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When I replaced my old MC, I had a real issue with my brakes locking up while I was driving. A large part of my daily commute is on an open highway through the desert and the locked brakes had my old truck shaking like crazy the first time it happened. I guess during that period of time, the original gas cap I had on it rattled loose and flew off somewhere out on said highway, so now I need a new gas cap. I've purchased one from Autozone and another one from LMC Truck. Neither fit. Now, I'm back to looking for something to put on there and I'm not sure of what to get. I've looked at National Parts Depot and they have a few gas caps, but they all seem to be somewhat universal, which hasn't worked out as of yet. I'm not trying to just spend money repeatedly just to wait and see if what I just bought will fit or not. If anyone has any guidance as to wher I can look to get something that may have a better chance of fitting, I'd appreciate it. Currently running with a rag stuffed into the filler neck and I'm not really liking that look. Thanks.
Thanks, Crop Duster, I went ahead and ordered one of those. Hope this one fits. It gets frustrating to get parts that are "guaranteed to fit" these trucks, just to find out that they don't.
Never had a problem with getting a vented cap locally. Can stock up here https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+tank+cap,5900 since like everything else made today have a shelf life. When they stop working (and they will) will cause running issues. Suggest you always keep a spare.
You might consider one of the locking ones. It will not rattle loose while driving, but not sure the aftermarket ones are vented, though they may fit. I went back to a genuine Ford non-locking cap, which is vented. Some members have reported drilling a tiny hole in a non-vented cap, don’t believe I’d risk doing that to a locking cap.
I got this one the other day for my 64 f250. Seems to fit nice and snug. I noticed it hissing the other day. Maybe from the heat of the day. I think they have a check valve.
That cap should work fine. To test, pucker up to the valve on the inside of the cap. You should be able to suck air in but not out. The cap is designed as to allow air in to replace the fuel as it is consumed. When these caps fail they don't allow air in and create a negative pressure in the tank which starves the fuel pump. On hot days the fuel will expand and if tank full and or parked on a tilt can overflow and leak past the gasket. The valve is not designed to let fuel out.
That cap should work fine. To test, pucker up to the valve on the inside of the cap. You should be able to suck air in but not out. The cap is designed as to allow air in to replace the fuel as it is consumed. When these caps fail they don't allow air in and create a negative pressure in the tank which starves the fuel pump. On hot days the fuel will expand and if tank full and or parked on a tilt can overflow and leak past the gasket. The valve is not designed to let fuel out.
I thought caps on these were originally vented in both directions. Let air in as fuel is used so the tank doesn't collapse or the fuel pump doesn't quit pulling fuel due to vacuum in the tank. And to let pressure out so the fuel vapors does not expand the tank or overcome the seat on the carb flooding the engine which also allowed fuel to escape when parked on a slope with a full tank.. The EPA outlawed atmosphere vented caps because of the vapors escaping into the air and required vapor tanks to collect those fumes which were burned when the engine was running. Two way vented caps are no longer available. The only "vented caps" available are one way, pull air in but not let fumes out. If you buy a vented cap you have to modify it to vent the pressure out by drilling a hole as Crop Duster said to do. The reason the fuel spray warning is on that cap is because it is a one way vent (suction) and will allow pressure to build up in the tank which if you take the cap off when pressurized it could cause fuel to rush out if tank is close to full.
I thought caps on these were originally vented in both directions. Let air in as fuel is used so the tank doesn't collapse or the fuel pump doesn't quit pulling fuel due to vacuum in the tank. And to let pressure out so the fuel vapors does not expand the tank or overcome the seat on the carb flooding the engine which also allowed fuel to escape when parked on a slope with a full tank.. The EPA outlawed atmosphere vented caps because of the vapors escaping into the air and required vapor tanks to collect those fumes which were burned when the engine was running. Two way vented caps are no longer available. The only "vented caps" available are one way, pull air in but not let fumes out. If you buy a vented cap you have to modify it to vent the pressure out by drilling a hole as Crop Duster said to do. The reason the fuel spray warning is on that cap is because it is a one way vent (suction) and will allow pressure to build up in the tank which if you take the cap off when pressurized it could cause fuel to rush out if tank is close to full.
Basically, what I said. Regardless of what was original, have never seen the need to drill a hole to vent outward pressure. Have never had a cap that was so airtight as to not let pressure out. Even new these caps will let fuel leak past the gasket if full enough to overflow due to expansion as evidenced above by cpm-m4 stating he heard hissing sound with his new cap. As far as letting fumes escape? How much pressure would need to build before even an issue? Is it even possible if tank less than completely full? Here in AZ summer truck interior temps easily triple digits, never a problem.
I changed from an aftermarket locking , vented cap to an NOS non-locking original style, also vented. That did cure the fumes I would smell in the cab after work, especially on hot days. It does apparently vent to the atmosphere as likely originally intended/permitted.
Thanks for all the input, fellas. I really appreciate it. I ordered the one recommended by Crop Duster, but am thinking about getting the one from O'Reilly's as a backup.
could someone show where to drill a hole if needed?
The one on the right is an old, vented cap. The on the left is only vented into the tank not out. If your cap has machinery in it, then drill a 1/16 hole in the middle of the check valve.
I confirmed the stant I got from orielly vents inward(sucked on it) and not outward. I'll leave it as it is unless I get fumes. I am not the OP. the check valve is some where in that yellow plastic thing. If I needed to drill it I would just throw holes straight down into the existing holes until it seamed like it was venting both ways. Man that gasket looks oblong.
Basically, what I said. Regardless of what was original, have never seen the need to drill a hole to vent outward pressure. Have never had a cap that was so airtight as to not let pressure out. Even new these caps will let fuel leak past the gasket if full enough to overflow due to expansion as evidenced above by cpm-m4 stating he heard hissing sound with his new cap. As far as letting fumes escape? How much pressure would need to build before even an issue? Is it even possible if tank less than completely full? Here in AZ summer truck interior temps easily triple digits, never a problem.
Well I bought a "vented cap" for mine to replace the original. Parts store listed it as for a 64. Turns out it was a one way vented cap, let air in but not out. And on a hot day you could hear the tank popping due to expansion. I would pull the cap off and the pressure released would almost blow the cap out of my hand. I made it a habit to loosen the cap when I got out, until I learned on here how to do the hole modification.
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