So I just removed my turbo on my truck to do pedestal seals I ordered from Clay, of course I was like a kid on Christmas when I got the box today got another sticker and a pen which was pretty cool. So headed out to the garage to give the old girl some tlc. Was having a hell of a time getting the passenger side nut, so I took off the ebpv and got a 15mm crow foot on it gave it a couple kisses with my impact and bam busted loose. So I wanted to put it out there for anyone struggling. I also found that one of my ebpv bolts is missing and thinking that could be contributing to a boost leak have to tap the threads and pray it accepts the bolt. Also I trust Clay but I also want to double check with the torque specs 18ftlbs turbo to pedestal and 18ftlbs pedestal to block for obs, 36ftlbs and 18ftlbs for 99 and up? Also what's the torque spec for collector to turbo? I bought a gasket from Clay for that also.





 

Did you say you used a impact on a crows foot? Man that is an interesting tool combo, but if it works it works.

I don't have a fancy Garrett turbo like yall so I can't help with specs on that, but Clay's pretty spot on with his specs normally.

 

I've used both a 15mm crowsfoot and a 12 pt 15mm 3/8" dr box wrench to get those snail nuts loose. Add a 6" wobble extension and breaker bar.
Full set of 3/8" dr box wrenches are pricey, but when you need them!
3/8 dr metric set

 

well got her all back in I did what Clint Allen suggested and used rtv with the orings so I'm letting it set before I start it to see if I have a Geyser. Replaced pedestal and block o rings, collector gasket with one from RiffRaff and bought the boot kit. I was about to go get those actually lol.
I want to state the wiring is not my doing and I'm planning on redoing it all

 

sure did, I was nervous but I just tapped it about a 1/8th of a turn then reset and turn another 1/8th turn until it came off.

 

Noticing your picture, u may know this but your exhaust probe is on your down pipe and when you are monitoring temps take into account where your probe is located. From my understanding, you should only read 900 ish degrees max no more. If located on the manifold than 1200 degrees is the max for a limited amount of time of course. My exhaust probe is located on my down pipe also which I need to relocate just been putting it off.

Others please chime in if I'm wrong here .

 

nope you are absolutely right. I live in the rust belt so the thought of me drilling into rusted manifold has me nervous of all the potential issues like cracking, ect also juat procrastination. so I'm planning getting new manifolds and then drilling and tapping it in and fixing it then. Before my endeavor the last 2 days the hottest I've ever gotten the egt where it's at now is 600 700 so I will definitely keep and eye on that. That's the part I wasn't sure on is was the critical temp the same or was it less?