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Brake pad recommendations?

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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 04:27 AM
  #1  
GGALLIN1776's Avatar
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Brake pad recommendations?

Is there any particular brand/material you'd recommend for an '03 F250 5.4L SD 4X4?

Bought whatever "gold option" autozone (was in a hurry, otherwise wouldn't have gone there) had last time when doing the fronts & couple hundred miles later they're toast.

I don't tow at all or brake aggressively yet they're completely cooked.
The wear indicator noise began last week & roughly 20 miles later began to lose pedal (bear in mind every component was replaced in '23). Autobone is sticking to the "Just Say No" reply in regards to warranty replacement these days.

No clue if they're semi or full metallic, box is gone & stores are claiming "full metallic are no longer sold", however I think they're confusing the term with organic asbestos pads. During installation, they did rust immediately after being hit with brake kleen which felt just a bit foreboding.

Anyways, would ceramics be a good option? Full metallic if I can find them? I've heard ceramic is great for cars, no clue about medium duty trucks.

Brand wise, I'm open to anything which won't break the bank of a lowly pauper😄 I have a feeling my registration is getting revoked soon as I've failed emissions twice after delegating the exhaust manifold work to a shop (big mistake despite the necessity), regardless still need to stop reliably.

If I manage an emmisions exemption & can keep the truck, can't deal with blowing through brakes that quickly, especially with only light driving to P.T. & groceries 3X/week.

I'm know quality overall has diminished in the replacement part(s) world but this is insane.

On prior trucks I was not kind to those brakes, yet they lasted the life of the vehicle....that being a few years until the state wouldn't renew my registration due to not being able to pass emissions thanks to cat thieves.

Might have to switch to a moped & hope I don't disappear into the potholes😄 The "paved roads" are worse than the dirt trail up to the local lake.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by GGALLIN1776
Bought whatever "gold option" autozone (was in a hurry, otherwise wouldn't have gone there) had last time when doing the fronts & couple hundred miles later they're toast.

they're completely cooked.

The wear indicator noise began last week & roughly 20 miles later began to lose pedal (bear in mind every component was replaced in '23).

During installation, they did rust immediately after being hit with brake kleen which felt just a bit foreboding.
Not super clear what you're saying. Sounds like you bought the same brake pads that had just lasted many miles ("had last time"), and they "failed" within two hundred miles. But you also report "losing pedal" which would not be a worn brake pad problem. Also, by the words, you sprayed the pads with Brakleen. You're not supposed to do that.

Have you looked at the pads? Sounds like you heard some noise and have a sinking pedal (if that's what losing pedal means) and have assumed it's the pads. Might be something else.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2024 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BareBonesXL
Not super clear what you're saying. Sounds like you bought the same brake pads that had just lasted many miles ("had last time"), and they "failed" within two hundred miles. But you also report "losing pedal" which would not be a worn brake pad problem. Also, by the words, you sprayed the pads with Brakleen. You're not supposed to do that.

Have you looked at the pads? Sounds like you heard some noise and have a sinking pedal (if that's what losing pedal means) and have assumed it's the pads. Might be something else.

Yes, on other vehicles I've owned no issue. Last time I had to do brakes prior to owning this truck was 2019.
This time around, they wore down FAST. Maybe weight is a contributing factor, I'm not sure. Just trying to find out what material/brand would be ideal when I change them.

I'm not 100% sure on the pedal causation but no leaks, etc that I can find. It was only for a fraction of a second but near the end of travel, sudden mush, let off & then was able to stop.
Aside from the master cylinder & booster, when I did the brakes, I replaced everything.

No choice but to use brake kleen, the pads got a dab of antiseize on them during installation, happens sometimes.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2024 | 12:08 AM
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From: The OC
Wagner Thermoquiet
 
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Old Aug 29, 2024 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by lv2race
Wagner Thermoquiet
Cool, I'll give em a go👍
 
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Old Aug 29, 2024 | 01:47 AM
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Scotty recommends akebono ceramic

 
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Old Aug 29, 2024 | 08:06 AM
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As a general rule I usually choose Ford or Motorcraft parts. Especially for brake parts.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/br...-brsd756?pdp=y
 
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Old Aug 29, 2024 | 05:25 PM
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Porterfield R4S holding fine on my 96 dually.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2024 | 05:49 AM
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I am partial to Ford pads
They make two sets
Factory Ford new original pads that are around 125.00 or their Motorcraft brand that are about 55.00
I believe your calipers are sticking is the cause of the premature wear
Back when your truck was new, we used to overhaul about 30 calipers a week at the dealer I worked for
Ford made 2 different pistons and some isolator pads for us to use
Switching back to a metal piston fixed them
 
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Old Sep 2, 2024 | 07:12 AM
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GGALLIN1776's Avatar
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From: CT
Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
I am partial to Ford pads
They make two sets
Factory Ford new original pads that are around 125.00 or their Motorcraft brand that are about 55.00
I believe your calipers are sticking is the cause of the premature wear
Back when your truck was new, we used to overhaul about 30 calipers a week at the dealer I worked for
Ford made 2 different pistons and some isolator pads for us to use
Switching back to a metal piston fixed them
I'm 99% sure these are reman Ford units sold as new. All the same markings (just worn from maybe a wire wheel), etc as the originals I pulled off. Rears are raybestos with some bad chrome looking finish but went right in with no grief. I think they're called "salt, snow & sand" something like that.

Since you mention it, odd thing is the driver side appeared to have some sort of isolator over the pistons yet all the rest I checked were missing it. I'll have to check the material & see what I'm dealing with.

What was the procedure then, hone, new pistons & seals?

I'd go to the dealer or atleast a respectable parts bin, but the Ford dealer moved 25 miles away around '04-'05, closest choices are a.z., pepboys & O'Reilly. Napa looks open but hasn't been open since the 90s.

Took a few heated arguments with the a.z. circus to get functional units. I'd get a set with torn seals right out of the box, some looked like they were purchased then installed improperly & just put back on the shelf once returned (snapped bleeders, etc). One had a piston missing a chunk.

I'd get there as soon as the doors were supposed to be open & return defects so hopefully good parts would come from the hub by noon.
Walk back up with my parts cart after calling each time to confirm they were in, either they never actually showed up or the noon "guarantee" turned to "We can't take the time to check everything just for your parts, come back an hour before close".

Add in sending them to the wrong store, what a headache. Couple times I refused to leave the spot at the counter until they sent a runner to fetch what was missing, that register would stay closed until the right thing was done.
Probably not the most rational response, but I got tired of walking covered in driveway grime & sweat only to meet failure in one form or another.
 
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