So my hi pressure pump exploded. It totally came apart on my 2017 f250. Replaced all high pressure lines/hi pressure pump, pressure regulator and volume control valve. Along with tank/fuel pump and all the lines and injectors.. All these parts came from a 2020 f250 for parts. I also went as far as pulling timing cover off to make sure the crank gear did not spin on crank. Later found out that the hi pressure pump, injectors and the rail hi pressure sensor were different. Replaced them to older style. With the newer sensor, rail pressure was data monitored, it never fell below 2500psi. It just did not seem right. Went to another 2017 f250 and noticed the pressure seemed to be down around 480 to 500psi. So once I put the correct sensor in it, pressure was down around 480psi with KOEO . I am stuck with a no start condition. If I try I little either, car seems to backfire but never run. During cranking, I was noticing was the fuel volume control vavle was at 62%, fuel pressure control valve was going up to about 42% and the fuel rail pressure would never get any higher than 550 psi. The commanded pressure was 5000psi. Is the percentage on the FVCV/FPCV a % closed or open? What should it be when truck tries to command 5000 psi for start up? Any suggestions as to what I should do moving forward?


Thanks
Jim

 

@m-chan68 Can you offer some insight to guide TurboToys007!

 

Don't know all the particulars of how to fix your issues, but can tell you you should NEVER, NEVER use starting fluid in a engine with glow plugs!!!
That is why it was backfiring I imagine, and could very well break something.

 

there are lots of videos and plenty of kits designed for each year group on what to do correctly.

you apparently have the smarts to do it right....

if its worth doing.....do it correctly

 

also, you might want the moderator to move your thread to the 6.7 section. lots of good knowledgeable folks there.

nothing wrong with the 17+ section...but I dont think they are deeply mechanically inclined as you would want for this type of probelm.

 

That is not an unreasonable suggestion. Fasten your seat belts for a thread move...

 

moved to the 6.7 section. I would opt for a DCR instead of a new or used cp4

 

Just finished repairing mine for same cp4 destruction. All new pump, injectors, rails, lines, etc from injectors direct. Had tank cleaned, new fuel cooler, cleaned all the intake tubes, also replaced mass and map sensors , new throttle body, egr valve, while at it I replaced the crusty transmission lines and replaced oil in diffs tranny transfer case and engine. Also installed Airdog fuel pump and cp4 bypass from S&S.
Now it runs like a top, and no codes or cel lights, and hopefully bulletproof I only used Forscan.

 

What do think of the AirDog? I bought one, a 4G set up, know they have the 5G systems now though... never installed but still want to, will probably when I retire...

Anyways, what do think of the Air Dog? How much noise does it give off? Thanks... and good work with that big job you did...

 

Yes it’s the 5G model, only one I could find that they listed for it, its absolutely quiet no sound except for priming when waiting for glow plugs to go off, just same as the stock in-tank pump. I think it’s a better set up than stock as the water separator is independent and much easier to access. I found that the glitter from the cp4 was not only in the stock fuel “conditioner” at the tank but also in the filter on the engine, which means that the shavings were not getting filtered out, and then sent on to the filter on the engine. I question whether the stock water separator/ conditioner is a filter at all. And I always used ford oem filters.