ENGINE TIMING QUESTION
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
ENGINE TIMING QUESTION
1995 Ford F-150 5.0
automatic transmission
Replaced the distributor. Engine doesn’t start. Cranks but no start.
I am sure that I am at cylinder #1 TDC on the compression stroke.
My question is that is my harmonic balancer supposed to be at exactly 0 degrees lined up with the metal marker bracket or is it supposed to be at 10 degrees BTDC lined up.
I have it lined up at 0 degrees right now and it doesn’t start. It cranks over and occasionally starts and runs at very low RPM and then shuts off.
I have a timing light to get this right but I can’t get the truck to run long enough to get to operating temp.
The spout is disconnected btw.
I am also sure that I am getting fuel because my #1 spark plug had some fuel when I pulled it to verify that I was on TDC.
thanks in advance
automatic transmission
Replaced the distributor. Engine doesn’t start. Cranks but no start.
I am sure that I am at cylinder #1 TDC on the compression stroke.
My question is that is my harmonic balancer supposed to be at exactly 0 degrees lined up with the metal marker bracket or is it supposed to be at 10 degrees BTDC lined up.
I have it lined up at 0 degrees right now and it doesn’t start. It cranks over and occasionally starts and runs at very low RPM and then shuts off.
I have a timing light to get this right but I can’t get the truck to run long enough to get to operating temp.
The spout is disconnected btw.
I am also sure that I am getting fuel because my #1 spark plug had some fuel when I pulled it to verify that I was on TDC.
thanks in advance
Last edited by WELCMETOTHEPARTY; Aug 12, 2024 at 05:19 PM.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 166
Likes: 38
From: SW GA
1995 Ford F-150 5.0
automatic transmission
Replaced the distributor. Engine doesn’t start. Cranks but no start.
I am sure that I am at cylinder #1 TDC on the compression stroke.
My question is that is my harmonic balancer supposed to be at exactly 0 degrees lined up with the metal marker bracket or is it supposed to be at 10 degrees BTDC lined up.
I have it lined up at 0 degrees right now and it doesn’t start. It cranks over and occasionally starts and runs at very low RPM and then shuts off.
I have a timing light to get this right but I can’t get the truck to run long enough to get to operating temp.
The spout is disconnected btw.
thanks in advance
automatic transmission
Replaced the distributor. Engine doesn’t start. Cranks but no start.
I am sure that I am at cylinder #1 TDC on the compression stroke.
My question is that is my harmonic balancer supposed to be at exactly 0 degrees lined up with the metal marker bracket or is it supposed to be at 10 degrees BTDC lined up.
I have it lined up at 0 degrees right now and it doesn’t start. It cranks over and occasionally starts and runs at very low RPM and then shuts off.
I have a timing light to get this right but I can’t get the truck to run long enough to get to operating temp.
The spout is disconnected btw.
thanks in advance
Thread Starter
|
4wd Low
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
It is a cardone new distributor. I replaced it since I had reason to believe that the old one was not working properly. This truck is an at home engine rebuild project. I am trying to get it started after installing it after I rebuilt it.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
I just decided to throw some parts at it and started with the distributor. Where I am currently at is that I have turned the distributor clockwise (advanced) to the point where the truck stays on now but idles at around 8-900 rpm and doesn’t sound like it’s firing right.
Issue now is that I can no longer turn the distributor any more to the right as it hits the sides around it and it looks to be too much rotated at this point anyway.
In this case should I set the engine back to TDC #1 and then lift the distributor up and move it over a tooth to the right to compensate for this?
Or what do you guys suggest as far as this or anything else to check this is just me a rookie taking a guess
Issue now is that I can no longer turn the distributor any more to the right as it hits the sides around it and it looks to be too much rotated at this point anyway.
In this case should I set the engine back to TDC #1 and then lift the distributor up and move it over a tooth to the right to compensate for this?
Or what do you guys suggest as far as this or anything else to check this is just me a rookie taking a guess
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Just to confirm... you are using the passenger side front cylinder as #1?
My suggestion is don't try to start the engine with the spout plug removed, leave it in and let the motor get warmed up and stabilize before attempting to set the base timing. Pulling the spout while the engine is running will only set a minor code at most, it's not a big deal.
When fully seated the distributor body should sit with the wiring harness or ignition module(depending on the vintage) pointing at about the 4:30 o-clock position.. which should leave enough room for timing adjustment.
My suggestion is don't try to start the engine with the spout plug removed, leave it in and let the motor get warmed up and stabilize before attempting to set the base timing. Pulling the spout while the engine is running will only set a minor code at most, it's not a big deal.
When fully seated the distributor body should sit with the wiring harness or ignition module(depending on the vintage) pointing at about the 4:30 o-clock position.. which should leave enough room for timing adjustment.
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Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Just to confirm... you are using the passenger side front cylinder as #1?
My suggestion is don't try to start the engine with the spout plug removed, leave it in and let the motor get warmed up and stabilize before attempting to set the base timing. Pulling the spout while the engine is running will only set a minor code at most, it's not a big deal.
When fully seated the distributor body should sit with the wiring harness or ignition module(depending on the vintage) pointing at about the 4:30 o-clock position.. which should leave enough room for timing adjustment.
My suggestion is don't try to start the engine with the spout plug removed, leave it in and let the motor get warmed up and stabilize before attempting to set the base timing. Pulling the spout while the engine is running will only set a minor code at most, it's not a big deal.
When fully seated the distributor body should sit with the wiring harness or ignition module(depending on the vintage) pointing at about the 4:30 o-clock position.. which should leave enough room for timing adjustment.
What you described is exactly how it is currently set up… except that the engine idles really low and then shuts off. When I turn the distributor clockwise (advance) it begins to idle at a higher rpm (8-900 rpm) and that’s when it is turned as much as it can.
Tomorrow I’m going to reconnect the spout verify that my cylinder #1 is at TDC (I am 100% sure that it already is) and begin further diagnosing any other probable causes.
Again if you guys can think of anything I am missing it is much appreciated
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
That is about right, a cold engine can have trouble running with the spout removed, it gets another 20deg or so of timing at idle with the spout in which really helps. The warm idle with spout in should be 650-700rpm.
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