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Lets discuss return line filtering

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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 11:53 AM
  #16  
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Overkill2
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Originally Posted by rufushusky
I had a 2 micron fuel filter hanging out on a frame rail on my old dodge for about 100k miles, no issues with handful of below zero starts. Actually, had the low pressure pump crap out and my CP3 was drawing through a 10 micron W/S, the 2 micron and the factory 5 micron filters. 03-07 CR injectors are stupid sensitive. With properly treated fuel I wouldn't worry about it but a filter wrap isn't the worst idea either.



The original S&S return filter kit used a Racor SNAPP filter, they swapped that out for a 9 micron Donaldson spin on I believe due to availability of the snapp filters. IMHO 10-20 microns is plenty for return line filtration.
I'm still rocking my original SNAPP filter that came with my Gen 2 kit... no issues with fuel pressure. I monitor pressure of the DFCM (primary pump) on my iDash with the factory dual fuel temp/pressure sensor under the hood... at one point i will replace it as i have two SNAPP marine version filters, the housing is white.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 11:55 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Not when first started, as you mentioned in the previous post, the top filter would go to bypass in COLD weather for fuel gelling, the bio mass would be carelessness and that is an example of neglect, so they deserve to lose the fuel system. If the top filter gelled up, so would the S&S filter sitting next to it but more exposed, so the back pressure on the system would cause the engine to run extremely bad at which point, shut if off.

Properly treated fuel shouldn't gel or get algae. On the flip side, that window in the new kit allows one to see the fuel condition as well. A real quick look will tell if the fuel is gelling or if there is a squid being born.
The reason bacteria, actually called microbial growth, or "bugs" grow in fuel is because water is present. Bacteria needs water to grow in fuel. No water, no bugs... they can't grow on food (diesel) alone.
 

Last edited by Overkill2; Oct 26, 2024 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Correct post
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Old Oct 26, 2024 | 07:13 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
I'm still rocking my original SNAPP filter that came with my Gen 2 kit... no issues with fuel pressure. I monitor pressure of the DFCM (primary pump) on my iDash with the factory dual fuel temp/pressure sensor under the hood... at one point i will replace it as i have two SNAPP marine version filters, the housing is white.
Okay here's the product page link for the Parker SNAPP filter...

https://ph.parker.com/ca/en/product/...acor/r23107-30

They also have a water separation media in them as well.

Screenshot from that link;


Interesting to note that the "2 micron" filter is actually a 4 micron at 98% efficient filter but that's been discussed before about the change in specs due to something... I believe Rufus was the one with that knowledge.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2024 | 07:19 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by acdii
S&S makes the return filter kit that will scrub the fuel if the CP4 fails. However, if there is a 20 micron screen with a view bowl like the new gen 2 SPE, and it gets checked regularly plus has a low pressure cut off switch, wouldn't it accomplish pretty much the same thing?

Here's my thought on it. The S&S may keep the tank clean when the CP4 fails, but how longer before complete failure on the side of the road if there is no way to check without pulling and cutting open the filter? How long does it take to grind down the cam before it turns into fines that can get past the 20 micron screen before the cut off is triggered? If damage happens to the CP4, the first things coming out of it will be chunks of plating from the can, which will get caught by the screen and visible. So it is an early warning system, then if ignored will become a potential issue beyond.

I'm tossing the SPE vs S&S kits as my next install. I see many pros with the gen 2 kit in that is looks factory, and uses factory mounting points, and is all hard lines. They even have the return set up so no twisting of fittings, and installation is much easier and faster now.

The main pro of the S&S is the return filter, but uses hoses and I think cutting has been eliminated, but does take longer to install. It also costs more now.

Lets hear your thoughts on both kits.
And for what it's worth, you could replace the Donaldson filter/head with a SNAPP filter because the SNAPP filter can be bought with the bracket like it came from S&S with their original design for their Gen 2 kit.

I can see why they went with the 550943 filter because it has a 25 gph flow rate and the SNAPP filters have a 26 gph flow rate.

https://www.parker.com/content/dam/P..._BRO_SNAPP.pdf
 
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