Engine swap

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Sep 28, 2024 | 11:16 AM

#46

Colton horn

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5th Wheeling

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From: College station tx

Leak

Where could this be coming from I believe its coolant.... its not.fuel for sure or oil....

Sep 28, 2024 | 11:40 AM

#47

Pikachu

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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colton horn

Where could this be coming from I believe its coolant.... its not.fuel for sure or oil

It could be the oil cooler mount to engine block gasket or the block heater where it threads into the oil cooler mount above the oil filter. Hard to tell from the video.

Sep 28, 2024 | 12:08 PM

#48

udsuth78

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From: Ponca City, OK

Yeah the oil filter housing is also half of the oil cooler assembly. You might try snugging the bolts to the block just a little, and I mean just a little. Don't want to risk breaking anything now.

Sep 29, 2024 | 08:09 PM

#49

RA101725

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Mileage on the other engine and what do we suspect happened to it? You don’t think it was just oil cooler seals that failed possibly? Was there oil in the coolant also?

Oct 11, 2024 | 04:52 PM

#50

Colton horn

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From: College station tx

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandonpdx

Mileage on the other engine and what do we suspect happened to it? You don’t think it was just oil cooler seals that failed possibly? Was there oil in the coolant also?

mileage is unknown and yes on the original engine I took out there was a oily filmy coating inside the coolant reservoir .... do another question why would I get a crank no start if I tighten the sheetmetal nut on the ipr valve but loosen it a tad and it will run until it gets way loose then will run crappy til it falls off or I tighten it back up......

Oct 11, 2024 | 05:56 PM

#51

RA101725

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That’s a good question. Even just finger tightening it will usually “fix” a no start because of it. I don’t think they have to be much tighter than an easy cinch past finger tight. It might just be a bad part.

Oct 12, 2024 | 03:01 AM

#52

udsuth78

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From: Ponca City, OK

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colton horn

Sounds like it's bad or heading that way at least. How tight you get the tin nut really shouldn't have any effect. The only reason it's recommended to only go 1/4 past hand tight is for the sake of the but not the coil. Is it an OEM part? The fakes and knockoffs are another story though. Those things have been known to do some weird crap right out of the box. BTW a Motorcraft IPR won't come in a box. It will be in a foil pouch in a plastic bag and cost you your first born or reproductive organ of your choosing.