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I was incorrect in my first post, i also swapped to a new edelbrock carb. The old one was the exact same series. I had the shop that rebuilt the engine also go over the new carb, as it's been sitting in a box in my garage for a couple years. I still have the old one sitting in the corner of the garage.
The fuel pump is also new. I originally had a mechanical pump, shifted to an electric pump for awhile because I incorrectly thought my truck not getting fuel after sitting for over a week was a fuel pump issue and not a carb float/needle issue. I went back to a mechanical after the rebuild on a recommendation from the guy who rebuilt the engine. So I've got a lot of new parts that I'm trying to get dialed in.
Fuel pump works well, and now the regulator is confirming I have the pressure the carb likes. So that's one problem fixed.
I try to change as little as possible when doing this job. I would try putting the known good working old carb back on. Can you put things back the way they were before you began changing things, that didn't need changing ? Sorry.
I scrapped the old distributor, and to be honest the only thing I viewed as a major change was the distributor. But obviously the carb and fuel pump come into play too.
Id rather not buy a stock distributor and coil that im gonna end up scrapping. But I can take the old carb, give it a quick carb clean and put it back on and see what it does.
Gas shooting out the bowl vents means the bowl is full and the float valve is stuck closed. If the carb had some fuel in it and was in the box for years, maybe even stored upside down the needle valve might be goo'ed in the seat. Some tapping with a screwdriver around the bowl and valve might loosen it. Would help if the bowl was empty. Otherwise take it apart clean it good, adjust and try again.
Alright guys, ive decided to ignore the other issues (ignition switch and on/start hot for the distributor), and focus on just getting it up amd running.
one of you asked for where the gas was shooting from, ill include a screenshot of the video I took that shows the fuel rocket.
today I reset timing. Again. This time directly at TDC. I also put the timing light on each wire to ensure it was getting voltage when my friend hit the starter.
I went through the carb, made sure nothing seemed off after watching some videos on what to check in terms of float needles and jets. Everything looked good. Then I replaced the carb and added an inline fuel filter and pressure regulator between the pump and the carb to ensure it's getting regulated clean gas. Its set at 5 psi.
Upon start it ran maybe 3-5 seconds and slowly sputtered out. And again wouldn't start. Hitting the gas pedal while turning over the engine makes it sound like it wants to, but also launches gas out the carb. but otherwise its just the starter engaging and no sounds of combustion.
The whole time working on it tonight I had to chant "i enjoy the challenge, I enjoy the challenge" to get me through it. And I do, but I'm also looking forward to getting this on the road.
let me know what you think.
I believe this is the last reply we can go by. I do not think it's a float or overflow problem. I believe the engine is cold and possibly the timing may be a little off. But it still should run. A perfectly normal functioning engine will kick back and backfire fuel up through the carb if the engine is cold and the choke is not working. I think he needs to try to start it, patting the gas and keeping it revved up. It should settle down some once it gets some warmth in the engine. Of course then the radiator is going to overflow, I am sure it has air in the block. So we can wait for posts on that coming up if he gets it running.
So i spoke with the guy who rebuilt the engine and carb yesterday.
When testing the engine initially I hooked up the carb without a fuel filter in the fuel system. he thinks because of this some crap from the tank got into the carb and made the needle stick. As some of you have mentioned.
Because of this I pulled the carb and took it to him to go through, because it's a common issue and napa is fairly busy he said he'd do it in his spare time early next week for free. Pretty cool of him.
In the meantime I'm going to pickup a harbor freight spark plug tester and check spark once and for all, do a test off the I terminal on the starter solenoid to confirm it will give me the 12v on start and run so I can run a lead from that to the distributor, and maybe adjust/swap the ignition switch.
I'll let you all know if my efforts are successful sometime next week when I test it.
Do you have a wire going to the "I" on the solenoid?
I dont think the DSII have one as my 81 dose not.
This "I" will have power when cranking as it sent a full 12 volts when points were used then once key was set to run a resister wire cut the volts back.
Now if the wire you are using only has power in run then you could run a wire for the "I" on the solenoid for power when cranking is that what you are thinking?
Dave ----
You are exactly right fuzzface, I just don't know if I wire them together and feed the positive on the distributor, if I'll have issue backfeeding either wire.
I'm almost tempted to just order a general ignition relay and wire the positive from the old coil to trigger it. Feed it from the battery and send the load side to the distributor. Since the positive on the original coil had voltage in start and run, it just had low voltage on start.
based on some deeper digging in the forums I haven't seen any tried and true wiring for these hei distributors. Just alot of complaining from certain guys about how dumb they are, in those individuals opinion.
more to come on that and getting it initially started once I get the carb back
When you first posted about the "I" stud I also thought about back feeding but based on the old points system and the way it was set up:
Power from key to coil and then to the "I" stud. When the solenoid closed to send power to the starter it also sent power to the "I" feeding full 12 volts to coil for a hotter spark for starting.
I have not heard anything about back feeding so you should be good.
As for the wiring I know GM used a heavy gauge wire but think DaveF said you can use the wire that powered the coil to power the HEI.
I dont see why you cant give it a try and keep an eye on it if it gets hot or not. Only thing I would think is it not suppling enough power, would it heat up then? and having a weaker spark?
If you have issues using that wire a like missing low power, you could run a test wire from battery to distributor as a test.
Dave ----
When you first posted about the "I" stud I also thought about back feeding but based on the old points system and the way it was set up:
Power from key to coil and then to the "I" stud. When the solenoid closed to send power to the starter it also sent power to the "I" feeding full 12 volts to coil for a hotter spark for starting.
I have not heard anything about back feeding so you should be good.
As for the wiring I know GM used a heavy gauge wire but think DaveF said you can use the wire that powered the coil to power the HEI.
I dont see why you cant give it a try and keep an eye on it if it gets hot or not. Only thing I would think is it not suppling enough power, would it heat up then? and having a weaker spark?
If you have issues using that wire a like missing low power, you could run a test wire from battery to distributor as a test.
Dave ----
It depends on what year truck and what engine it had originally. I could look it up if I knew. For instance, if this truck was a 300 six with the computer, then yes the TFI coil wire will work, it was full voltage at all times. If it was a DSII system originally, then we will have to look it up and get the proper wire color to hook it up. His relay idea would work also, just more complication and stuff under the hood.
My concern with wiring the keyed run wire with the starter solenoid wire is that "I" post is on the same side as the starter, meaning I'm not sure if the starter would try to engage if backfed 12 volts when in run. I was thinking of just running a test wire from the battery to the I post and see what it does. That would be a pretty good indicator.
Either way I'm not going to do anything permanent until I've got the engine up and running. Until then I'm gonna run with a jumper from the battery.
My concern with wiring the keyed run wire with the starter solenoid wire is that "I" post is on the same side as the starter, meaning I'm not sure if the starter would try to engage if backfed 12 volts when in run. I was thinking of just running a test wire from the battery to the I post and see what it does. That would be a pretty good indicator.
Either way I'm not going to do anything permanent until I've got the engine up and running. Until then I'm gonna run with a jumper from the battery.
It will not. The I terminal is only connected to the starter terminal when the solenoid is activated. I did not read all the previous posts, but just make sure you are getting a full 12v to the HEI during start and run. If you get the wrong wire for the constant hot, it could be running through a resistor, and you will only be getting 9-10v during run. This is how the DSII worked, but your HEI need s a full 12v. Just check it with a meter after you get it running.
I seem to remember testing the positive lead on the coil, and seeing that it had 12 volts on run but like 9 or 10 on start, but I'll have to go back and retest
I seem to remember testing the positive lead on the coil, and seeing that it had 12 volts on run but like 9 or 10 on start, but I'll have to go back and retest
If the starter is pulling your system down, you might get that lower voltage. Just make sure you have 12 when the engine is running. Just sitting there is not a complete test, the distributor needs to be making spark when you test the voltage input.
We have an update. the guy who is looking at the carb got it back to me... along with a bottle of the fuel he found in it. Which looked horrendous. Just the bit that was in the bowls had nasty particles in it.
So now I have a tank to empty. Im planning on removing tue sending unit to get access, then using a stick to mix the gas up and hopefully pull as much crud from the bottom as I can. Then I will pump it all out and use a shop vac to get anything left on the bottom before putting in clean fresh gas.
Then I'll get the carb reinstalled, hook up the fuel line and hopefully have a running engine. Also think I'm going to swap out valve covers. Since I popped the passenger side off to check time it hasn't stayed sealed. And I was sure not to over tighten.
A quick swap for some thicker aluminum covers will make leaking much less likely.
