I have been trying to get my shifts dialed in just right and I feel like I am getting close but i am uncertain about how the E4OD should respond to full throttle. My initial issue was lugging and not downshifting on time while in 3rd with OD off and excessive smoke. I replaced TPS of unknown age with a new Standard Motor TPS and after experimenting with different voltages I currently have it set at 1.28@idle and 4.40@WOT. Now my 3-2 shifts seem much better, no lugging on hills, no excessive smoke when light on the throttle going up and down gentle hills, but, there's always a but, now when climbing a steep hill once I hit 3rd if I go WOT i do not get a downshift. When I tried some lower TPS voltages like 1.2 -4.1 I did get a nice, solid downshift when WOT but I had the excessive smoke and delayed or non-existent 3-2 downshift when on slight hills. So in a nutshell, what SHOULD the E4OD do at WOT when everything is working correctly?


I have not pulled any codes and I still have to do things like check all the electrical connections for corrosion or other issues but the TPS adjustment seems to be the crux of the issue. Only about 55k on trans, good fluid, 1-2 shifts feel great, and TPS has proper 5v incoming and ground is solid with zero resistance. I do have a couple NOS Motorcraft TPS units I could try if the Standard Motor are iffy.

 

I too have a truck with what appears to have a new TPS and I have shifting symptoms that are spot on to yours. How do you do the measurements to do the adjustment?

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ions-only.html

You need a multimeter, T-15 Torx, T-27 Torx and some patience. The adjustments are VERY small in most cases. Sometimes just barely loosening the bolts and then tapping the TPS or TPS bracket will be enough of an adjustment.

After changing out all my trans fluid today I am moving onto checking electrical connectors and picking up an OBD1 Code reader tomorrow. The code reader is only $30 at VatoZone so I figure it's worth it.

 

Well I picked up an Innova OBD1 code reader at AutoZone for $33 and so far only pulled a code 23. For Trucks Only the manual states Throttle Poition Sensor out of range, and for Diesel says Fuel Injection Pump Lever sensor input out of self test range. I am assuming this means my TPS setting of 1.28-4.4 is out of range. Anyone know more about code 23 on a diesel?

Edit: I went back and performed the test a couple more times including with the accelerator pressed to the floor which gave me a code 22 and a code 23. Code 22 is listed as a barometric sensor out of range. Anyone with experience on this?

Edit2: Found a post elsewhere that mentions that running the KOEO test two times in a row will cause a code 22 so maybe the sensor is still good, and I only live at 1400ft elevation so I doubt it makes much if any difference.

 

You mentioned using a Voltmeter and some patience to Adj the TPS. I do have both !! But...

• How do you carry out the adjustment and Where are you reading the voltages?
• Is there a procedure for how to do this somewhere?

Thanks. Dave

 

Click on the link I posted.

 

Well, after unplugging and reconnecting the barometric sensor I no longer get a code 22, and I decreased the TPS idle voltage to 1.23 & WOT 4.3 so no more code 23 or any codes for that matter. I still get a little smoke if I lightly feather the throttle through gently rolling hills but nowhere near as bad as before--before it looked like I was activating my smoke screen defense like a James Bond car might. With my new voltage settings I now get a nice firm downshift at WOT which is what I was looking for. Amazing the difference from 1.28 at idle to 1.23

 

There is no link? or I am looking in the wrong place for it. Would you please try again. Thanks, Dave

 

Here it is again but it was the first line of post #3, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ions-only.html

The top wire on the TPS should be your ground, the middle wire is where the TPS voltage is measured, and the bottom wire is voltage input to the TPS. Top wire should be 0 volts and little or no resistance, bottom wire should be 5 volts. Some people use paper clips or wire inserted into the TPS to aid in measuring the voltage but I just insert the positive probe into the middle wire portion of the connector and then ground directly to the battery post. Turn key to run to perform the test. With positive probe inserted into middle wire of connector and ground to battery move throttle slowly from idle to WOT to see what voltage range you have and to see if there are dead spots in the range--should be a steady voltage increase across the range from idle to WOT. I found many people posting different ranges that worked for them so perhaps there is some individual variation. 1.23 at idle seems ok for now. Oh and make sure your idle with warm engine in Drive is 650-700, I set mine at 675rpm.

 

I dunno what year your truck is, but if you can't tweak the TPS in to get the shift schedule your after, The 1994 TECA's retrofit back to all the E4OD trucks.

 

Would the turbo diesel model listed, F4TZ-12B565EA, be appropriate for any 7.3 IDI with a turbo? I have a 1990 with Banks Sidewinder.

 

Yes. I have that one in my chip truck now ('93 F250) w/ the banks sidewinder. It's a reman by Cardone 73-6104

 

If you want to make it really, bad ars, install this. You'd swear you just installed a new trans.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-towing.html

 

Oh for sure. I have read through a lot of your posts regarding the E4OD and the TransGo kit seems like a killer upgrade. Admittedly digging into the transmission is a bit more than I am used to doing and this is my first automatic. You pulled the trans and did the full Tugger install, right? Currently the truck has the Banks TransCommand which may or may not do anything but aside from my issue with the trans holding on to 3rd too long the thing shifts nicely--not soft but never slamming into gear. I'll likely try a new TECA/TCM since those Cardone units are pretty cheap. I know the PO had a voltage regulator failure and I wonder if the TECA/TCM was damaged at all. So many little fixes and upgrades on a 34 year old truck but the list is getting shorter!

 

Yeah, you can install the main part of the shift kit without pulling the trans though. Even without pulling the trans to mod the front pump, the kit is well worth doing. It's messy and bit time consuming, but it's fun. It will be a well worthwhile upgrade over the electronic trans command. Keep the spare parts for latter, and if you ever have front pump seal failure, you'll have to remove the trans to replace it and and you could mod the pump then......or just take it to a trans shop and have them do that part. This part is only tricky part of the install, that probably most guys shouldn't do themselves.

With the prices of new..........and even used trucks, don't let it bother you in the slightest. These trucks are worth anything and everything we do to 'em. They're worth every penny and then some.