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If you read the original post my question only deals with the springs themselves. I am fully confident with the lift itself, it was whether or not i'd get coil bind which was my main concern.
If it was a good way to lift the truck, everyone would do it. Drop the spring retainter on the frame, that's a much better way. There is a lot of forces excerted on these parts when turning. A lift block on the front of a leaf springed truck is the same principle.
thinking about it more, i see your concern on coil bind hoxii, but, it's always going to be there, when the axle flexes one coil is going to get compressed and bent into a slight U, the other side will get stretched into a slight U. (well, on a solid axle that would be the case) On a off-road only vehicle i wonter how much bind would be relieved if axle piviots were installed between the axles coil pads and the axle it's self like the pivots they have for rear leafs...
i gotta get me a test beater, and try out all this stupid crap i come up with.
I can't see any problem with using the taller stock 2wd spring pads instead of the 4wd ones, espically since Ford finds it perfectly acceptable to use them on 2wd's, and they are bolted down. I would feel much safer doing this rather than lowering the spring tower, as, if you do, you can only tie it into the side of the frame, not the bottom also like the factory did. Swapping to the 2wd pads would give the same effect as a levelling kit, with no change in spring rate.
Evan
Originally posted by 82F100SWB I can't see any problem with using the taller stock 2wd spring pads instead of the 4wd ones, espically since Ford finds it perfectly acceptable to use them on 2wd's, and they are bolted down. I would feel much safer doing this rather than lowering the spring tower, as, if you do, you can only tie it into the side of the frame, not the bottom also like the factory did. Swapping to the 2wd pads would give the same effect as a levelling kit, with no change in spring rate.
Evan
That's EXACTLY what I'm talking about. Replace the 1.5" block on the 4x4 with the 3" block from the 4x2. Now tell me, is this really going to cause the stars to fall from the sky and plagues of locusts like certain people are making it out to be? Hell, I'll even use LONGER OEM ford studs designed for this purpose (ya know, using the 3" blocks that are going to cause my truck to self destruct and have thousands of lawsuits brought against me).
Just step back, reevaluate the situation and think about it. If I can get a free inch or so then why not?
Maybe there is a reason why ford used the taller spring pads on the 2wd and not on the 4wd, and why NO lift company sells blocks to go under the coil as a method of lift.
Ford also used the taller block on the 4x2 to make up some ride height. The I beam is shorter on the 4x2 as compared to the 4x4. Springs are expensive and blocks are cheap so ford used blocks to get the 4x2 to a decent height.
you know if you ditched the crappy ttb and threw in a D60 it would lift it a nice 2-3" and spring bind would be no more. then you wouldn't need a ghetto-fabbed coil spring spacer
-jason-
Last edited by fishmanndotcom; Dec 3, 2003 at 10:24 PM.
Well I am doing it so I'll post some pics when my 4x4 conversion is done. All i need to do is rebuild my T-18 and I'll be ready to roll. If I was building a truck to attack rocks with and huge tires i'd go with a D60 in a heart beat. My intents just don't justify it (at least not yet).
I think there was some confusion because you are calling it a block. When I think of block, I think of the blocks that go under leaf springs. What your talking about is usually called a spring seat or cup. The TTB makes the truck 2" over the 2wd I-beam setup. I'm surprised to see that the 2wd uses a taller seat, I've had 2wd and 4wd and didn't notice this. Also, that would mean that the I-beam vs TTB is a 3-4" difference, are you guys sure about this?
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