Ipr stuck open code
Ipr stuck open code
I recently bought a 2007 f250 that was not running, i put a new engine wiring harness in it and a new ipr valve, the whole high pressure system works good but the ipr is having trouble. when i wire the ipr to the battery i can get some good high pressure oil and the truck starts to hiccup but not fire up, im getting a p2623 code which means open ipr circuit/open. Im not sure if its a pcm issue, i get good ipr voltage and around 85% while cranking.
okay, i’ve got a new ipr and a whole new engine harness, i’m curious if it’s a pcm problem or most likely the new wiring harness, is there a way i can bypass the harness? go straight from a pcm pin and make new wires to the ipr?
I got the harness off of parksgeek.com, it came with a injector harness as-well which works well. I’ve pulled 2 different ipr valves of running 6.0s so i know that’s not the problem, base oil pressure is good.
Sounds like the non-oem harness then ........ even though you just bought it (even though PCMs do fail - it is rare). You can certainly run a new wire from the PCM, but you should probably run both new wires. The PCM controls operation from the ground wire. The wires at the three PCM connectors are delicate enough that you need to be careful opening the harness and tying into them at that location.
It may not be in the wires themselves - it could just be an IPR connector issue. You could try a new connector first and splice it into the wiring. 6E7Z-12A690-DA
How did you determine that you have good base oil pressure?
It may not be in the wires themselves - it could just be an IPR connector issue. You could try a new connector first and splice it into the wiring. 6E7Z-12A690-DA
How did you determine that you have good base oil pressure?
I’ll put a new connector on it today, what’s the exact pins from the pcm for the ipr valve? I checked the oil filter area while cranking and the oil is rising to the top still, also it shows up on the dash. Thank you so much, i’m 17 and in highschool so i’m trying to figure it all out.
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Connector C1381c (center connector):
Pin 2 (Yellow insulation with Red stripe) - PCM control wire (ground)
PCM 1381a (left connector) Pins 46 and 34 (Red wire) are both part of the switched power circuit.
That said, The red wire is switched power that actually comes from fuse f2.22. It also feeds the EGR valve and it would be MUCH easier to actually tie into that wire at/near the EGR valve actuator (wherever you find that is convenient).
Pin 2 (Yellow insulation with Red stripe) - PCM control wire (ground)
PCM 1381a (left connector) Pins 46 and 34 (Red wire) are both part of the switched power circuit.
That said, The red wire is switched power that actually comes from fuse f2.22. It also feeds the EGR valve and it would be MUCH easier to actually tie into that wire at/near the EGR valve actuator (wherever you find that is convenient).
I tried a new connector and nothing happened, i did hook up the red wire from the egr to my test light, my test light says it’s a negative source even while cranking, i applied positive 12v to that red wire and i got plenty of high pressure oil again. how could i fix that red wire to being 12v all the time?
It is the fuse 22, or a short somewhere.
Often times the fan clutch wiring (or even the fan clutch itself) is the source of the short. The MAF and Glow Plug Controller are also on that circuit (in addition to the fan clutch, IPR, and EGR valve).
There is also a mid harness connector C1282 that can be damaged (or drenched with coolant) and cause this problem. For the '05 and up model years, it is located below the ABS Control Module and also below the Battery Junction Box (under hood fuse box).
Often times the fan clutch wiring (or even the fan clutch itself) is the source of the short. The MAF and Glow Plug Controller are also on that circuit (in addition to the fan clutch, IPR, and EGR valve).
There is also a mid harness connector C1282 that can be damaged (or drenched with coolant) and cause this problem. For the '05 and up model years, it is located below the ABS Control Module and also below the Battery Junction Box (under hood fuse box).
I tried a new connector and nothing happened, i did hook up the red wire from the egr to my test light, my test light says it’s a negative source even while cranking, i applied positive 12v to that red wire and i got plenty of high pressure oil again. how could i fix that red wire to being 12v all the time?
Also, to eliminate the possibility of issues with the individual components themselves having the electrical short, you can disconnect them (Fan clutch, EGR valve, GPCM, MAF) and see if power is restored (key on).
Your ipr is plugged in and everything else is unplugged
Then you crank still no HPO?
If so you can get a DVM unplug harness at pcm make sure IPR is connected at sensor and set to ohms on DVM back probe the IPR circuit see if it’s open circuit or looking for 6 ohm iirc to test good electrically
Then you crank still no HPO?
If so you can get a DVM unplug harness at pcm make sure IPR is connected at sensor and set to ohms on DVM back probe the IPR circuit see if it’s open circuit or looking for 6 ohm iirc to test good electrically








