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Apparently only late 7.3s can run ELC do to some injector sealant. Some throw the dice and do it anyway. I run the Fleetcharge purple stuff, common at many places like Wallmart, TSC, etc.
Benefit of it is also precharged with SCAs, I believe the ELC also has too.
Green probably fine if you monitor SCAs. Speaking of which I need a drain and fill on the dually come the spring.
Thanks for the advice. I’ll go with the cheap green stuff from peak and add the… well additives
I have another problem that I created. I’m creating a new wiring harness for the battery terminals all the way to the starter. All the ground rings and connections, everything new. Now to the problem
I have some very finely stranded 2/0 and 1/0 copper wire that’s OFC, I bought it for a project 4 years ago.
I just checked the listing and it’s no longer for sale but all the info is still up and it’s 5292 strands!it’s oil, heat and chemical safe. I’ve been reading up on the stranding and some say it’s worse and some say it’s almost no difference… anyway, is it a good idea to use this stuff for the battery harness? It’s looking like a big NO
edit: looks like this guys makes harnesses with high strand count so I’m thinking I should be OK
Here’s what I came up with so far. This will be mounted basically right behind the drivers side step cut out. Got fuel from tank on left side and fuel going up to the valley on right side. Does anyone see any problems with this setup
The steel is either 16 or 18ga I didn’t measure but you cannot bend it by hand. The plate on the front is to shield it from tire debris. It is bent on the top and side and bolted through. This whole assembly is being bolted up into its home either tonight or tomorrow.
I made progress on the battery cables too, and they are being installed as I type this. Got a new solenoid cause mine cracked at the bolt.. talk about domino effect
The steel is either 16 or 18ga I didn’t measure but you cannot bend it by hand. The plate on the front is to shield it from tire debris. It is bent on the top and side and bolted through. This whole assembly is being bolted up into its home either tonight or tomorrow.
I made progress on the battery cables too, and they are being installed as I type this. Got a new solenoid cause mine cracked at the bolt.. talk about domino effect
would you have it any other way?
i mean really, if life was not difficult, we would think we did something wrong.
Haha you got that right TJC!
I’m wiring the fuel pump today and plan on using a relay. I ran a wire from the battery to the relay (which will go near the fuel pump. Now the question…
Does switched power to the relay have to be a full 12.8v? I found a wire nearby that is 12.5 volts when the key is turned. Will that suffice?
Got it all installed and now no fuel pressure. The pump is pumping and pressuring the filters (do not ask how I know that)
I removed the connection to the feed line in the valley to see if fuel would come out and I get nothing. When I turn the key I can hear the pump going but I have not yet bumped the engine.. too many things still apart to do that.
Is it reasonable to expect fuel to come out at the valley?
Thanks, got it figured out. The larger fuel line on the frame rail (where I tapped the fuel pump into) comes out as the small line in the valley. I don’t know exactly how that’s possible but anyway.. it’s up and running on the small line for now. I will sort it out when I get the time. So many problems, so little time
