I've struck this before and soaked my way out of the problem but not this time,
I have a 351 Cleveland with an OEM points distributor and its locked solid in the block, short to destroying the base which is where I'm getting to.
The engine has been sitting for a couple of years after a rebuild and humidity moisture appears to have 'welded almost' the distributor shaft.
thanks in advance, Ross.

 

Common problem and there has been many posts on it if you search. More effective to search google and it will bring you here than using the FTE search function. Do not destroy it or you will regret. Use patience.
Here is one of several posts which has my experience.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-in-place.html

 

That CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant just on the distributor portion and doing it with the engine warmed up seemed to help me last time.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

I am unable to find CRC freeze Ogg penetrant available here in Australia which is odd as CRC products are sold here, there is a product called CRC freeze in a spray can however it is for electrical circuits and not describe as a penetrant.

It is available on E Bay from USA however the postage costs vary between $37 - $68 a can and therefore prohibitive, US postage costs are the most expensive in the world and sadly many of us over here order from other countries similar products.
Recently I wanted to buy a pair of dent side 76 brake callipers, the calliper cost was 1/2 of the postage cost.

Luckily I have a number of other Cleveland /Big Block distributors in my parts supply so if I have to destroy the distributor I can, in the meantime its soaking in
WD-40.

Regards Ross

 

I think Kroil or PB Blaster might penetrate better than WD-40?

 

No help for OP, but is there a preventative treatment for this? What is it that binds?

 

If the engine is out of the vehicle, flip upside down pull pan and oil pump, try to use the oil pump shaft to drive it out?????? Or a big drift or punch.

 

Use trans fluid and acetone to help soak. This might help grab the neck and help get some twist on it. 12" basin wrench.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inc...EaAmZAEALw_wcB

See if you can wedge 2 pry bars under the body (one on each side) of the dizzy. And with prying/pulling up pressure applied, ratta tap tap with a sand filler hammer or solid head hammer on the lower part of the dizzy body, one side then the other. NOT a 2.5 or 5 lb sledge yet...

denty...I believe you have a aluminum distributor shaft and a cast iron block, so you have dissimilar metal corrosion. Anti seize around the dizzy neck come reinstall time.

 

Yep, alloy, cast iron and moisture are a winning combination for corrosion, my next attempt will be a large plumbers wrench on the body of the dizzy.
Thanks for tips and replies everyone!

regards Ross

 

Is the engine still out of the vehicle? Probably not easy to run it up to temperature at this point so maybe do some freeze and thaw and heat cycling with a torch.
Not a powerful one, of course, but something like we have here in the way of propane torches. Not sure if you use propane, butane, or mapp gas, or something else in your area, but a hobby torch or general use torch might come in handy here.
Alternately heat the iron block around it, and the distributor body at different times. Also, when cold, and then again went hot, rap the cast-iron pretty good with a hammer to send shock waves through.
I know it’s possible even to break cast-iron with a hammer hitting it in the wrong spot, but the shockwaves going through it often free things up, where nothing else can.
Of course, that is in addition to the good soaking with penetrant, rather than instead of.

And this isn’t good news, but when mine was stuck in the 79, it was actually a couple of months worth of soaking and waiting and soaking and waiting, before it came out.
Luckily for me this was all done while I was driving it almost every day. So plenty of heating and cooling cycles.
Use the freeze spray if you find it, on both components. Just like the heat. Freezing the cast-iron around the aluminum could be as beneficial in squeezing it, as in heating and expanding it.

Good luck!

 

You could try to get some liquid nitrogen. Or pack the distributor with dry ice.

 

We had the same problem with my son's 351M. Distributor felt like it was welded in place. We tried every kind of penetrating oil, PB Blaster, CRC Freeze, WD-40, ATF, Penetrol, etc. etc. Several people suggested using brake fluid which is an old school penetrating oil. Believe it or not, it worked, but it took about 4-5 days of applying it, running to engine to heat cycle it and tapping. I couldn't believe it when it finally started moving. I can't say if it was the brake fluid or just the combination of everything over time, but it's worth a try before damaging it.

 

Buy a new one and use a BFH to get the old one out.
They suck. Removed a lot of them in the years past but I never really used a hammer.

 

Check out some Kroil, or even Mouse Milk (Google it I am not kidding), and or auto trans fluid and acetone 50/50 mix. All awesome penetrating lubricants, better than PB/WD. I heard a urbane legend that a can of Dust Off (for your lap top), if held upside down when sprayed, will expel some liquid refrigerant.

CAUATION::!!!!!! You should not hold a can of dust off upside down because it can release liquid refrigerant that can cause frostbite and damage electronics:

• Frostbite: The liquid refrigerant released from the can can rapidly cool any surface it touches, causing frostbite if it touches skin.
• Cold burns: The can can get very cold during extended use, and holding it can result in a cold burn.
• Damage to electronics: The liquid refrigerant can damage sensitive electronics.
• Been known to help break free: old Ford truck stuck distributors during a MAP torch hot and cold cycle treatment of the stuck area.

 

I can vouch for Kroil in his application. The neck of my OE distributor was good and stuck. 2 weeks of daily Kroil application eventually did the trick. Be patient - it will come out.