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HELP! Does anyone have a fix for an air diverter valve? Can they be repaired/ rebuilt or does anyone have an aftermarket fix idea, or a spare that’s someone is not expecting $200 for? Mine has a leak in the diaphragm! I assume because when I plug it up and suck on it one leaks air the other does not!
That may be normal.
Blow a little bit of air pressure, into the port that is connected to the air pump. I used a cordless leaf blower on a low setting.
Apply vacuum to the vacuum nipple.
The air should be directed out the horizontal port, opposite the port from the air pump, when vacuum is supplied to the vacuum port.
With no vacuum applied to the vacuum nipple, air should be directed out the bottom port.
Just to clarify, is this the diverter valve, from the back of the engine? Or is it the bypass valve, located near the air pump?
Here's a picture of my diverter valve from the back of the engine, on my '88, 5.0.
Green dot is input from the air pump.
Red is vacuum from the control solenoid (TAD).
White goes to the crossover tube, and into the back of the heads. (Only when vacuum is applied)
Blue goes to the catalytic converter. (Without vacuum applied)
Do you have emissions testing where you live?
Here's a video of how the system works
I believe mines just a bit different from yours, mine a 5.8 351 and it has a bypass and diverter valve on top right next to my oil spout, and they both have a vacuum to the bottoms that the tad and tab solenoid opens vacuum and that opens the valve to the bypass and diverter, they are both the same part number as in the photo I posted, and one is not opening because I believe the vacuums not opening one of them because when I suck on one no air leaks out and it opens the valve the other one leaks so it’s not opening the valve? Does that make sense? I’m not the best communicater out there!
I had a '96 Ranger with a 4.0 v-6. It had a vacuum operated, heater control valve, in the engine compartment. It controlled coolant to the heater. I wonder if you could use one of those in its place. They sure weren't $200.
I believe mines just a bit different from yours, mine a 5.8 351 and it has a bypass and diverter valve on top right next to my oil spout, and they both have a vacuum to the bottoms that the tad and tab solenoid opens vacuum and that opens the valve to the bypass and diverter, they are both the same part number as in the photo I posted, and one is not opening because I believe the vacuums not opening one of them because when I suck on one no air leaks out and it opens the valve the other one leaks so it’s not opening the valve? Does that make sense? I’m not the best communicater out there!
Sounds like your valve isn't working right then.
Try soaking it in WD 40, by spraying it in all three ports.
But most likely, you need another valve.
All bypass valves perform the same function, so if you add 5.0 Mustang (foxbody not coyote) to your parts search, you should be able to find a diverter valve that will work.
You might have to rearrange the air pump hoses or change the mounting position, if you can't find an exact replacement. There are some used ones out there because so many people delete their emissions.
I believe mines just a bit different from yours, mine a 5.8 351 and it has a bypass and diverter valve on top right next to my oil spout, and they both have a vacuum to the bottoms that the tad and tab solenoid opens vacuum and that opens the valve to the bypass and diverter, they are both the same part number as in the photo I posted, and one is not opening because I believe the vacuums not opening one of them because when I suck on one no air leaks out and it opens the valve the other one leaks so it’s not opening the valve? Does that make sense? I’m not the best communicater out there!
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