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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Engine seized-now what

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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 08:23 AM
  #1  
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Engine seized-now what

Despite my lack of knowledge I was able to get a 66 f100 run I g great over last 2 years thanks to you all, mechanics, YouTube, etc. everything was great.
and then, the engine seized on me. So now what?
it was a v8353 3 speed. Garage said with an engine bay that big I had options. Again given I’m a newbie what should I be tho on g about. One hand I’m included to replace with exact same thing a used v8353 - which I’ve found. On the other, given fuel efficiency and other considerations should I consider a swap? If so, what? I hear LS but again I’m not really sure what that all entails. If I get an engine do I also get a new transmission? If i get both even if not a v8 352, does that “simply” replace what I have?

What’s the most economical, easiest way to do this…and get my truck running again.

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 09:15 AM
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Your 3-speed transmission will likely not bolt up behind an LS engine. Often times an engine swap will require the transmission to be swapped as well. Is that simple? I'd say for someone with little experience it could be both expensive and difficult. Paying a shop to do the work is one option but you likely pay a lot more than if you could do the work yourself. Swapping out the same dimensionally sized engine with another of the same manufacturer is one of the easiest ways to go. Motor mounts, transmission, ignition, wiring, etc. should all be plug N play. Anything else will start to add complexity to the swap. Complexity will usually take longer to implement and cost more. So, it you are looking for the most expedient cost-effective way I'd think replacing with the same is the way to go.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 09:27 AM
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What do you intend to use that truck for? If you aren’t using it often, you can likely bear the cost of lower MPG. Just have your current motor rebuilt, keep the same transmission.

You mentioned both “easy” and “economical”. Easiest is to just write the check and have it done. Economical? You are apparently entertaining the idea of having a garage do the work of a replacement ,plus perhaps a different transmission - that’s not going to be economical. BTW, I’d not patronize a garage that recommended sticking a Shivy motor in my Ford.

If you use that truck often, as I do mine, I’d want things done as quickly as possible. With my skillset - or lack thereof - when a problem arises that I can’t or don’t want to do myself - I find out who can do what it is I need done, and does it the best - and I try to hire them. I have - usually - enough money to get things done quickly.

If, however, I was of lower economic standing, I wouldn’t be involved in the Old Car Hobby, period. It’ll never be an inexpensive endeavor. True, costs can be somewhat ameliorated by doing it “over time”. But, this is at the cost of having your truck down or unusable for perhaps long periods. That, I can’t afford.

Across the two FTE Forums I’ve been involved with over the last 20 years or so, I’ve seen collector/hoarders that have plenty of “projects/rusting hulks” on their property with hardly one that runs. Some Day, they say. Meanwhile, a decade or more slips by, the dream still vivid in their minds. But they’re not driving that dream, are they?

On the other hand, I’ve seen so many kids show up here with Grandpa’s Truck, complete with grandiose plans and thin wallets. They’re gonna lower it, bag it, put 20’s on it, put the body on a newer truck chassis to make it easier to drive, add ground effect lights. Sure they will. What they really want is a newer truck.

There was recently a guy , now gone, that wanted to armor-plate his truck, install bullet proof glass , and other nonsense . He really wants an MRAP or a tank, methinks. He’s also down the road, too.Most of these children disappear in short order.

No magic pill/easy solution exists for most things in life. I would either have your current motor rebuilt, or put in a remanufactured one if you can do so.
But I gotta go now, my wife’s on the way home and I have to clean the garage, and sharpen her kitchen knives.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 09:48 AM
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You could buy a lot of gas for the cost of an LS swap
Quickest and easiest way to get your truck back on the road is to find a good used 352, 360 or 390 and swap it in. No fabrication required.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 10:12 AM
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Charles is your doctor. Unless you go all in on an LS swap, to include all the electronics, the transmission, rear gearing, and anything else that goes with it to make it run, you won't gain anything. And that means money. You could be into it ten grand by time you get it all set up, especially if you don't have the knowledge to do it yourself. Modern powerplants are highly involved with endless miles of wiring, sensors and other magic gadgets that mere mortals don't understand anymore.

Even the simplest swaps are incredibly involved with little details that most people don't think about, from custom built mounts, cooling systems, exhaust, steering, all the way down to gas pedal linkage all has to be worked around, replaced or rearranged. And that means time and lots of money. Anything beyond the plug and play FE model engine you have will become spendy, and the more modern and exotic you go, LS, Coyote, etc., the cost goes up exponentially. Drop in your replacement 352, or rebuild the one you have and be on the road in a matter of days and at a fraction of the cost, and work, of a foreign swap.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 10:39 AM
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352

Do yourself a big favor and get the 352 rebuilt.
It cost me over 10k to convert my 68 to a Coyote. And that is me doing all the work in my garage.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 12:26 PM
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If you just want to get back on the road, get a long block and bolt it in. Here is one of several places and unlike most they don't require a core. Ford 5.8 352 Premium Long Block 1965-1967 - NO CORE REQUIRED - 1 Year Limited Warranty
If you have yours rebuilt it will likely cost as much or more depending on why it seized and what condition the heads are in. Don't know about machine shops in your area but here they are running about 4 months out.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 11:37 PM
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X2 on Mabbco. They have been doing this a long time. But that price is not the end of it. Heads redone, gaskets and whatever else comes up you will be $5k+. You could even opt for a 390 block.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2024 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Christmas
X2 on Mabbco. They have been doing this a long time. But that price is not the end of it. Heads redone, gaskets and whatever else comes up you will be $5k+. You could even opt for a 390 block.
Are the heads not included with a long block?

Mabbco looks like a good place to go just to get the truck back on the road. As Newbie 66 gets more familiar with the truck, might want to step up to finding an experienced FE builder...more money but likely more satisfaction if the plan is to rack up some miles.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2024 | 08:09 AM
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The heads are included on a long block. But they don't have rocker shafts in the case of and FE. Which adds a couple hundred bucks if your old ones need replaced. I would guess most long blocks will need another $600 in small parts and gaskets + whatever freight is involved. All that depends on how worn out your old stuff is.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2024 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Newbie_66
Despite my lack of knowledge I was able to get a 66 f100 run I g great over last 2 years thanks to you all, mechanics, YouTube, etc. everything was great.
and then, the engine seized on me. So now what?
it was a v8353 3 speed. Garage said with an engine bay that big I had options. Again given I’m a newbie what should I be tho on g about. One hand I’m included to replace with exact same thing a used v8353 - which I’ve found. On the other, given fuel efficiency and other considerations should I consider a swap? If so, what? I hear LS but again I’m not really sure what that all entails. If I get an engine do I also get a new transmission? If i get both even if not a v8 352, does that “simply” replace what I have?

What’s the most economical, easiest way to do this…and get my truck running again.

Thanks
Did you try to "bar over" the engine? In other words, put a socket wrench on the damper puller and attempt to rotate the engine by hand.

Or otherwise do any diagnosing?
 
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