Cowl Mounted Gauges
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Joined: Jan 2007
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Cowl Mounted Gauges
Does anyone have Cowl Mounted Gauges or have photos of same on these models of truck ?
My intention is to move the mechanical Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and Temperature gauges out of the cab and onto the cowl using Equus Gauge Cups.
Fuzzface2 already gave me a good idea for mounting the cups to the cowl.
I am assuming the lines will need to go down through the cowl and then enter the engine compartment below the hood.
Wiper linkage interference is a concern as I plan this out in my head; but, I will know more about than once I get the cowl raised up where I can see under there.
My intention is to move the mechanical Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and Temperature gauges out of the cab and onto the cowl using Equus Gauge Cups.
Fuzzface2 already gave me a good idea for mounting the cups to the cowl.
I am assuming the lines will need to go down through the cowl and then enter the engine compartment below the hood.
Wiper linkage interference is a concern as I plan this out in my head; but, I will know more about than once I get the cowl raised up where I can see under there.
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Another option I may consider is to mount the gauges onto the rear of the hood, which would probably be a lot easier than cowl mounting and would not look much different.
Would "slamming" the hood be a concern ?
I don't abusively slam my hoods; but, it does require a bit of effort to get them closed; much more so than closing a door.
Would "slamming" the hood be a concern ?
I don't abusively slam my hoods; but, it does require a bit of effort to get them closed; much more so than closing a door.
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Another option I may consider is to mount the gauges onto the rear of the hood, which would probably be a lot easier than cowl mounting and would not look much different.
Would "slamming" the hood be a concern ?
I don't abusively slam my hoods; but, it does require a bit of effort to get them closed; much more so than closing a door.
Would "slamming" the hood be a concern ?
I don't abusively slam my hoods; but, it does require a bit of effort to get them closed; much more so than closing a door.
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I have found just about as many photos of hood-mounted gauges as cowl-mounted; but, not a single example on any sort of truck.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I HOPE YOU DO NOT HAVE A FUEL LINE GOING INTO THE CAB!
If the line leaks or a fire starts in the cab it is all over with.
Racing rules say no fuel lines inside cabs!
Only problem I see with the gauges mounted to the hood is the hoses for the oil and fuel moving each time you open and close the hood.
After some time they will break and spray all over and may cause a fire. Look at a tin can you keep bending it will break in two when bent enough times.
Oh DO NOT use the plastic tubing that comes with the oil psi gauges.
Over time it dries out and gets brittle and breaks spraying oil all over.If in the engine bay can cause a oil fire, inside just a mess.
They sell copper tubing kits for this and is the way to go.
I know you may hate what I am saying but better safe than sorry and be with us another day
Dave ----
Only reason why I had the fuel psi gauge was it was on my drag racing car and wanted to know what was going on and no time to look at dash or under it when 1/4 mile drag racing.
If the line leaks or a fire starts in the cab it is all over with.
Racing rules say no fuel lines inside cabs!
Only problem I see with the gauges mounted to the hood is the hoses for the oil and fuel moving each time you open and close the hood.
After some time they will break and spray all over and may cause a fire. Look at a tin can you keep bending it will break in two when bent enough times.
Oh DO NOT use the plastic tubing that comes with the oil psi gauges.
Over time it dries out and gets brittle and breaks spraying oil all over.If in the engine bay can cause a oil fire, inside just a mess.
They sell copper tubing kits for this and is the way to go.
I know you may hate what I am saying but better safe than sorry and be with us another day
Dave ----
Only reason why I had the fuel psi gauge was it was on my drag racing car and wanted to know what was going on and no time to look at dash or under it when 1/4 mile drag racing.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Elk Grove Village, IL
You have no interest in mounting the gauges on the A-pillar? I would prefer that over having to try to look thru the windshield and try to figure out what the gauges are reading. On a rainy or snowy day, those gauges may be un-readable. If you do prefer mounting on the exterior of the truck, you should consider that water will enter the cowl. So, run the lines as high as possible in the cowl-to-engine-compartment portion of the firewall. If you decide to mount on the hood, you could consider hood pins and not deal with 'slamming' the hood shut.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
You have no interest in mounting the gauges on the A-pillar? I would prefer that over having to try to look thru the windshield and try to figure out what the gauges are reading. On a rainy or snowy day, those gauges may be un-readable. If you do prefer mounting on the exterior of the truck, you should consider that water will enter the cowl. So, run the lines as high as possible in the cowl-to-engine-compartment portion of the firewall. If you decide to mount on the hood, you could consider hood pins and not deal with 'slamming' the hood shut.
As for trying to read them you dont!
When the motor is at normal temp for water and oil psi you turn all the gauge needled so they point in 1 direction,normally up.
This way at a glance if a gauge it not pointing the way you set them for normal you know you got a problem so the next time YOU CAN look at it you can then maybe read it.
When the needles point all over the place you then need to look at the gauges more closely than at the road / track and that is not good
They may not look good at rest but who cares.
Dave ----
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I already have braided stainless JIC lines for the Oil Pressure and Fuel Pressure; I'm not worried much about them flexing apart anytime soon.
I am still puzzling over how to make the Water Temperature capillary tube look like the braided stainless; that huge big retaining nut and bulb out there at the end sort of limits what can be done to change the look of the umbilical.
I was hoping somebody could point me toward some photos of how they had addressed all this on a like-model truck.
I am still puzzling over how to make the Water Temperature capillary tube look like the braided stainless; that huge big retaining nut and bulb out there at the end sort of limits what can be done to change the look of the umbilical.
I was hoping somebody could point me toward some photos of how they had addressed all this on a like-model truck.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I only had the fuel psi gauge mounted to the cowl on the race car, that I no longer have, and it did not have the wiper assy in place so I did not have to worry about the linkage hitting the hose for the gauge. Hose went out the hole where the wiper motor would have been mounted.
The oil (copper tubing), and the temp (like yours) went out holes left in firewall when the car was gutted as the gauges were mounted inside.
Any other holes had to be filled / covered as per the rules. Because I had a fuel cell and battery in the truck I had to install a firewall between truck and passenger area. Because the battery was in the truck a cut off switch to kill everything had to be wired in and marked for OFF.
There were other safety things done to pass tech and the only thing I got tagged on was the drive shaft loop.
When the car was built it had to be no farther from the front Ujoint than 12"
Well when I got the car done and to the track they changed it to 6". Told me to change it before I came back next time.
I dont have issues with anyone asking why I did something the way I did and not like so .....
Their way maybe safer than my way.
Dave ----
The oil (copper tubing), and the temp (like yours) went out holes left in firewall when the car was gutted as the gauges were mounted inside.
Any other holes had to be filled / covered as per the rules. Because I had a fuel cell and battery in the truck I had to install a firewall between truck and passenger area. Because the battery was in the truck a cut off switch to kill everything had to be wired in and marked for OFF.
There were other safety things done to pass tech and the only thing I got tagged on was the drive shaft loop.
When the car was built it had to be no farther from the front Ujoint than 12"
Well when I got the car done and to the track they changed it to 6". Told me to change it before I came back next time.
I dont have issues with anyone asking why I did something the way I did and not like so .....
Their way maybe safer than my way.
Dave ----
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