Clutch or not
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 28
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From: South Carolina
Clutch or not
How do you know when the clutch is bad or its just the operator? Im 99.9 percent sure its me, just started driving the ‘50 F3 with 4 speed spur nonsychnized.
But, it grinds going into 2nd when dead stopped. And shakes like a washing machine starting off in 2nd and reverse.
Im new to this tranny which I know is a different beast but I have plenty of experience driving other manuals.
But, it grinds going into 2nd when dead stopped. And shakes like a washing machine starting off in 2nd and reverse.
Im new to this tranny which I know is a different beast but I have plenty of experience driving other manuals.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 687
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At hot idle, with the trans warm, the gears should spin down slow enough to engage without grinding after 2-3 seconds upon disengagement of the clutch. When cold, it should be pretty much immediate. The diagnostic question would be, at what point in the pedal travel does the clutch engage? If it's near the floor, then it could be dragging, causing your issue. A sticky pilot bearing can do this also. As far as the shudder goes, if it's an old clutch, the facings could have oil on them or the pressure plate and/or flywheel are heat checked/polished. Might be time to pull it apart to inspect.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 367
From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
Make sure the free travel is set right if there is no adjustment left the clutch may be done
You can double clutch it and if the clutch is working that will fix your grinding issue, as long as you do it right.
You can double clutch it and if the clutch is working that will fix your grinding issue, as long as you do it right.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,907
Likes: 763
From: Hillsborough NJ
I’m just learning to drive a spur gear as well. As a comparison, mine takes a second or two to be ready to hit second gear after hitting the clutch. If I’m too quick, it will grind, but if I’m patient, it will just vibrate a bit on the way into gear, the clutch gives a little shake when starting up, but nothing I’m concerned about.
i think it’s a learning process. Back in the day a good driver knew how to negotiate a spur gear tranny, and a bad driver crashed gears.
i think it’s a learning process. Back in the day a good driver knew how to negotiate a spur gear tranny, and a bad driver crashed gears.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 687
Likes: 80
At what point in the clutch pedal travel does the clutch begin to engage? This is an important question to answer if we are to narrow down the possibilities.
In your original post it would "shake like a washing machine". Now it's a "little shake". Which is it?
In your original post it would "shake like a washing machine". Now it's a "little shake". Which is it?
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2020
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From: South Carolina
[QUOTE=Steve;19441860]At what point in the clutch pedal travel does the clutch begin to engage? This is an important question to answer if we are to narrow down the possibilities.
In your original post it would "shake like a washing machine". Now it's a "little shake". Which is it?[/QUOTE
That was Bob that said his was a “little shake”. Not I.
Gabe
In your original post it would "shake like a washing machine". Now it's a "little shake". Which is it?[/QUOTE
That was Bob that said his was a “little shake”. Not I.
Gabe
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 687
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Sounds about right to allow full release of the clutch. As mentioned above is the trans full of the correct oil?
One test would be to gently push the shifter (at idle) so the 2nd gear is just making contact with the cluster. Gently- so you can just feel it through the shifter.
Then push the clutch pedal to the floor and get a feel for how clean the disengagement is by how long it takes to spin down.
Clutch shudder is super annoying. If you ever do tear it dwn, investigate the possibiliy of usinng a diaphragm style pressure plate as opposed to the 3-finger style. The diaphragm covers work so much better. A custom built one if it were to come to that is worth it in my opinion.
The shudder could also be loose or worn engine or trans mounts too- pretty easy to check that.
One test would be to gently push the shifter (at idle) so the 2nd gear is just making contact with the cluster. Gently- so you can just feel it through the shifter.
Then push the clutch pedal to the floor and get a feel for how clean the disengagement is by how long it takes to spin down.
Clutch shudder is super annoying. If you ever do tear it dwn, investigate the possibiliy of usinng a diaphragm style pressure plate as opposed to the 3-finger style. The diaphragm covers work so much better. A custom built one if it were to come to that is worth it in my opinion.
The shudder could also be loose or worn engine or trans mounts too- pretty easy to check that.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2020
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From: South Carolina
I know downshifting requires matching engine and tranny rpms.
i think Im not reving the engine RPMs high enough. Does it require quite a high rev?
Thank everyone for the info. I will check transmission oil tomorrow.
i think Im not reving the engine RPMs high enough. Does it require quite a high rev?
Thank everyone for the info. I will check transmission oil tomorrow.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 645
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If you are considering a trans oil change, Lucas Oil make an excellent gear oil for non-synchronized heavy duty transmissions. They also have an oil stabilizer that works well. https://lucasoil.com/products/gear-oil
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,907
Likes: 763
From: Hillsborough NJ
it depends on speed, but I find it takes very little, just a touch on the gas. The key is to anticipate the RPM the engine will be at after the shift, and match that.