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Can someone point me in the direction on how to test a temperature gauge? I am sure it has been asked and answered but I cannot find it.
Just in case. I have a 1954 F100 on a 12 volt system. Gauge was hooked up in the past but went with a direct gauge setup with the motor swop. Would like to get it going again but do not want to buy the sensor separately if I need a gauge as well. Currently pegged to “H” so that is a good sign. I do not have a sensor to hook it too for a test. On a later model post, not here, it said to use D cell batteries, and Dennis Carpenter said to use the 1956 sensor for 12 volt systems. I will keep the direct gauge, there is an exact fit for the electrical sensor on the thermostat housing so I could use both.
A stock 54 gauge is of a 6V King Seeley distometer style and needs to be used with the correct corresponding stock sending unit. Yes, the gauge can be tested with a D Cell which should read half way. The stock 6V gauge and sender can be used on a 12V vehicle with a proper instrument voltage reducer. As for the DC advice, it sounds like they were trying to sell you the 12V 56 sender and gauge as a matched set, which also would work.
A stock 54 gauge is of a 6V King Seeley distometer style and needs to be used with the correct corresponding stock sending unit. Yes, the gauge can be tested with a D Cell which should read half way. The stock 6V gauge and sender can be used on a 12V vehicle with a proper instrument voltage reducer. As for the DC advice, it sounds like they were trying to sell you the 12V 56 sender and gauge as a matched set, which also would work.
interesting, So would a 56 12 volt gauge fit in a 54 gauge cluster?
If you put 12 volts through a 6 volt gauge or sender, they may be fried. In 1956, when Ford went to 12 volts, they used 12 volt gauges and matching senders. It's the only year for 12 volt gauges. In 1957, they switched back to 6 volt gauges and senders and reduced the voltage to them using a Constant Voltage Regulator, commonly known as a CVR. Ford used 6 volt gauges and CVRs clear up through the 80's until digital and electronic gauges took over. Test your gauge, and if it doesn't work, it would be just as simple to buy the 6 volt stock replacement gauge for your cluster and matching sender and run a CVR. Don't try to overthink this, it's not worth burning brain cells over.
interesting, So would a 56 12 volt gauge fit in a 54 gauge cluster?
It would not a direct physical bolt up fit, but shouldn't be impossible to adapt and if using a custom dash, it definitely is a workable possibility. But it is much simpler to use the stock 6V setup with a instrument voltage reducer and I hope that comes across in this thread.
it would be just as simple to buy the 6 volt stock replacement gauge for your cluster and matching sender
Where do recommend buying a “matching sender” on my 48 the gauge works, there is continuity to the sender and the sender was ordered from Dennis Carpenter but I still don’t get temperature readings.
On the 48 V8 there are two types of temperature senders. A single terminal which actually measures temperature, and a duel terminal which is simply an overheat switch. Be sure you have the correct sending units wired correctly. Also, you shouldn't use any thread goop on the sending units. They require metal to metal contact through the threaded fitting. I prefer NOS sending units over what is readily available from the specialty aftermarket vendors.
The 6 cylinder still uses the same single terminal 8A-10884 sending unit, and still should not be gooped with thread sealant. I presume you tested the gauge with a D cell or other acceptable manner?
Was looking on National Parts Depot and they have replacement temperature gauge and sending units for 1953-55 in 12 volts. Item number Item # F-10883-13. If my gauge is fried I will go this road, much simpler and easier then the 6 volt ones.
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