1990 ranger 2.3
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4wd Low
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1990 ranger 2.3
1990 ranger won’t stay running unless gas pedal pushed all the way in then it’ll run(very roughly) at 1000 rpm off the gas pedal is about 400 rpm until it dies… replaced fuel pump and took intake off to get to valve cover and reused intake gasket is there something obvious I could be missing as to why it won’t run properly…changed fuel pump not knowing somebody stole eec fuse from truck!
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4wd Low
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I don't have a pressure gauge and wouldn't have access to one for maybe 10 days I pressed the shradder valve while key on and enough pressure that it sprayed everywhere with force! The truck ran fine I wish I would've noticed the fuse from the start...would it be possible for the intake to be on crooked even tho the bolt holes line up I did pull the intake!
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From: WA
Have you owned it since new or did you buy it three days ago?
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4wd Low
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I bought the truck two weeks ago drove it home next day it wouldn't start..i pulled the valve cover to change the gasket cuz I had oil dripping on the plugs so I thought they failed..changed plugs and wires still no start so I check for fuel pressure and have non at bleeder valve so I changed fuel pump and that's when I noticed the eec fuse was missing and after I replaced fuse the truck will start now but is misfiring bad 400 rpm idle won't stay running unless you're on throttle then it'll run 1000 rpm but still miss I can't go higher than 1000 rpm
Fleet Mechanic
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From: WA
drove it home next day it wouldn't start.
fuel pressure and have non at bleeder valve so I changed fuel pump
eec fuse was missing
I replaced fuse the truck will start now but is misfiring bad 400 rpm idle won't stay running unless you're on throttle then it'll run 1000 rpm but still miss I can't go higher than 1000 rpm
fuel pressure and have non at bleeder valve so I changed fuel pump
eec fuse was missing
I replaced fuse the truck will start now but is misfiring bad 400 rpm idle won't stay running unless you're on throttle then it'll run 1000 rpm but still miss I can't go higher than 1000 rpm
The fact that it ran well suggests that spark, injectors, and timng are all correct. I would check all of the areas that you touched when you removed the intake manifold. And don't overlook the simple stuff like maybe you put the plug wires on the wrong plugs. Good luck.
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4wd Low
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Yes very strange..very irritating somebody had to definitely take the fuse! So after some more digging today after work I've noticed that my fuel pump doesn't "quite down" it's like it's still priming even after 5 minutes of key on engine off, also my fuel pressure regulator is hissing louder than the fuel pump sounds like it could be coming from the inside of the regulator? No gas in vacuum line please any help any guesses are appreciated
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: WA
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4wd Low
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Ok I have correct firing order back to fuel pressure regulator question is it supposed to be audible? I can hear it "hissing" very loudly after fuel pump replacement it's not coming from vacuum side and I can't feel air anywhere but it's definitely the regulator hissing!
Fleet Mechanic
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From: WA
Is it hissing while the engine is running or hissing when it primes?
Fuel passing through the regulator back to the tank can cause a hissing noise. That's normal. But it might be that you have a vacuum leak in the vacuum reference hose connected to the regulator or another hose in the vicinity.
Fuel passing through the regulator back to the tank can cause a hissing noise. That's normal. But it might be that you have a vacuum leak in the vacuum reference hose connected to the regulator or another hose in the vicinity.
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4wd Low
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Truck is too loud to tell if it's hissing while running the hissing I've noticed is key on engine off, I pulled the return line at the fuel pump and it seems like the same amount going in is coming back? Is that normal? Pulled fuel rail all injectors have passed the click test, also pulled fuel pressure regulator and I can't blow thru it so I suppose it's not stuck open...really just need to get the gas saver going before my kid arrives in December! So irritating wish something obvious would arise
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
Look for vacuum lines on the intake that were not seated all the way, or the rubber cracked as they were pushed back in place. A leak will cause poor running.
When it ran on the way home, did it idle smoothly? If so, likely plugs, wires, injectors were all fine, and working, and in that case, I would look back to all the things
touched to see if they were re-installed/connected as they were originally. It is easy to get things connected to the wrong place or not tightly, and remember there is one large vacuum line on the underside of the upper intake manifold... Out of sight...
tom
ADDED:
If the pump continues to run at key ON, it likely may not start. The failure in that case was the ECM itself, though I have no idea what failed. The pump should run for each key cycle from OFF to ON, for around 3-5 seconds, and then stop. If it continues to run, it may be a failing ECM. A 3.8 would not start if the pump ran long, and would only start after the pump cycled off. Anecdotal.
When it ran on the way home, did it idle smoothly? If so, likely plugs, wires, injectors were all fine, and working, and in that case, I would look back to all the things
touched to see if they were re-installed/connected as they were originally. It is easy to get things connected to the wrong place or not tightly, and remember there is one large vacuum line on the underside of the upper intake manifold... Out of sight...
tom
ADDED:
If the pump continues to run at key ON, it likely may not start. The failure in that case was the ECM itself, though I have no idea what failed. The pump should run for each key cycle from OFF to ON, for around 3-5 seconds, and then stop. If it continues to run, it may be a failing ECM. A 3.8 would not start if the pump ran long, and would only start after the pump cycled off. Anecdotal.
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4wd Low
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Yes it ran fine the whole day I drove it about three hours, update I pulled the intake again, pulled the fuel rail, injectors,and fuel pressure regulator, cleaned everything the best I could with brake cleaner and reassembled making sure everything was connected and right...truck still runs the same it'll start but die unless you're full throttle then you get a rough 1000 rpm, I've confirmed that the fuel pump is getting 9.5v and the fuel pump relay and eec relay have 12v on both sides of relay, DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW MANY VOLTS THE ICM MODULE PIGTAIL SHOULD SHOW had what seemed to be 12v going in and good grounds but the other two positive wires where under my test lights capabilities of 2.5v they only had enough to make it barely glow
Last edited by Joshm12400; Nov 5, 2024 at 08:53 PM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
I would leave the ignition system alone, if it is working. You can test with a plug tester. I would test the plug wires resistance. If they have problems, they can cause the engine to run poorly, unresponsive to the accelerator pedal. IOW, check for plug wires breaks internally using a VOM.
I went through that process, pulled my injectors, etc, all because of crappy plug wires that had intermittent failure. IF you use a DVOM, if it reads Ol, your wires need replacement.
The FPR does not usually make any noise, at least I have never heard one make noise, and have had multiple FoMoco's with similar regulators.
A high idle means an air leak into the intake for MAF systems. A MAP system would generally have a poor idle with an air leak. You can use a tanke of propane and a rubber hose to check. Engine at idle, open the valve to allow propane out through the tube. Move the tube slowly around the intake and throttle body, and anywhere you hear hissing. If the idle smooths out, that is likely where air is being allowed in.
tom
I went through that process, pulled my injectors, etc, all because of crappy plug wires that had intermittent failure. IF you use a DVOM, if it reads Ol, your wires need replacement.
The FPR does not usually make any noise, at least I have never heard one make noise, and have had multiple FoMoco's with similar regulators.
A high idle means an air leak into the intake for MAF systems. A MAP system would generally have a poor idle with an air leak. You can use a tanke of propane and a rubber hose to check. Engine at idle, open the valve to allow propane out through the tube. Move the tube slowly around the intake and throttle body, and anywhere you hear hissing. If the idle smooths out, that is likely where air is being allowed in.
tom