360 rebuild
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360 rebuild
I have a 1966 352 and a 1979 360 sitting in my garage(both run). I am about to venture into a rebuild. My plans were to build the 360 into a 390 and possibly increase the bore considerably.
What would be a good combination of machining, parts, and have something that is still easy on the pocketbook.
Im interested in all ideas so let me know what you think.
Is there a difference between the 352 and 360 heads?
Justin27
What would be a good combination of machining, parts, and have something that is still easy on the pocketbook.
Im interested in all ideas so let me know what you think.
Is there a difference between the 352 and 360 heads?
Justin27
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From: Charlotte
Hmm...good question. I am a novice mech. as well. I will be interested in reading the replies. FordboyPete and RatSmoker are 2 of the best posters and should see and reply soon on this.
As far as the 360, I understand all you need to do is replace the crank and rods to make it a 390. I have a 360 that I am going to do the same thing. I think I can get the block machined for $200, get a rebuild kit for about the same. You can use the same heads on the 360 for the 390. I would add adjustable rockers, mild cam, Edelbrock Performer intake. Lots of goodies to be had. Tough timing chain. Probably build for less than a grand but low ball, you can just do the crank and rods and keep it stock for very cheap.
As far as the 360, I understand all you need to do is replace the crank and rods to make it a 390. I have a 360 that I am going to do the same thing. I think I can get the block machined for $200, get a rebuild kit for about the same. You can use the same heads on the 360 for the 390. I would add adjustable rockers, mild cam, Edelbrock Performer intake. Lots of goodies to be had. Tough timing chain. Probably build for less than a grand but low ball, you can just do the crank and rods and keep it stock for very cheap.
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From: KS
The only differance between the heads that I know of would be the Thermo reactor (? Smog crap) plumbing above the spark plugs on the newer heads. If you want to do the '79 heads and get rid of that extra tubing, there is a guy in Calif that makes plugs to replace it. I bought a set for my '76 360 and it sure beat all the money I spent at ACE trying to find something that "sort of" fit. They ran $16 + S&H and were easy to replace after bolt cutters got rid of the old plumbing. I didn't have my "sawz-all" yet.LOL
Oh yeah, the newer one should have the hardened valve seats already too I think.
Oh yeah, the newer one should have the hardened valve seats already too I think.
Hotshot
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From: south louisiana
If you want a 390 crank, I've got 2 for sale, both are std/std and can be run as is after polishing --- $65 each + shipping. Use the 390 heads, they've got hardened seats. Get an aluminum intake , my favorite is the Ford 428PI or 427MR intake. Edelbrock Performer RPM or Blue thunder is next. Cam can be anything from 270 degree X .525 lift to 290 degree X .550. Get headers. pistons don't have to be forged, the cast or hypereutectics work fine. stock rods are also OK.
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baddad457, what would you think S+H would be into az for the 390 crank? I am pulling a favor with a friend and getting the 360 heads worked and currently looking for my best options on who to take the block to. anyone have any input on the pros and cons on bore size, how large would be acceptable for a "daily driver"
As far as the smog equipment goes I have none on the engine in the truck, or the one Im tearing down right now. Mabe because its an AZ truck to begin with?
Thanks for the response, It all helps!
Justin27
As far as the smog equipment goes I have none on the engine in the truck, or the one Im tearing down right now. Mabe because its an AZ truck to begin with?
Thanks for the response, It all helps!
Justin27
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From: south louisiana
Best overbore will be determined by how thick the walls are and how far it takes to clean up the bore. Some blocks will go 30 at best, some up to 60 or 80. Shipping to Phoenix via UPS on an 80lb crank ( I think this weight is fairly accurate and I don't know your exact zip) is about $58
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From: Iowa
my 390 is bored .60 over and the machone shop that did it said it could go as far as .90 over without hurting anything but im not sure if i could believe that so i went with the .60 over with forged aluminum dished eyebrow pistons, 9.5 to 1 compression ratio, he 390 is a 73, the heads are 352 factory 4v with matchign 352 4v intake, i am having new hardened seets and valves and the heads are getting ported, high performance cam, 750 holley carb, electronic ignition, headers, i am currently building this right now, when im done im hoping to have over 350 hp and hopefully over 400 fpt but im not sure how it will end up, good luck with your rebuild, i also have a 360 block just rebuilt less than 5,000 miles ago, one head may be cracked im not sure im pulling them off today, to inspect what the heads are like and if it was bored out or not, i also have a 73 390 2 barrell intake manifold and 73 390 heads, needs new valves and seets, and i also have the stock cam out of a 73 390, i also a few more parts id have to look so if anyone needs any of these parts shoot me an offer, there cheap.
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From: south louisiana
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baddad457
I tried to acces your e-mail address and cant figure it out. IS there something that im missing?... It looks like the address is removed for security reasons.. am I supposed to get it from another location. Ill try to go back and see if I missed something.
I tried to acces your e-mail address and cant figure it out. IS there something that im missing?... It looks like the address is removed for security reasons.. am I supposed to get it from another location. Ill try to go back and see if I missed something.
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I think ive decided to go ahead and rebuild the existing 360 and use a performance cam. I might use the 352 heads I have also after I have them worked over. Am I going down a useless road with the 352 heads? will that increase the pressure enough to matter? would it be too much? dont want to spin my wheels...\\
I am considering more than an "RV" cam but dont know when to stop. Dont know enough about cams, or if it would interfear with the operation of the tranny ( C6 )
I am considering more than an "RV" cam but dont know when to stop. Dont know enough about cams, or if it would interfear with the operation of the tranny ( C6 )
Hotshot
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From: south louisiana
Those 352 heads have the same ports and valves as a 390. You should look for performance on a par with a 351W does with aftermarket heads. The old 352HP motor in 1960 was rated at 360 hp. Yours should do as much. As far as cam, I wouldn't go more than a .525 lift and 280 degree duration. The Crane Energizer that i used in my 68 merc's 390 would also be a good choice ( .523 lift and 272 degree duration) You can pick one up thru Summit racing for $130 ( cam & lifters) This cam works fine with the stock C-6 in the Merc.
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The way I understand it is a 1960 352 was pushing 360 hp? that seems like alot for a stock motor. If that is similar to what Ill have, Sounds good to me. Sounds like since I have a good set of 360 heads already I should just go ahead and use them instead of the 352 heads, unless I misunderstood.
Thankyou for the offer on the 390 crank.
Thankyou for the offer on the 390 crank.
Hotshot
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From: south louisiana
Your 360 heads aren't that much different than the 352 heads. Valves are the same size, ports are a little different. If your 360 heads are OK then, yes don't spend the bucks on rebuilding the 352 heads.