I have a 1951 Ford F1
A little background, got the truck working but it would grind everytime I would shift gears. I started out with the easiest check and adjusted the clutch. After a lot of work on that I finally decided to change the clutch. I put in a new clutch, throw out bearing and had the flywheel turned. Once I got it all back together it still stays engaged even when the pedal is to the floor. I looked in the window and do see the throw out bearing pushing on the fingers of the pressure plate but it doesn't seem to disengage the clutch disc. Any ideas on what I did wrong?

 

Welcome to the forum! From the sounds of things, at first glance is sounds like you still need more adjustment on the clutch. Assuming your parts are correct and are installed correctly, it seems the most logical place to start. Especially if you have the same symptoms with new and old clutches. The TO bearing may be pushing on the fingers, but possibly not far enough.

 

I have adjusted the clutch for the spec amount of free play then even did it some more to where there is almost no free play and still the same symptoms. I got the clutch kit from Rockauto it is the 11 in by Perfection. I can see the TO bearing travel as much as it can. Adjusting any more and the TO bearing will be touching the pressure plate even when the pedal is out. I am wondering if in replacing the clutch I either made the same mistake as the previous owner or the problem is somewhere other than the clutch though I have no idea what else it could be.

 

Any chance the disc was put in backwards?
If you have an 11" clutch, I assume you have the non-synchro 4-speed? Some grinding is to be expected if so.

 

What transmission do you have? A stock 4 speed has no synchros and needs to be "double clutched", and to the uninitiated it may seem like the clutch isn't working right and they'll be a lot of gear grinding if not shifted properly.

 

It is the 4 speed (I assume stock). I tried to double clutch it however, it is up on jack stands so I can see that the drive shaft is turning when in gear but clutch all the way to the floor. When transmission is in neutral the drive shaft will slow down and stop so I know that the clutch is not fully disengaged.
If the plate was installed backwards would that have these same symptoms? It didn't came marked with flywheel side so I could have installed it backwards but if I turn it around I have a 50/50 chance of making it wrong. Is there a way to determine which side is the flywheel side?
By the way I learned from other threads on this forum before I started this so thanks to everyone who helped me get this far.

 

One end of the clutch disk splined hub is longer. I forget if it goes flywheel side or pressure plate side. Someone will know.

 

Short side of the disc hub goes to the flywheel. You might be able to see it through the inspection opening.

 

I have the crashbox in my F-2.

I installed a new clutch a while back and had to add to the threaded adjustment shaft.

Do you have the correct oil? When I installed my clutch I filled the transmission from the top, took the shift out and poured it down the opening. Gears would grind. I then got ambitious, raised the truck up and pulled the fill plug out and left the oil drain out and it shifted fine.

Double clutching is about timing, if you don't pump the pedal you're going to grind gears unless you can time the engine speed and the speed of the truck. Having it up on jack stands might not be giving it the correct resistance you would get with the truck on the road moving.

 

Don't forget the pilot bearing/bushing inspection and fit. Too tight or stuck will give you these symptoms. A bit of lubrication is needed.

 

On the disc hub, the springs protrude more to one side than the other, the side that protrudes goes towards the pressure plate, away from the flywheel.

 

One more thought, I'd bet this isn't the problem but it's worth checking.

I installed a new clutch kit in my F-2 and all worked fine until I had about 75 miles on it and I could feel a vibration. I was going to a show and was almost there so I got to the show but on the way back the vibration got worse. I barely made it home. I looked inside the opening and saw a spring jammed in between the disc and the plate. I pulled the trans mission out and found two springs jammed up. I had to buy the same clutch kit from O'Reilly's, I think the same brand you used. Installed it and have over 3000 miles on it without a problem.

I'm thinking maybe there is something wrong with the pressure plate or disc. Maybe with pulling the transmission to check everything over. F-1 transmissions are a lot easier to pull and reinstall that the beast in an F-2. I've done both.

 

Did you by chance compare the new TO bearing to the old one? I've seen this happen in other vehicles where the new TOB is either shorter or longer that the old one.

 

I tried running the truck on the ground and even with the clutch pedal to the floor, it is not disengaging. I tried starting it with the clutch to the floor and it in reverse (I had clearance behind the truck if it lurched) and it was in gear, not even a little slipping of the clutch.
The TO bearing is right at the edge of the pressure plate so having a longer adjustment would mean that it is engaging the clutch even without pressing the pedal so I don't want to lengthen the adjustment.
I visually checked the TO bearing to the old one and it looked the same however, there could be a slight difference in thickness but I would think that adjusting the pedal would account for that.
As for vibration, when I started the truck the first time it did seem to have a greater vibration than before I messed with the clutch but thought that it was just the spinning of the new components that would go away after a few clutch engagements. (Spinning at high speed would cause it to self center on the trans shaft).
I looked to see if I installed it backwards but only being able to see one side, I am not sure I have the longer side on the pressure plate side.
At this point I am taking everything apart to check it all and see if I can figure something out.
I will post again when I get that done. The temperature here is expected to be in the 100's during the day so I may be waiting a few days before I get it all done.

 

Lengthening the rod would make the clutch disengage even farther. That's what I did with the F-2 and have had problems in three plus miles.

I'd bet once you have it apart you'll find something. Good luck.