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..................and check them when the engine is COLD.
+1 to this.
Another suggestion, my Dad taught me to use a piece of fuel hose pushed over the end of the spark plug. you use the hose to turn the plug, allowing you to thread it into the head. You can't put enough torque on the hose to cross thread, but enough to know that its started when you can pull the hose off.
Wow, it's amazing that poor folks who thought they actually bought a quality product are having such a problem with these heads 100k or more down the road.
Isn't this a safety issue? I mean, motor spits out plug(s), motor loses power, then some poor SOB gets rear-ended because he's going too slow, or causes a road hazard on the road.
Why isn't there a class action lawsuit or an NTSB investigation ? You can get recalls done thousands of miles after a vehicle has been out of warranty. This is ridiculous that these very expensive vehicles are having this problem and Ford won't stand behind their product, unless of course you shell out money for an extended warranty.
Wow, it's amazing that poor folks who thought they actually bought a quality product are having such a problem with these heads 100k or more down the road.
Isn't this a safety issue? I mean, motor spits out plug(s), motor loses power, then some poor SOB gets rear-ended because he's going too slow, or causes a road hazard on the road.
Why isn't there a class action lawsuit or an NTSB investigation ? You can get recalls done thousands of miles after a vehicle has been out of warranty. This is ridiculous that these very expensive vehicles are having this problem and Ford won't stand behind their product, unless of course you shell out money for an extended warranty.
Actually they did increase the # of threads and I believe 99% of the problems are caused by people not tightening a plug or 2. With 10 holes it takes some concentration and the whole job should be done with no distractions,
Another suggestion, my Dad taught me to use a piece of fuel hose pushed over the end of the spark plug. you use the hose to turn the plug, allowing you to thread it into the head. You can't put enough torque on the hose to cross thread, but enough to know that its started when you can pull the hose off.
What I do is spray some sticky adhesive in the socket and tape the socket onto an extension, that way I can start it by spinning the extension by hand.
Wow, it's amazing that poor folks who thought they actually bought a quality product are having such a problem with these heads 100k or more down the road.
Isn't this a safety issue? I mean, motor spits out plug(s), motor loses power, then some poor SOB gets rear-ended because he's going too slow, or causes a road hazard on the road.
Why isn't there a class action lawsuit or an NTSB investigation ? You can get recalls done thousands of miles after a vehicle has been out of warranty. This is ridiculous that these very expensive vehicles are having this problem and Ford won't stand behind their product, unless of course you shell out money for an extended warranty.
Because the problem is caused by the users, or the incompetent mechanics they employed.
..Why isn't there a class action lawsuit or an NTSB investigation ? You can get recalls done thousands of miles after a vehicle has been out of warranty. This is ridiculous that these very expensive vehicles are having this problem and Ford won't stand behind their product, unless of course you shell out money for an extended warranty.
Why does everyone think litigation is the only answer?
I would ask anyone who purchased a V-8 or V-10 2V engine if they did their homework ahead of time. The spark plug blowout issue is well documented. It isn't something that was discovered 6 months ago. The precautions (to avoid the issue) and repair procedure (to fix the issue when you ignore the precautions) are all well documented and all over the internet.
That link will take you to 12,000 web sites discussing the issue. Given that, how could someone NOT know this is an issue with that generation of engine and find out what they need to do to prevent the problem in the first place?
Why does everyone think litigation is the only answer?
That link will take you to 12,000 web sites discussing the issue. Given that, how could someone NOT know this is an issue with that generation of engine and find out what they need to do to prevent the problem in the first place?
Couldn't agree more. I've had 2 Ford Trucks and both have been prone to this issue. AND, I was reasonably confident that I could deal with it if it happened. AND (more importantly) replacing of the plugs was first on my list BOTH times, that way I know they were done right. To date, no issues.
I agree with all the above and I firmly believe 99% of plug failures are caused by failing to tighten them all and failing to tighten them right. With 10 cylinders the stakes are raised and you can't just go to lunch in the middle of changing plugs, then come back and say; hmmm, now where did I leave off.
Although I would also agree with the fact that the majority of cases could be due to incorrect spark plug installation (I bought my truck from someone else who could have changed the plugs or had the plugs changed) that does not change the fact that this happens most frequently with these engines (mine is the 5.4L). That in itself is a problem. I realize that car manufacturers can't predict poor or inadequate repairs done on their vehicles but I would question the fact that this particularly affects Triton engines. Also, I realize that researching a vehicle before purchase should be an obvious step before buying a vehicle but saying that if one searches the internet they should see this problem and the correct procedure for fixing it thereby correcting the issue before it begins is a bit of a cop-out. I take the blame for not researching the truck before purchasing it used but changing the plugs immediately upon purchasing a used vehicle is not part of my normal practice. The fact that I put two years worth of driving on these plugs that could have been installed incorrectly before one actually blew out seems suspicious.
The fact remains that this problem happens most frequently with their Triton engines and the problem should have been addressed if for nothing else but to protect their image. I say this is similar to the infamous fender rot that I am also experiencing. One could argue that a potential buyer could investigate this problem and realize that if they simply do not drive in the winter thereby avoiding salt they could possibly avoid this problem. Or they could apply some kind of undercoating protection prior to driving it. This is not realistic and the responsibility should not fall on the owner. Again, the spark plug issue would be different if it was not such a prevalent issue with these particular engines as is the fender rot. Just my 2 cents...
100k on a car is a lot of miles before running into issues so I'm not necessarily faulting them as if they sold lemons. I find it strange that they do not address such issues properly when they crop up so that they don't affect later model vehicles.
Ford changed the factory torque-down procedures, as well as the number of threads, so they DID recognize and fix the problem.
December 1996 - 4.6L 4V alignment feature added
February 1997 - 4.6L 2V head alignment feature added
September 2000 - WEP (Windsor Engine Plant) 2V head alignment feature modified (4.6/5.4/6.8)
November 2002 - WEP introduced long thread heads on 2V (all)
May 2003 - REP (Romeo Engine Plant) introduced long-thread heads on 4V 4.6 and 5.4
November 2003 - REP introduced long-thread heads on 2V and modified alignment feature
In 1999, and 2001, an interim fix was done for a cross-threading issue.
Original process:
Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down), monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 0-360 degrees.
New process (addressed the possibility of applying installation torque for more than 25 degrees of rotation)
Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down) start monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 3-25 degrees.
Another action to address cross-threading was the addition of an alignment feature to lead the plug into the hole.
I stand corrected on them addressing the spark plug problem. Thanks Krewat for the information. The funny thing is that does not bother me as much as the rusting issue. At least I can fix the spark plug problem. I cannot seem to find a good solution for it. As far as a know this problem still exists. But I could be wrong about this one as well...
Rust, well, that's a tough one. I live in the salt-belt, and have SOME rust underneath the cab, just starting at the edges of panels. I need to get underneath and fix it with POR or some other rust converter.
But, it's also 11 years old. No rust on cosmetic areas whatsoever.
2002 ford expedition 4.6l triton V8
had it out all day thursday stop and go for good 6 hours maybe 8... friday, hop in goto local store, get refund, leave. total time vehicle was off.. 10 minutes.. started... POP! then continuous popping...
now two things that happened in the days before this popped that i didnt notice if anyone else commented on in this forum but did see a post on in another forum...
i had some sluggish response time the last week if even that, usually the truck runs great all of a sudden it was hesitant... figured it was the fact my oil change was .. well a couple k overdue..
another poster said something about different oil pressures and perhaps that assisted in the blow out.. i tried calling my regular mechanic for a few days prior to getting the oil change at one of those quick shop dealys on thursday.. now that doesnt change the fact that the engine was sluggish before hand.
still trying to find a helicoil kit, hurray for weekend (happened at 330pm friday afternoon, tow home by 430, 515 by the time i finally realized the damn coil was separated from its mounting point)
still my favorite vehicle ive EVER owned...
will i buy a ford again.. HELL YES
thats what ive been reading as well, local shop has one for 65 bucks but suggests that his mechanic can fix it and thats the best option i his opinion, call is into the mechanic well see what he quotes, so far from the posts ive read ill be almost better off buying the full kit my self for when the next one decides to jump out.. ps.. i cant see the spark plug, i tried looking down the hole but even with my cell phone camera/light dont see it.. coil was broken from it mounting point but still in the hole... i dunno...
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