While my van is down I’m planning several other projects to address other problems

-new turbo back exhaust
-new turbo
-E-fuel kit or homemade
-new fuel tank
-oil cooler
-fix glow plus

Exhaust- finding exhaust for a 7.3 econoline seems like a fools errand. It seems like all the companies who made them went out of business a decade ago. I’m looking at the AFE kit here AFE49-13001 if that doesn’t work anyone know what will work?

Turbo- looking for a little better than stock but I have no idea what the numbers mean and I don’t know which budget friendly brands are reputable

E-fuel/tank- my fuel pump is still leaking and my fuel tank has been sweaty for years. Marty’s e-fuel kit is enticing but I’m confident I can build it for 1/4 the cost once I figure out what all I need. As for the tank, I looked above it the best I could and I don’t see any signs of leaking from either the vent or the sending unit. It seems to be permeating the steel at the pinch weld. I’m not sure if it can be repaired or needs to be replaced

Oil Cooler- my stock unit is all sludge and not really leaking, but seems to add to the overall cake on the engine so I want to fix it up. I’ve been looking at the cheap one on Amazon but again, don’t know if it will last.

Glow Plugs - With these cold temps in CO, the glow plugs really need to be working. I’ll dig through some other threads to see if there’s a good place to start but something tells me a new GP harness is in my future

That’s all I have planned for now, other than the new transmission but that’s pretty straightforward. I just want to take a moment and thank everyone who has responded and helped me out with this e-350. You guys are all rockstars.

 

Oil cooler: you just just clean it and if there no significant pitting, just use new orings and reinstall.

turbo: call KC turbo and see what they suggest. Probably either a rebuild with a balanced assembly or a new one with a similar build

fuel tank: if it is coming from the seam, probably need a new one. May have to pull it find the leak source then decide

efuel: I built my kit, but not everyone enjoys that. They’re some small parts that can slow you down. There are a couple of good efuel build threads here. I like using two Napa spin on filter heads as filters are easy to find. I think I have an aeromotive regulator and a super duty stock Bosch pump. Add some fittings and you are ready to go. Fittings are the tedious part.

glow plugs: wiring may be fine. Just need to test them. Fix what is bad and use a Stancor relay. Even if the current one tests fine. Those relays are built for the intense amp draw of the glow plugs and last for years.

let us know how it goes

 

i agree. Glow plug relay is usually the culprit. i have a stancor in my 88 for over 20 years.
i also use them for starter, and snow plow relays. they are just that good that they never need replacing

 

Just bumped my electric fuel conversion thread. May help you.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I wound up ordering the AFE kit and I’ll figure out a way to make it work. It’s 4” turbo back

ordered rebuild kit for oil cooler

ordered new tank, fuel pickup screen and everything I think I need to do a home brew E-fuel conversion. Total cost for efuel parts is around $425 but I did order many extra fittings

The turbo will have to wait for another time due to funds. These kc turbos are not cheap.

One other part I do need is replacement for my OBOD while I’m in there but I’m having trouble finding what I need. What are those boots called?

edit- also have that stancor relay on order!

 

You can also rebuild the turbo. They sell an upgraded balanced assembly so you don’t have to buy a whole new turbo

 

Theyre called plenum boots. The plenums came in two flavors though, 2" and 3". The 3" are super duty or aftermarket. OBS stuff always came with the smaller factory.

Though I'm not super familiar with the van specifical stuff.

 

If you havent already gotten them, the plenum reinforcing pieces that you hammer in (gently) is a worthwhile upgrade

 

plenum inserts. they keep the tin plenums from distorting/collapsing when tightening the hose clamps.
RiffRaff has them for $30
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/rdp-p...UaAiwwEALw_wcB

 

Got started on the work yesterday but pulling the driveshaft, followed by the fuel tank.the tank was rusting and pitted on the inside so fuel permeation through the steel was causing the sweaty tank. I then took the sending unit out and this is what I found.

do I leave it as is? My plan was to put the umbrella pickup back in but I’m reading that those are undesirable. TIA

 

I replaced my shower head units. On trucks at least, that is how you suck up the last 1/4 tank

 

either replace the shower head, or put a piece of diesel rated fuel hose on the pickup pipe with a "V" notch cut in the bottom end on both sides that goes down to the bottom of the tank.
either work, but i prefer the shower head as it has a screen built in to keep crap in the tank from getting sucked into the fuel system.

 

How far off the bottom of the tank should the shower head be?

 

i try to go 1/4 inch.

 

Progress has been very slow but I’m up to the oil cooler now. What a caked mess of oil. I’m looking for replacement coolant. Will this stuff be ok for this old dinosaur? Should I do a complete flush or is topping off the 3-4 gallons with this ok?