Coffee can hookup
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
Coffee can hookup
I'm sure this is not the first time this had been asked, but I couldn't find a thread with the answer, so I apologize for the redundancy in advance.
F150 351 M, been working on resurrecting this truck after sitting for a decade and have made some significant progress thanks to the folks in this forum. I'm struggling with getting it to idle normally on its own. I hink it's got to do with lack of vacuum and/ or vacuum leak, and I think the coffee can is the culprit. The hoses are MIA, so want to replace them, but can't figure out where they go. With lack of a better term than "coffee can", I received no help from Google on the question. If anyone has a diagram (that someone without a doctorate can decipher) or pics of where the hoses go, it would be very helpful.
Thanks!
F150 351 M, been working on resurrecting this truck after sitting for a decade and have made some significant progress thanks to the folks in this forum. I'm struggling with getting it to idle normally on its own. I hink it's got to do with lack of vacuum and/ or vacuum leak, and I think the coffee can is the culprit. The hoses are MIA, so want to replace them, but can't figure out where they go. With lack of a better term than "coffee can", I received no help from Google on the question. If anyone has a diagram (that someone without a doctorate can decipher) or pics of where the hoses go, it would be very helpful.
Thanks!
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
Ok the "coffee can" is a vacuum reservoir and has nothing to do with how the motor runs unless it is the cause of a vacuum leak.
I had the can cause a vacuum leak on my truck. The bottom was full of pin holes from rust.
So that not hooked up in not the cause of it running poorly so keep looking.
If you think you have a vacuum leak get a can of carb clean with a straw and start spraying around the carb base, intake manifold to head(s), and vacuum tree where all the hoses go. If there is a leak the RPM will change and that is where the leak is.
Oh that can most of the time is to supply vacuum to HVAC controls, you have factory AC?
There should be a check valve between the vacuum supply and the can / HVAC.
When the motor is under heavy load you loose vacuum and because of that the HVAC controls move to default settings, defrost, from what ever it was set to.
Dave ----
I had the can cause a vacuum leak on my truck. The bottom was full of pin holes from rust.
So that not hooked up in not the cause of it running poorly so keep looking.
If you think you have a vacuum leak get a can of carb clean with a straw and start spraying around the carb base, intake manifold to head(s), and vacuum tree where all the hoses go. If there is a leak the RPM will change and that is where the leak is.
Oh that can most of the time is to supply vacuum to HVAC controls, you have factory AC?
There should be a check valve between the vacuum supply and the can / HVAC.
When the motor is under heavy load you loose vacuum and because of that the HVAC controls move to default settings, defrost, from what ever it was set to.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
|
Trailering
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
Ok the "coffee can" is a vacuum reservoir and has nothing to do with how the motor runs unless it is the cause of a vacuum leak.
I had the can cause a vacuum leak on my truck. The bottom was full of pin holes from rust.
So that not hooked up in not the cause of it running poorly so keep looking.
If you think you have a vacuum leak get a can of carb clean with a straw and start spraying around the carb base, intake manifold to head(s), and vacuum tree where all the hoses go. If there is a leak the RPM will change and that is where the leak is.
Oh that can most of the time is to supply vacuum to HVAC controls, you have factory AC?
There should be a check valve between the vacuum supply and the can / HVAC.
When the motor is under heavy load you loose vacuum and because of that the HVAC controls move to default settings, defrost, from what ever it was set to.
Dave ----
I had the can cause a vacuum leak on my truck. The bottom was full of pin holes from rust.
So that not hooked up in not the cause of it running poorly so keep looking.
If you think you have a vacuum leak get a can of carb clean with a straw and start spraying around the carb base, intake manifold to head(s), and vacuum tree where all the hoses go. If there is a leak the RPM will change and that is where the leak is.
Oh that can most of the time is to supply vacuum to HVAC controls, you have factory AC?
There should be a check valve between the vacuum supply and the can / HVAC.
When the motor is under heavy load you loose vacuum and because of that the HVAC controls move to default settings, defrost, from what ever it was set to.
Dave ----
Thanks, Dave! So, if the vacuum reservoir were hooked up properly, there would be a hose connected from the engine to reservoir to supply vacuum to the reservoir, and one to return it, right? I was thinking that there could be a vacuum leak wherever those hoses were connected to at the engine, assuming that they haven't already been capped or plugged. I did try to find any leaks using the carb clean spray method, but there was no change in RPM. Even if there is no possibility that the coffee can has anything to do with my truck running like crap, I'd still like to know where the hoses would connect to. Nothing wrong with a little education, right?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
The can has only 1 nipple.
There should be a Tee and if you look at this Tee the side from the motor (vacuum supply) should have a check valve so vacuum can be pulled on the can but not from can back to the motor.
The other 2 fittings on the Tee 1 goes to the can and the other to HVAC controls. Not back to the motor.
That is how it is on my 81 F100 and on anything else I have see vacuum cans used on.
Some times they are used on speed control to supply vacuum when under heavy load like the HVAC system can dose.
If you think the can or HVAC controls is a cause of a vacuum leak remove the hose to the motor and plug where it came off of so you dont have a vacuum leak there. Like I said my vacuum can had a lot of pin rust holes and caused a vacuum leak.
Dave ----
There should be a Tee and if you look at this Tee the side from the motor (vacuum supply) should have a check valve so vacuum can be pulled on the can but not from can back to the motor.
The other 2 fittings on the Tee 1 goes to the can and the other to HVAC controls. Not back to the motor.
That is how it is on my 81 F100 and on anything else I have see vacuum cans used on.
Some times they are used on speed control to supply vacuum when under heavy load like the HVAC system can dose.
If you think the can or HVAC controls is a cause of a vacuum leak remove the hose to the motor and plug where it came off of so you dont have a vacuum leak there. Like I said my vacuum can had a lot of pin rust holes and caused a vacuum leak.
Dave ----
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 633
Likes: 84
From: AL
Check and see how many turns the idle mixture screws are turned out in the carb. The 2100/2150 carbs are well known for the steel throttle shaft egging out the aluminum housing over time and sucking air. Mine were about 4 1/2 turns out and they're supposed to be around 2 1/2 turn out. Carb spray at the base of the carb will tell you this too.
Thread Starter
|
Trailering
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
The can has only 1 nipple.
There should be a Tee and if you look at this Tee the side from the motor (vacuum supply) should have a check valve so vacuum can be pulled on the can but not from can back to the motor.
The other 2 fittings on the Tee 1 goes to the can and the other to HVAC controls. Not back to the motor.
That is how it is on my 81 F100 and on anything else I have see vacuum cans used on.
Some times they are used on speed control to supply vacuum when under heavy load like the HVAC system can dose.
If you think the can or HVAC controls is a cause of a vacuum leak remove the hose to the motor and plug where it came off of so you dont have a vacuum leak there. Like I said my vacuum can had a lot of pin rust holes and caused a vacuum leak.
Dave ----
There should be a Tee and if you look at this Tee the side from the motor (vacuum supply) should have a check valve so vacuum can be pulled on the can but not from can back to the motor.
The other 2 fittings on the Tee 1 goes to the can and the other to HVAC controls. Not back to the motor.
That is how it is on my 81 F100 and on anything else I have see vacuum cans used on.
Some times they are used on speed control to supply vacuum when under heavy load like the HVAC system can dose.
If you think the can or HVAC controls is a cause of a vacuum leak remove the hose to the motor and plug where it came off of so you dont have a vacuum leak there. Like I said my vacuum can had a lot of pin rust holes and caused a vacuum leak.
Dave ----
Check and see how many turns the idle mixture screws are turned out in the carb. The 2100/2150 carbs are well known for the steel throttle shaft egging out the aluminum housing over time and sucking air. Mine were about 4 1/2 turns out and they're supposed to be around 2 1/2 turn out. Carb spray at the base of the carb will tell you this too.
I'm thinking I need to look more into the EGR Valve and see if it could be causing the problems. Don't know much about how they relate to engine performance, so any direction would be great.
Thanks for all your help!
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