Engine swap
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
It doesn't sound like it's going to fly apart tonight at least. How's blow by? I'd be keeping a very close eye on fluid levels for at least until you find her rhythm. I actually had an old Ford 400 out of a Bronco have a freeze plug rot clean through. I replaced it and within a day it spit it back out. Got the plumbers plug type and it spit it out. I think I ended up having to RTV around the lip then torque that plug till just before the bolt snapped to finally get it to stay put. If blow by isn't too bad and she'll hold her fluids I'd call it a win and hurry to go make an offering to the Truck Gods before they change their minds. Can't sacrifice virgins anymore cause they're extinct, or endangered at least. That leaves chicken or beer, I hear they like Popeye's but who doesn't like beer. Dealers choice I guess. Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
If I remember right it's easiest to just remove the belt and the wires to the alternator. Then just unbolt the bracket thatholr the alternator and power steering pump. It's only 4 13mm bolts and it will lay over in the battery box area without mess with PS hoses.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 49
Likes: 5
From: College station tx
Filter to frame rail fuel line
Do yall know if anyone makes a kit with like steel braided fuel lines to replace the metal filter to frame rail metal lines with a more flexible but just as strong and leak free as the metal ones that come from the factory??
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
I'm not aware of any. I'm sure the factory replacements are available from RiffRaff or somebody but nothing in a flex hose. I'd say to just measure and source some braided SS lines from wherever but the trouble your going to run into is that ******* fitting on the fuel bowl. They were a big part of my decision to delete the damn fuel bowl all together. I guess a guy could cut the steel line a few inches before the bowl fitting. Then braze a male JIC end on the tube, basically make your own adapter. Then you could run whatever you wanted.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 49
Likes: 5
From: College station tx
I'm not aware of any. I'm sure the factory replacements are available from RiffRaff or somebody but nothing in a flex hose. I'd say to just measure and source some braided SS lines from wherever but the trouble your going to run into is that ******* fitting on the fuel bowl. They were a big part of my decision to delete the damn fuel bowl all together. I guess a guy could cut the steel line a few inches before the bowl fitting. Then braze a male JIC end on the tube, basically make your own adapter. Then you could run whatever you wanted.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
You have to install a filter head somewhere between the fuel pump and the engine. Then you plumb the fuel feed directly to the rear fuel rail ports. The passenger side is plumbed to the bowl already but the drivers side has a 1/8 npt pipe plug that needs removed. At the front ports you'll tie both sides into a fuel pressure regulator. The discharge from the regulator hooks to the fuel return line and goes back to the tank. It's called regulated return with bowl delete if you want to Google it for research. There are kits available, but I thought they were way over priced so I sourced the components individually and made my own kit. I want to say the kits were around $800 and I put mine together for $250-300. The biggest expense is the regulator. You want to get a quality part, something from Aeromotive or Fuelab or whoever you trust.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 49
Likes: 5
From: College station tx
Found it!
I'm not aware of any. I'm sure the factory replacements are available from RiffRaff or somebody but nothing in a flex hose. I'd say to just measure and source some braided SS lines from wherever but the trouble your going to run into is that ******* fitting on the fuel bowl. They were a big part of my decision to delete the damn fuel bowl all together. I guess a guy could cut the steel line a few inches before the bowl fitting. Then braze a male JIC end on the tube, basically make your own adapter. Then you could run whatever you wanted.
Last edited by Colton horn; Sep 17, 2024 at 08:14 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
That would be one of them yes. That is your fuel pressure regulator housing. Should be able to rob the one from the other engine, but be careful. As you've discovered already they are FRAGILE. That's French for breaks real easy.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
If you can believe it the billet aluminum one is actually cheaper.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fpr-h...-shim-springs/
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fpr-f...ief-cap-99-03/
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fpr-h...-shim-springs/
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fpr-f...ief-cap-99-03/
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 49
Likes: 5
From: College station tx
Front axle
Yeah haha it's very fragile screw that pain in the @$$ lol finally got it fixed and the leaks all sealed up and runs pretty good so far maybe even better than the engine I pulled out was running before coolant started getting in the oil and I pulled it..... but i knew that motor wouldnt last long when i got the truck really since it had OVER 5 gallons of oil in it when i got it and had it hauled to my house where i drained a WHOLE 5 gal bucket full of oil out the oil pan to just get it into the "operating range" on the dipstick...... but anyways so I got another question what could be making a popping or clicking noise when I turn or go down a dirt road that's bumpy sometimes.... its coming from my front 4x4 axle..... could the hub going out cause it to make that type of sound? I know if the u joint goes out @ the knuckle it makes more than a clicking/popping sound...... or I guess the seals and hub both could need replaced which is probably what I will be diving into next some time this week before it really breaks and messes up more crap with the luck I seem to be having the last few months lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Ball joints will make creaking and popping noises when they go bad. It's usually only when turning the wheel at slow speeds. Like pulling in a driveway or navigating a parking lot. I assume you did verify the front hubs are unlocked.