Fuel Tank Locking Ring
It acts like the ring has shrunk, like it's too small to fully seat on the threads. I get the end of the thread started, then force down the opposite side, and get about a half turn on it and it pops out again.
I tried grinding a chamfer all the way around the inside bottom of the ring (below the first thread) to try to make it easier to pop on. I even tried to cut a small amount of chamfer on the tank itself, just above the threads, and without intruding in the gasket area. Neither of those things worked. Nor did applying some Tri-Flow grease to the threads.
I went and got a new stock ring from the dealer, an the chance that maybe the original shrank, or that maybe they updated the design to accommodate this problem. Got it home and it is exactly the same part, exactly the same size, no evidence of shrinkage on the old part. Spent another hour with that one.
Tomorrow I am picking up a Dorman ring from NAPA. Fortunately only $14. If that doesn't work I may take another stab at cutting larger and more precise chamfers on the original.
Maybe with another person helping me I can be able to put enough downforce and turning force on it simultaneously, but at the moment I am not optimistic.
Anyone have any tricks or ideas?
It acts like the ring has shrunk, like it's too small to fully seat on the threads. I get the end of the thread started, then force down the opposite side, and get about a half turn on it and it pops out again.
I tried grinding a chamfer all the way around the inside bottom of the ring (below the first thread) to try to make it easier to pop on. I even tried to cut a small amount of chamfer on the tank itself, just above the threads, and without intruding in the gasket area. Neither of those things worked. Nor did applying some Tri-Flow grease to the threads.
I went and got a new stock ring from the dealer, an the chance that maybe the original shrank, or that maybe they updated the design to accommodate this problem. Got it home and it is exactly the same part, exactly the same size, no evidence of shrinkage on the old part. Spent another hour with that one.
Tomorrow I am picking up a Dorman ring from NAPA. Fortunately only $14. If that doesn't work I may take another stab at cutting larger and more precise chamfers on the original.
Maybe with another person helping me I can be able to put enough downforce and turning force on it simultaneously, but at the moment I am not optimistic.
Anyone have any tricks or ideas?
I also fought this ring the first time around on the H&H mod. Had the tank out last weekend to clean it out, knew what to expect and on she went.
I used a hot air gun on the ring to get it back on. Heat it up it expands and fits on. Also heard of guys putting it into hot water. Same effect.
It is a biatch tight.
First one I messed with a couple years ago, I'd read up on here about it with the H&H and I was expecting a pain.
Surprised me it just spun right on. I thought why all the fuss about these.
Then I removed it one more time, I think to check that my new pickup was at the bottom of the tank good, and it fought me for an hour or so.
A little heat might be just the ticket.
I should have mentioned that I tried using a heat gun. Although, I didn't get too aggressive with it. Now that I have a backup ring, I'm less concerned about damaging the original.
I'm also going to try it again this morning now that the tank's been sitting out in cold air all night. I might even put small bags of ice around the opening for a bit.
The rings were surprisingly cheap. The OEM one from Ford was only $22, and they had it overnight. The Dorman one is only $13.50. I'm so far beyond caring about that kind of money! The neighbor kids have been learning some new words, if you know what I mean.
The Dorman one is also white plastic, as opposed to the OEM rings, which are black and appear to be glass-filled nylon. Maybe the Dorman one might have a little more give to it. I'd like to make the OEM work, if possible, but we'll see.
Thanks again.
I was at the point of thinking I should put a little petroleum jelly on the threads but it finally went. Heat and lube maybe? Good luck keep us posted
I was at the point of thinking I should put a little petroleum jelly on the threads but it finally went. Heat and lube maybe? Good luck keep us posted
Trending Topics
Essential to the job of both removing it and especially tightening it was this strap wrench I got for $13 at Home Depot:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-24...117125#overlay
Thanks again everyone for your suggestions.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I know I was pretty frustrated the first go around as you hold your tongue just the right way and say a prayer just to be told “nope… not this time”
Ken
😬😬😬!!
will follow up with the outcome!
I struggled for hours as well. Then popped in here and got the news. So I did as Bigb did, put the ring out in the hot sunshine and the tank in a cool place. Easy peasy.
The bag of ice idea sounds great! I'd be on the lookout for any condensation that drips into the tank.
- towel over fuel tank opening
- bag of ice from the store laid over top for 15 mins
- warmed lock ring to 180F in the oven (also had a hotpad that I plugged in by the truck to keep it warm until I was ready to use it
- Removed ice
- installed sender assembly
- Quickly picked up hot lock ring
- Threaded on with zero trouble















