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So I got in my truck (1994 F250 460) the other day and it wouldn’t start, it would crank but didn’t fire. Didn’t have time to mess with it then, but the next day I went out and it started up like normal. Couple days later I was driving it and it died while going down the road like someone shut the truck off. It restarted then too. So today I read the codes and got KOEO code 211 which is a code for the PIP sensor in the distributor. Looking at other forum posts it’s most likely the PIP sensor going bad or possibly the ICM? Could a bad connector or dirty PIP sensor also cause this? Any thoughts?
normal condition on older fords, those things blow like light bulbs! . pull out distributor, will need a press to push out the camdrive gear, change pip. reassemble all & make sure its together right... some models had this externally bolted to lh inner fender well. (even eisier to replace)
some models had this externally bolted to lh inner fender well. (even eisier to replace)
No PIP/Stator has ever been externally mounted on these trucks. It is located inside the distributor on all models.
Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are a different story. 1991 and earlier, the ICM is mounted on the distributor. You will find some of the 1989(ish) and up trucks with the 7.5L engine have remote mounted ICMs. 1992 and up trucks all gas engine engine trucks got the remote mount ICM.
Your ignition module should be black
If it's black and you have a code 212, you have some diagnosis to do
There are pinpoint tests for code 212 in the PCED
The Stator is the pickup
I'd replace them both with new Motorcraft parts
Then inspect the capacitors in your processor
Your ignition module should be black
If it's black and you have a code 212, you have some diagnosis to do
There are pinpoint tests for code 212 in the PCED
The Stator is the pickup
I'd replace them both with new Motorcraft parts
Then inspect the capacitors in your processor
I don’t have the PCED, is there anywhere else to find the tests? If the problem is most likely in the PIP or ICM I may just replace them both anyway.
I see no need to replace the ICM at this point. Even the Motorcraft branded ICMs are proving to be troublesome. Plenty of counterfeit versions out there. If you feel compelled to have one handy, the black remote mount ICMs rarely fail, I would try to find an original Motorcraft version at a local Pick-n-Pull.
More likely it’s the PIP sensor then. Is it worth trying anything other than replacing the sensor or distributor? The problem is very random/intermittent right now.
A few folks have purchased relatively inexpensive oscilloscopes to view the PIP wave form. You could and should check/clean the connection (both ends) between the distributor and ICM before replacing any parts. Also inspect the inside of the distributor to see if there is debris in the bottom that could be triggering the erratic PIP code.
A few folks have purchased relatively inexpensive oscilloscopes to view the PIP wave form. You could and should check/clean the connection (both ends) between the distributor and ICM before replacing any parts. Also inspect the inside of the distributor to see if there is debris in the bottom that could be triggering the erratic PIP code.
The oscilloscope would only show a problem when the PIP is messing up, not while it’s working, wouldn’t it?