1975 fuel filter location
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4wd Low
Joined: Oct 2024
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1975 fuel filter location
Hello!I'm new to the forum and could use a hand.My 75 f250 390 camper special stalls out while driving. It'll start right back up and drive for a bit. I am guessing fuel filter, silly thing is I googled it to try and get an image (so I know what I'm looking for) but it would appear there are 2? A canister one on the fuel pump? (Which I thought was in the tank) And the elusive filter they speak of off some kind of pressure line... I'm a gal, with about a 2% understanding of mechanical workings. I've googled like crazy to find location of fuel filter, but alas, there are too many options and I am now confused. I could really use a hand with clear step by step instructions. Even pictures! I have zero pride to be crushed Thanks!Side note, it's a duel tanker, I only use the front tank, rear is empty.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1,063
From: Montana
Depending on whether you have factory carb or aftermarket can make a difference here. If there is a canister on your fuel pump, then yes you would have a filter in there.
On factory carbs the fuel filter screws into the carb and the fuel line connects to it. For after market carbs a universal filter is used and in most cases will be inline between fuel pump and carb. Some may put one instead between fuel pump and hard line on the frame near steering box. There's always the possibility there's a fuel filter back by the tank.
If you can snap some pictures of your carb and fuel pump and upload them here we can provide some better guidance.
On factory carbs the fuel filter screws into the carb and the fuel line connects to it. For after market carbs a universal filter is used and in most cases will be inline between fuel pump and carb. Some may put one instead between fuel pump and hard line on the frame near steering box. There's always the possibility there's a fuel filter back by the tank.
If you can snap some pictures of your carb and fuel pump and upload them here we can provide some better guidance.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 12
Likes: 10
Depending on whether you have factory carb or aftermarket can make a difference here. If there is a canister on your fuel pump, then yes you would have a filter in there.
On factory carbs the fuel filter screws into the carb and the fuel line connects to it. For after market carbs a universal filter is used and in most cases will be inline between fuel pump and carb. Some may put one instead between fuel pump and hard line on the frame near steering box. There's always the possibility there's a fuel filter back by the tank.
If you can snap some pictures of your carb and fuel pump and upload them here we can provide some better guidance.
On factory carbs the fuel filter screws into the carb and the fuel line connects to it. For after market carbs a universal filter is used and in most cases will be inline between fuel pump and carb. Some may put one instead between fuel pump and hard line on the frame near steering box. There's always the possibility there's a fuel filter back by the tank.
If you can snap some pictures of your carb and fuel pump and upload them here we can provide some better guidance.
It's that metal tube canister in front with two black houses possibly a fuel filter? I can't seem to attach more than one photo, I'm try to get more up
This is attached to the frame and has wires and lines going to the front tank. What is this? I am not seeing a fuel "pump" from my limited understanding of what shape I should be looking for...
Thanks everybody who's taking their time to explain!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1,063
From: Montana
The second image you showed that is under the truck near the rear tank, that is called the fuel transfer valve, when you flip the switch on the dash that valve is what controls whether your fuel is drawn from rear or mid tank.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1,063
From: Montana
Might not be a bad idea to replace the hoses when you replace the fuel filter. They look a bit aged.
That carb could certainly use a refresh, the accelerator pump is leaking. If you are confident in your abilities you could order a refresh kit and rebuild it yourself or have someone do it for you.
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4wd Low
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Ok both of you, that's perfect! The circling and labeling is exactly what I needed. Sheesh you all are just fabulous!!
Alrighty, I'm off to parts store!
Thank you!!
Alrighty, I'm off to parts store!
Thank you!!
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4wd Low
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Mterickson
Haha well I would say my skill set is utterly dismal. I'm pretty sure I should say away from any kind of clean up or rebuild kit at this point.
But I may go for the hoses, that seems doable! Also I saw my belts are in very very sad shape.
Haha well I would say my skill set is utterly dismal. I'm pretty sure I should say away from any kind of clean up or rebuild kit at this point.
But I may go for the hoses, that seems doable! Also I saw my belts are in very very sad shape.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1,063
From: Montana
At the parts store they should be able to cut you some 3/8" fuel hose (you can reuse the clamps) and some smaller vacuum hose for the distributor. They should have an assortment pack of vacuum caps.
The belts are not difficult to replace. Assuming your a/c compressor is still there and has a belt, you'll have that one, one for p/s and another for the alternator on the left side of the engine. There is a possibility of another belt for a smog air pump if the truck came with one and still has it on there. If I recall correctly the air pump will be located under the alternator on the left side as you're are facing the engine.
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4wd Low
Joined: Oct 2024
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The smaller hose that I pointed to will connect to your distributor and is easy to replace. Vacuum leaks will cause issues with how the engine runs.
At the parts store they should be able to cut you some 3/8" fuel hose (you can reuse the clamps) and some smaller vacuum hose for the distributor. They should have an assortment pack of vacuum caps.
The belts are not difficult to replace. Assuming your a/c compressor is still there and has a belt, you'll have that one, one for p/s and another for the alternator on the left side of the engine. There is a possibility of another belt for a smog air pump if the truck came with one and still has it on there. If I recall correctly the air pump will be located under the alternator on the left side as you're are facing the engine.
At the parts store they should be able to cut you some 3/8" fuel hose (you can reuse the clamps) and some smaller vacuum hose for the distributor. They should have an assortment pack of vacuum caps.
The belts are not difficult to replace. Assuming your a/c compressor is still there and has a belt, you'll have that one, one for p/s and another for the alternator on the left side of the engine. There is a possibility of another belt for a smog air pump if the truck came with one and still has it on there. If I recall correctly the air pump will be located under the alternator on the left side as you're are facing the engine.
Jeez I sure appreciate everything and all the knowledge!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,662
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From: Montana
You're welcome.
When the truck stalls, are you moving or does it happen when you slow down and come to a stop? Does it fire back up immediately, crank for awhile before it fires or do you have to wait a few minutes before it will start again?
When the truck stalls, are you moving or does it happen when you slow down and come to a stop? Does it fire back up immediately, crank for awhile before it fires or do you have to wait a few minutes before it will start again?
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4wd Low
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It dies both while idling and driving, it starts promptly, with no wait time. It's a5 speed, so I'm not sure if that makes any difference like it's getting push started. I was really hoping it was just gunk in the filter like rust from tank since the poor thing is only run a handful of times in the summer. It does have relatively new gas, and I put heat in every winter.
Any other possible reasons for the stall out I'm definitely open to hearing. I also have to locate the pump.
Any other possible reasons for the stall out I'm definitely open to hearing. I also have to locate the pump.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1,063
From: Montana
It's a manual 5 speed? That must have been swapped in. The manual transmissions offered in 1975 were either a 3 speed or 4 speed transmission. It's possible there's some sediment in the tank and maybe some chunks of rust that are blocking flow while engine is running and that debris falls away when the engine stalls which allows you to restart right away.
Is it stalling out when you let off throttle and press in the clutch in to shift?
I ask because it's possible your idle speed is set too low. When you fire the truck up after it has sat for awhile and cooled off the idle is controlled by the choke. As the vehicle warms up the choke opens and no longer keeps the idle speed higher. If the curb idle is too low the engine will stall at idle or when you press clutch in to shift and left off the throttle.
If the truck is starving for fuel you will often have some surging before it dies where the idle will drop then come back up and will do this a few times before it actually stalls out.
Is it stalling out when you let off throttle and press in the clutch in to shift?
I ask because it's possible your idle speed is set too low. When you fire the truck up after it has sat for awhile and cooled off the idle is controlled by the choke. As the vehicle warms up the choke opens and no longer keeps the idle speed higher. If the curb idle is too low the engine will stall at idle or when you press clutch in to shift and left off the throttle.
If the truck is starving for fuel you will often have some surging before it dies where the idle will drop then come back up and will do this a few times before it actually stalls out.