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I can’t find anything on this so I was hoping I could get some support here, my current injection pump that I am replacing here soon does not have the timing mark on the top, as well as the gear housing only has the slight mark circled that I can’t tell is a timing mark or just a scratch, can anybody confirm or deny if that is a timing mark? The only form of a mark on both is what I can only assume is a reference mark on the side (also attached) I do not have a timing probe or really a way of getting one so I’m relying on starting on the mark and timing by ear.
I have always read there are reference marks on both the Pump and Gear Housing.
I just replaced both the IP and Injectors about 3 months ago, so I can confirm there
is the marks,
Just went out to the shop to check on some old IP`s I have a some spare Gear Housings.
Plus by 2 spare Engines and then check on my 86. They all have the line stamped on the
metal.
I read that is a reference point then the engines were assembled at the factory.
As the pumps wear, where ever you start with a New/Replacement pump, and
as the things wear, the timing will change, and will need to be readjusted.
Move the Pump to the Pass side advances the timing
Move the Pump to the drivers side will retard the timing.
Never move the pump with the Engine running.
Good idea to loosen the Injector lines when you move the Pump, then tighten them down.
Here is a couple YT Vids showing how to move the Pump.
He is using the Feret Timing meter, but NLA, there are others similar if you search, some times
these come up.
I have always read there are reference marks on both the Pump and Gear Housing.
I just replaced both the IP and Injectors about 3 months ago, so I can confirm there
is the marks,
Just went out to the shop to check on some old IP`s I have a some spare Gear Housings.
Plus by 2 spare Engines and then check on my 86. They all have the line stamped on the
metal.
I read that is a reference point then the engines were assembled at the factory.
As the pumps wear, where ever you start with a New/Replacement pump, and
as the things wear, the timing will change, and will need to be readjusted.
Move the Pump to the Pass side advances the timing
Move the Pump to the drivers side will retard the timing.
Never move the pump with the Engine running.
Good idea to loosen the Injector lines when you move the Pump, then tighten them down.
Charlie
That’s what I thought, guess I’ll have to eyeball it to get a starting point and move on from there.
They say only move it like a dime`s width each time, you will get it close.
I added a couple YT video`s that might help you in above post.
There is 3 9/16" nuts that hold the Pump to the gear Housing.
You will need to heat and bend a wrench to be able to access these nuts.
I have 3 different one`s I modified. Also need to grind down head of the wrench
to get in there.
Here is an e-bay listing of the "official" Ford tool. I have one, use it along with my
home made one`s. Think I paid $38 with free shipping. Bring up the page and 4 more
are listed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/17656437043....c101506.m1851
The mark you circled in red looks like the factory or static timing mark if it is on the gear housing. As far as I know that mark is what most people use to align their pump upon initial install but that it was only a correct timing mark for the original factory installed IP. Basically the mark on the gear housing shoul be close enough so you can get the engine running and then proceed to time it properly with one of the various tools available. On my '92 the pump is advanced(Towards the passenger side) a little bit beyond the static mark to get 8.9 degrees and on my '90 the pump is actually retarded(Towards the driver side) from the static mark and it currently sits at 10.5 degrees, which was not my doing and will soon be retarded to 7.5 or 8 degrees. To help make subtle adjustments I use a turnbuckle tensioner attached from the fuel filter header to a box wrench holding the IP.
Like the others have said, there will be a mark on the gear housing and pump housing. That mark is just to get you going, fine tuning is done after.
Some guys can time them by ear, some guys have the proper timing tools. I am neither of those guys, and couldn’t find anybody with timing tools. I lined the marks up and that was it. I know it needs to be advanced a little because it sounds flat when idling, but I'm shooting in the dark without the proper tools.
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