at ie. 25, 45, 75, 95 lbs


Some info in a thread when I had to do it ..

Also, I would replace or be careful of the dipstick while doing all this, I crushed mine pulling the motor, and had to replace it with a dipstick adapter lower tube and dipstick tube from one off a 7.3.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...is-help-3.html

 

This is so useful, thank you for the tips. I got the heads off today and things don't look to bad. I'm really considering hot tanking and milling the heads. I've got a felpro gasket which is apparently 10 thou thicker then stock. Does anyone know what amount I can take off the heads and still be within a healthy valve to cylinder clearance including that thicker felpro? Anyone ever do a valve train rebuild and have tips? Would absolutely be willing to get new springs and what not to make things perfect if need be.

 

when milling heads, i would only go to clean and flat. but no more than 10 thousands if you head gasket is that much thicker.
after that, you would have to ink the valves or piston tops and look for interference on the pistons before tightening it down all the way.

 

An old trick is to put a round ball of something like silly putty or clay on top of each piston and then bolt the heads on without the gaskets. Roll the crank over two turns and then remove heads. You can then measure how much squish each ball has and add the thickness of the headgaskets. Gives you a very good idea how much clearance you have. Of course if the crank comes up tight stop turning as you do not want to bend rods.

 

Resurfacing the block/heads is a good idea, I would take off the absolute minimal amount of material to get them flat, our engines already run 20:1 ~ 24:1 compression ratio, or something like that, I dont remember exactly, but it's already super high in stock form.

Just getting the surfaces real flat and removing most high / low imperfections is good enough, I would actually be probably okay with not even completely surfacing them 100%, but just enough to take 85% of the rough edge off and flat, and run it, without taking off too much material, but I'm strange like that.

Do not ever change your lifters, if they are okay. Stock OEM lifters are the boss, aftermarket is 100% trash, it might be tempting to swap them while you got em open, but this ain't no sbc, never put new lifters in, unless there is a problem, and then, only use a used one. Or you'll be tearing down your engine again, like, tomorrow, and putting the old stock ones back in.

Higher pressure valve springs, like comp 910 are not needed in stock, or near stock form, and would only put stress and increased wear on valve train components. Keep your springs if they're okay, stock is best.

If you have the 80's 6.9, one thing you can do, to make a real improvement in the valve train accuracy and longevity, is to remove the stock rocker arm pivot retainers, pull some of the improved, rocker retainer assemblies, off a wrecked, stock 7.3 Idi, engine.

The early 6.9 wore out bad, and canted left and right off the valve stem and pushrods, the updated ones on the 7.3 are beef and never wear out, easy to swap.

Keep oem pushrods only, though, I have mixed and matched used and used-r to get fresh, equal lengths.

You could have your valve seats and valves ground, but they might not probably need it, mine were all fine, but it cant hurt, leak test, If anything dripped a little, but was kindof okay, I would just have them spin and compound abrade them to seal, but check, they're likely fine.

Also, get a Spectre bbc block plate, # 42473, to plug up that fuel pump hole.

 

7.3 is 21.5 to 1 compression ratio in stock form

 

Leroy this is some of the most direct and useful advice I have received thus far. I ordered and now canceled my lifters. I am gonna replace springs with stock from Classic Diesel just for peace of mind. I was thinking of welding that fuel pump hole shut Any recommendations for a fuel system? Also I agree with you in your thinking about not milling everything off. I'm gonna tear down the heads tomorrow so they are ready for the tank and mill.

 

Thanks for the kind words, I'm just happy to contribute to your successful build.

Good call on those lifters and springs and that pumpin hole

Nice, cut & hot tank gonna be like a hot tub and sharp.

I, personally did something different when I built my fuel system, most of it off label, but, I'll tell you what I done,

I took a large 1/4 hp diesel transfer pump, took it apart, cut my own steel impeller blades to replace the nylon ones in the head,

and then power it through a relay, and heavy duty resistor, mounted to a heatsink.

This made for a 10x overbuilt electric motor, with steel impellar blades, but with reduced speed by a carefully measured voltage drop.

If the volts weren't dropped, the high pressure of the full flow of the pump would blow out o-rings, rubber lines maybe, but it is regulated to strongly push steady 3psi only.

Fuel tanks were dropped, agressive wire wheel and sanding, and patched with jb weld where rust was pitty, repainted with rustolium 7777# oil paint cut with gasoline.

I replaced all fuel lines with 1/2 PEX, with all brass fittings and copper crimp rings,

Tight stainless screen for the in tank strainers,

1/2 brass ball valves, for the supply and return lined, and I added a 3rd line, selectable between the two tanks, so I can hit a valve under the hood, to transfer fuel from one tank to the other,

and this line also does double duty, as a relief valve, I can open it 45 degrees to purge ligher air from the circuit of the supply line for fast bleeding, air purge, and priming.

The 3rd fuel line valve is T'd after my fuel pump,

There are 7 manual valves 6 under the truck, 1/2 supply tank 3/4 return tank 5/6 purge and prime tank return select, and 7 under hood to open or close to valves 5/6 or closed under normal operation.

Fuel pump is under hood, normally I would recommend it be in back, to push fuel instead of pull, but this pump is so strong, and fuel hoses so leak proof, it doesnt matter, it's just for easy access.

After that it goes to soft rubber hose, and a sea flow rubber fuel bulb for easy priming and pressure feedback,

Then to a WIX 33403, upgraded XL fuel filter, light modifications were needed, different bolts and at a wider angle.. Easy to do though, if you want, it spins right on and fits, it's just a little big.

Then to rubber hose to a T one going to the IP, the other to an under dash gauge,
SENCTRL 0-15 Psi Fuel Pressure Gauge

And, all problems fixed.

That's just what I do, none of it's really the stock truck fuel system anymore, mostly, I mean fuel tanks, and filter base.

 

Okay so I pulled apart the heads finally and found that the exhaust valves had no seals. Is that normal? Also the spring retainers have these little plastic hats that sit under each one. Rock auto calls them oil shields. The picture below shows them pressed into the bottom of the retainer. Can these be eliminated or replaced with something that isn’t shoddy plastic?

 

I don't know anything about it. ..

does anyone know if it's normal or okay to have no exhaust valve seals?

I left my retainers and valve seals alone bq they were all good, but someone probably knows.

 

Intake and exhaust vales stem seals look very different. I guess it's the exhaust that are the ones, where they're just like a basic plastic umbrella type splash guard type. When you buy the kit w/ both and take them off to replace them, it's very obvious.

Don't be concerned about them being plastic. They can last hundreds of thousands of miles, issue free. More than likely, the intakes will fail long before the exhaust ever will. The exhaust is really more like a splash shield.

Here's the guide to replace them, in truck:

Blue Smoke @ Idle & Clean Under Load? How To: Valve Guide Seals