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I have searched and found a few threads but no clear resolution of similar problems. Also posted this on Super Duty forum but no response. I do not have a good fuse box diagram for truck (no manual when purchased) and those I have downloaded do not entirely match so any help would be appreciated. Details: Dash illumination, taillight running and park lights go out. Fuse inside panel #13 (20A) and under hood fuse #8 (mini 30A) blown. Replaced both and all lights worked for a few miles, but I sensed may have gone out again when I adjusted dimmer switch up. This time only blew under hood fuse #8. Was away from tools so just replaced fuse. This time I kept the dimmer switch low. Has continued to work for a few days. I will try to chase the problem with multi meter and figured I'd start at the dimmer switch. Any advice on what to look for at the dimmer would be appreciated.
I have searched and found a few threads but no clear resolution of similar problems. Also posted this on Super Duty forum but no response. I do not have a good fuse box diagram for truck (no manual when purchased) and those I have downloaded do not entirely match so any help would be appreciated. Details: Dash illumination, taillight running and park lights go out. Fuse inside panel #13 (20A) and under hood fuse #8 (mini 30A) blown. Replaced both and all lights worked for a few miles, but I sensed may have gone out again when I adjusted dimmer switch up. This time only blew under hood fuse #8. Was away from tools so just replaced fuse. This time I kept the dimmer switch low. Has continued to work for a few days. I will try to chase the problem with multi meter and figured I'd start at the dimmer switch. Any advice on what to look for at the dimmer would be appreciated.
Thanks, will try to report back when I have time to chase this down (not my daily so may be a while). Looks like I have a 30A fuse where a 15A should be according to these diagrams. Must have been a problem before. Tail lamps were replaced with LED but don't think that would be a reason to up the fuse. The trailer wiring is a mess so might have to eliminate all not used.
It could very well be the switch itself about to fail. There isn't any kind of factory relay for the lights so all current to power them passes through that switch, and any upgrades to the factory lights only adds more load on an already maxed switch. It's pretty common for people to retrofit a relay system to take the load off the switch and reduce the risk of failure and fire. There are even kits on Amazon with pretty much everything needed to make the change.
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