when you look at those diagrams, they are fuzzy fuzzy fuzzy.

click on them, and then click on the + symbol to get them to blow up to the Original uploaded file..

they will be clear then.

now, Right click on that Exploded diagram and save it to your PC as a JPEG

this will allow you to view it on browser, or Image viewer and expand it as large as you want, right down to just the fuse if that is what you need, and it does not loose clarity

 

The Excursion years were from 2000-2005, and as I understand late 2005 produced, became a 2006 became a Mexican export. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...xcursions.html
With that said, 2000-2001 had an electrical platform that included a GEM module (General Electronics Module) whereas the 2002 and up did not have a GEM. There was the addition of the accessory delay relay circuitry on the rear of the instrument cluster, and I may be wrong but, the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) was part of the 2002-2006 electrical platform. The accessory delay relay was located in the Central Junction Box (drivers knee) (2000-2001)
In any event, and from my experience both working with the shop manuals, and dissecting these rigs in the junk yards, the 2000, and 2001 electrical platforms are the pretty much the same. You will find that something as simple as the wire colors between the 2 years is different, and in some cases the plug shapes too. I would expect this to apply to the 2002-2005/6 platforms as well. The expedition being built on the F150 chassis surely can't share the same schematics as the Excursion on the F250 chassis, and shouldn't even be suggested.
I will scan my 2001 schematics and post here. This should give you accurate wire pathways, and most likely proper plug pin-outs. The wire colors from 2000 to 2001 will be different, but the elements of the 2001 schematics that are correct should give you a good direction.
You will need to check the drivers door window lock switch for issues, as well as chaffed wires in the "body to drivers door" accordion boot, lots of documented tales of chaffed wires in the boot.

 

James, THANKS! Let me dig through these. Appreciate the help.

 

Cargo Master, These are amazing diagrams. Just saw them now. I'm gonna print and get started with the diagnosis again Thanks.

 

Still wrestling with this problem. I bought a new 30 amp breaker for position 601 under the hood because the old won was getting hot. The new one warms up and then clicks like its overheating. Then when it cools off, it must reengage but shortly thereafter it overheats again and again. Obviously there is a short somewhere but it is not between the door and body jam (unless I'm missing it). Even with the wires disconnected from the drivers door, that breaker blows every time the key is on. If anyone has a clue what the next obvious place to look for the short could be, please let me know.

 

Did the schematics help?
Did you at least give you some direction?

The one touch down relay, and accessory delay relay run through the GEM, have you checked for a leaking windshield causing a short with the GEM?

 

Cargo Master, I tried changing and switching the relays at the fuse panel under the steering wheel to the left. Nothing changed and the breaker (601 under the hood) still gets hot and acts just like a breaker should - shutting down until it cools off. Is the GEM you are talking about somewhere else? If so, I completely missed it. The diagrams are perfect btw but I still can't find where the short might be. Can you let me know if I'm digging into the right spot or is there somewhere else I need to look?
Thanks
Ray

 

Actually, "Cargo Master" is something that FTE has assigned to me based on my amounts of posts, The profile name is the 01__Excursion.
The GEM is piggy backed to the central fuse box, drivers knee. sample pics of my spare below.
Maybe as an option, disconnect each individual window switch at each door to see if that changes anything. You'll have to follow the voltage till you get it figured out.

 

Additional diagrams following the 601 circuit breaker to the central junction box. The descriptors like the C1050M, and C1050F describe a male and female connector between the battery junction box, and central junction box. The 170 should describe the circuit number. Possibly one of the 2 mega pin connectors at the firewall.

 

Off topic, but I didn't even know it could be changed until recently. If anybody wants to cutomize theirs:
1. Click the gear icon in the upper right hand corner
2. On the left side pane, under 'Your Control Panel' - 'Your Profile' - click the 'Edit Your Details' link
3. Scroll down to the 'Optional Information - All information will be viewable by other forum members.' section (dark blue bar) and enter what you want in the 'Custom User Title' field
4. Scroll further down and click 'Save Changes'

 

01_Excursion,
These are great diagrams. I am inclined to believe that something after 601 and before the drivers side fuse box is the culprit. I am going to look hard at the firewall today. Its a bit tight there but I'll try and trace the rd/lb wire and see if there is a short. I appreciate your help on this. Been a week and still wrestling but with these, I feel a bit closer.
Ray.

 

The power window loads all begin at the Central junction box, and GEM module, in between Fuse boxes is nothing more than a male and female firewall connector.

Here's a rabbit hole to follow.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16883830

 

Well, folks another twist. After getting the latest diagrams, I decided to reassemble the areas I took apart and determined there was no concern or split wires. Put a new master switch in just to be sure (that was obviously not the problem), re-taped the wires between the door and the jam and reinstalled the door panel and components. My next step was to get into the GEM and look for any corrosion, etc, because putting it back together made no difference.
I miss driving the truck and since the fuel prices dropped considerably, I decided to hit the diesel station (about a mile away) and fill up. About 1/4 mile in and after making a left turn onto the main road, the windows started to work. No rhyme or reason for this and over the last day or so has has continued to operate perfectly.
I might still dig into the GEM but its hard to diagnose something that is not failing. But what I do know, is nothing fixes itself, so I still have a problem and this will make it harder to solve.
When I get to the bottom of the issue, I'll post the results. A gremlin for sure!

 

a few weeks ago, I was working on my truck, had the Ignition ON for a couple hours while trying to fix the rear bumper 7-pin wiring....

the next day, when I started the truck, the ABS light was ON... ??

the truck never moved, yet the ABS light is ON ? hmmmm.

ignored it, a couple weeks later, drove the truck to town, and somewhere along the way in, or back, don't know when.

the ABS light went OUT and never reappeared.

 

John, seems you lucked out with the ABS light. I had a similar problem with the ABS, but once the light came on to stay, I had to change the front wheel bearing hub. Although it was just starting to fail, it wobbled just enough to throw the ABS light on. With how much I drive, that light going on probably saved me from breaking down on the road.