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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

Tips On Draining Frame Mounted Fuel Filter

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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 10:06 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by WXboy
I just did mine last week with a full 34 gallon tank. Fuel level does not matter.

Drain the under cab filter first. Just crack the drain petcock open with a pan under it. You'll get about 1 quart or so of fuel. It looks like a lot is coming out, but really it isn't. Just let it drain. Should take less than 5 minutes. Then change that filter. After it's buttoned up, then do the under hood filter.

Doing it in that order keeps it from doing a syphon effect and continuously draining fuel.
Looking forward to getting this done here while the weather allows. Have to believe that breaking the suction will be the key regardless of fuel level in tank.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 10:12 AM
  #17  
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Anyone want to weigh in on the attitude of the vehicle front to back? Level, inclined, decline making it worse.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
Ah, what do I know... I'm just a guy with an old truck...

No worries, just wanted to clarify is all. Good luck.
Originally Posted by Overkill2
Color me confused but only the 11 to 16s have the frame mounted filter, the diesel fuel conditioning module. I see you have a 2021 so you have the new and current design of the primary filter mounted on the front of the fuel tank... all the guys responding to you have the new Alumina Dutys like you do, except Euroman who has the same gen truck as myself.

Just thought I'd clarify this because of the title of this thread...
Small tank trucks have it in front of the tank, but the large tanks have the housing next to the frame about mid tank.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
yes…one consequence of the b5 thru b20 blends…the bio component foster algae faster.
Remember Fritz, water is also required for microbial growth... and the addition of bio-diesel makes the ULSD fuel that can already easily absorb water absorb more.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Small tank trucks have it in front of the tank, but the large tanks have the housing next to the frame about mid tank.
Thank you... I've been educated and now more informed...
 
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 01:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by augam
Anyone want to weigh in on the attitude of the vehicle front to back? Level, inclined, decline making it worse.
I don't think it matters unless you're parked on a hillside. When I did mine last week my truck was pitched to the right front. Time before that it was pitched to the left. (My driveway isn't completely level). Same results each time.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 02:04 PM
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So let me ask you Alumina Duty guys, how do you break suction of the primary filter... on my style truck with the DFCM, I loosen the cap 3 turns to break suction, then open the cap drain to drain it out before unscrewing the cap and removing it... just wondering how these new trucks do it. I probably only get just over 1/2 quart or so of fuel but I know the newer housings are larger than my DFCMs capacity.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2024 | 06:50 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
So let me ask you Alumina Duty guys, how do you break suction of the primary filter... on my style truck with the DFCM, I loosen the cap 3 turns to break suction, then open the cap drain to drain it out before unscrewing the cap and removing it... just wondering how these new trucks do it. I probably only get just over 1/2 quart or so of fuel but I know the newer housings are larger than my DFCMs capacity.
Not sure I follow. Like I was telling OP earlier in this thread, what I do is just turn the drain petcock 90 degrees and let it drain. I usually get 1 quart roughly of fuel in the drain pan. Then when I run the 8mm bolts out real quick with my electric ratchet and slide the filter out of the housing there is no suction or fuel running out. It's a totally clean process, usually.

When I'm done with that and it's all buttoned up, then I move to the underhood filter and disconnect those lines. I lay a blue shop towel under the lines to catch the drips while I swap out that filter. Almost no fuel is lost.

Side note: I suspect that all the guys that complain about the connectors breaking on the upper underhood filter are just trying to go too fast and are forcing things. I had no clue how to do it before buying this truck but after simply looking at how the connectors work for 30 seconds I got them off easy as pie and every time since then has been easy as pie with nothing broken and no leaks.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2024 | 07:10 PM
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Ijust open the drain and let it flow. havent had a problem, but I have only done one filter replacement.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2024 | 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by WXboy
Not sure I follow. Like I was telling OP earlier in this thread, what I do is just turn the drain petcock 90 degrees and let it drain. I usually get 1 quart roughly of fuel in the drain pan. Then when I run the 8mm bolts out real quick with my electric ratchet and slide the filter out of the housing there is no suction or fuel running out. It's a totally clean process, usually.

When I'm done with that and it's all buttoned up, then I move to the underhood filter and disconnect those lines. I lay a blue shop towel under the lines to catch the drips while I swap out that filter. Almost no fuel is lost.

Side note: I suspect that all the guys that complain about the connectors breaking on the upper underhood filter are just trying to go too fast and are forcing things. I had no clue how to do it before buying this truck but after simply looking at how the connectors work for 30 seconds I got them off easy as pie and every time since then has been easy as pie with nothing broken and no leaks.
you’re right that they’re easy, especially after a few minutes on YouTube, but I wonder why they made them both different. It’s not as if you can swap them over.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2024 | 09:04 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by WXboy
Not sure I follow. Like I was telling OP earlier in this thread, what I do is just turn the drain petcock 90 degrees and let it drain. I usually get 1 quart roughly of fuel in the drain pan. Then when I run the 8mm bolts out real quick with my electric ratchet and slide the filter out of the housing there is no suction or fuel running out. It's a totally clean process, usually.

When I'm done with that and it's all buttoned up, then I move to the underhood filter and disconnect those lines. I lay a blue shop towel under the lines to catch the drips while I swap out that filter. Almost no fuel is lost.

Side note: I suspect that all the guys that complain about the connectors breaking on the upper underhood filter are just trying to go too fast and are forcing things. I had no clue how to do it before buying this truck but after simply looking at how the connectors work for 30 seconds I got them off easy as pie and every time since then has been easy as pie with nothing broken and no leaks.
On my gen truck, on the Diesel fuel conditioning module (DFCM aka pump, filter and water separator), the filter cap has to loosened three turns to break the system suction, or seal (system under pressure) of the o-ring on the cap, or else it will keep draining out, then i open up the drain plug. That's what I learned here and that's what I do.

Since I don't have a 17 plus truck to play around with or change filters, i would think the system is still under pressure without breaking the seal by pulling up on the filter hence breaking the seal of the filter so just draining what's in the bottom of the housing and not keep draining fuel. But maybe that doesn't have to be done for your trucks. I don't know, I don't have one.
 
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