Disc brake conversion issues
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 126
Likes: 13
Disc brake conversion issues
1965 f 100, long bed, no power steering
Members,
about a year ago I did a disc brake conversion, pretty simple, everything worked great.
NOW!, when driving it’s silent, when i step on the brake I hear, thud, thud, thud. If I release the pedal, it goes away
It’s NOT a rapid clicking, I’d say it’s a thud every revolution. Probably less then 1000 miles on the system.
My uneducated guess may be something loosned up? A fast look under didn’t see anything.
Any suggestions?
Members,
about a year ago I did a disc brake conversion, pretty simple, everything worked great.
NOW!, when driving it’s silent, when i step on the brake I hear, thud, thud, thud. If I release the pedal, it goes away
It’s NOT a rapid clicking, I’d say it’s a thud every revolution. Probably less then 1000 miles on the system.
My uneducated guess may be something loosned up? A fast look under didn’t see anything.
Any suggestions?
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,621
From: Seattle
Ensure that the caliper bolts are tight. Loose caliper bolts can cause a thudding noise when the brakes are applied.
Check the bolts on the caliper bracket as well. These can also become loose over time and cause noise.
Suspension Components: Inspect the suspension components for any wear or looseness. Worn suspension parts can sometimes cause brake-related noises.
Check the rotor surface for any signs of corrosion or debris. Sometimes, corrosion can build up and cause a thudding noise when the brake pads make contact
Check the bolts on the caliper bracket as well. These can also become loose over time and cause noise.
Suspension Components: Inspect the suspension components for any wear or looseness. Worn suspension parts can sometimes cause brake-related noises.
Check the rotor surface for any signs of corrosion or debris. Sometimes, corrosion can build up and cause a thudding noise when the brake pads make contact
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 713
If the sound increases/decreases with wheel speed would first suspect worn pads. Worn/warped rotor also would be suspect. Can you feel it in the pedal? Also, are you sure it's the front brakes? If it is the front you'll likely hear it just lightly touching the pedal whereas if it's the rear you'd be into the pedal a bit more. Take a friend for a whirl and have 'em hang their head out the window or better yet, have 'em ride in the back to help determine if front, rear, left or right if you're not sure. Maybe can pin it down to 1 wheel.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 126
Likes: 13
If the sound increases/decreases with wheel speed would first suspect worn pads. Worn/warped rotor also would be suspect. Can you feel it in the pedal? Also, are you sure it's the front brakes? If it is the front you'll likely hear it just lightly touching the pedal whereas if it's the rear you'd be into the pedal a bit more. Take a friend for a whirl and have 'em hang their head out the window or better yet, have 'em ride in the back to help determine if front, rear, left or right if you're not sure. Maybe can pin it down to 1 wheel.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 126
Likes: 13
Members,
I figured it out.
l took the wheels off and noticed a wear spot on the inside of the wheel. I looked at the caliper and saw a wear spot on that as well.
I took my grinder and ground it ever so slightly., Drivers side. Noise is gone. Why it took so long to present itself? Who knows. Maybe cause I drive it about 50 miles a month. I now know why the kit says certain wheels may or may not work
I figured it out.
l took the wheels off and noticed a wear spot on the inside of the wheel. I looked at the caliper and saw a wear spot on that as well.
I took my grinder and ground it ever so slightly., Drivers side. Noise is gone. Why it took so long to present itself? Who knows. Maybe cause I drive it about 50 miles a month. I now know why the kit says certain wheels may or may not work
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1,063
From: Montana
Members,
I figured it out.
l took the wheels off and noticed a wear spot on the inside of the wheel. I looked at the caliper and saw a wear spot on that as well.
I took my grinder and ground it ever so slightly., Drivers side. Noise is gone. Why it took so long to present itself? Who knows. Maybe cause I drive it about 50 miles a month. I now know why the kit says certain wheels may or may not work
I figured it out.
l took the wheels off and noticed a wear spot on the inside of the wheel. I looked at the caliper and saw a wear spot on that as well.
I took my grinder and ground it ever so slightly., Drivers side. Noise is gone. Why it took so long to present itself? Who knows. Maybe cause I drive it about 50 miles a month. I now know why the kit says certain wheels may or may not work
I did a rear disc conversion on my '79 and had to clearance the calipers to clear the 15" factory steel wheels, I decided to install 16" wheels designed for disc brakes later on to avoid any future clearance issues as the pads and rotors wore. I still ended up needing to add clearance to the brake pads after initial break-in due to the ears of the pad rubbing on the rotor hat. Didn't hear it driving forward, but you could really hear it backing up when the caliper shifted ever so slightly and allowed the ear to rub on the rotor. That was more a whine/squeal though instead of the thud that you heard.
It's always something when you modify OEM components, glad you found your culprit.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 126
Likes: 13
The calipers slide side to side as they operate and their position changes as the pads wear, rotors get broken in, etc. You may have had enough clearance initially but as everything broke-in, pads wore a little bit the caliper shifted around and made contact with the wheel.
I did a rear disc conversion on my '79 and had to clearance the calipers to clear the 15" factory steel wheels, I decided to install 16" wheels designed for disc brakes later on to avoid any future clearance issues as the pads and rotors wore. I still ended up needing to add clearance to the brake pads after initial break-in due to the ears of the pad rubbing on the rotor hat. Didn't hear it driving forward, but you could really hear it backing up when the caliper shifted ever so slightly and allowed the ear to rub on the rotor. That was more a whine/squeal though instead of the thud that you heard.
It's always something when you modify OEM components, glad you found your culprit.
I did a rear disc conversion on my '79 and had to clearance the calipers to clear the 15" factory steel wheels, I decided to install 16" wheels designed for disc brakes later on to avoid any future clearance issues as the pads and rotors wore. I still ended up needing to add clearance to the brake pads after initial break-in due to the ears of the pad rubbing on the rotor hat. Didn't hear it driving forward, but you could really hear it backing up when the caliper shifted ever so slightly and allowed the ear to rub on the rotor. That was more a whine/squeal though instead of the thud that you heard.
It's always something when you modify OEM components, glad you found your culprit.
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