Hey Ya'll
I've been havin a "fit" with my PCM. Went from running OK to 10 codes and in limp mode back in Jan. I found a PCM on "Flea Bay" Had a local dealership run my vin and it matched up. Installed in early Feb. and worked great until late June. Pulled it and the 1 of the 3 capicatiors was swole up. Ordered a set of 3 and just replaced the 1. Ran Ok for a week or so. I ordered 2 sets of caps and replaced 3 in my orig. PCM and 3 in the spare. Reinstalled my orig. and even worse. Pulled that one and reinstalled the spare and doing much better. During all this mess I checked the plugs, all 8 were smutted up,,, a bit rich I'd say.. Also changed pressure regulator and fuel filter, Then had 2psi at the rail. I did notice on start up with key in #2 position that the fuel pump would run well past the alotted 1-2 sec. Pulled the tank and chanded the fuel pump. While taking the tank down found it was weeping gas under both bottom straps,,,,, so new tank and fuel pump assembly. It was still rich, and seemed to be cutting fuel flow causing a "bucking" situtation. Put the repaired spare back in and now running well. Only 1 isssue which has been going on since I got the rig in 2018 Thermactor codes. I have repaced the the EGR and sensor way back when and never cured those 2 or 3 codes but It did run well. So,,, question to my more learned friends here, has anyone had luck with any of the repair services that that I could send my orig PCM to just in case the spare decides to "belly-up" on me. My truck,, 1995 F150 4x4 5.0 Eddy Bauer Edition. with 226k on the clock. The ole gal has been generally good to me and I hope to keep her up and running till a piston flys out the hood one year in the far off future. Thanks in advance for an educated observation, and any help offered. .

 

I don’t know what “#2 position” is but the fuel pump continuing to run is the sign of a bad PCM/ECM.

Thermactor and EGR are two entirely different systems which is why replacing the EGR valve and position sensor didn’t cure the air injection codes.

Do you still have the calibration code on the driver’s side B pillar? If so, have you used the search to see if someone else has asked for the replacement PCM part number?

 

Position 0, key is in your hand [ignition not turned]
Position 1, Key turned to the Acc
Position 2, Key on where all the dash lights should be on. Usually the engine is running.
Position 3, Starter is engaged and the engine should be cranking over.

 

On My rig position 2 on the ignation switch is where the fuel pump comes on and dash light light up just prior to starting. That is just before #3 which starts the motor. It tooke me some time and yackin with the parts guys to start honning in on the PCM as an issue. I haven't seen any on here for sale. There are some companies on google search and ebay that say ,,,U send it,,, we fixit it. I was hoping to find someone on here that has had success with at least one of those services. I just hate trying to buy another used 30 year old PCM for a spare just incase.
Yeah those EGR and Thermactor codes, usually 2 or 3 have been a constant even with clearing several times and don't seem to interfeer with the running. I can use the OBD1 or pull the neg. cable and they will return within 4-5 miles. even the EGR code still comes back even after replacing several years ago. I'll check the codes tomorrow and maybe you'll have a clue,, cause I don't ,, at this point.
I'll have to look for the calibration code, it may be there. My PCM that was in the truck when I got it in 2018 has a series of codes but I'll check,,, cause on a truck of this certian age may have been swapped out. The dealer said my vin matched up with the spare PCM I bought but I didn't check the original. Those 2 had almost exact matching numbers soo.

 

That is what mine does as well. During all this crap there was a point where #2 fires the fuel pump,,, if working correctly it takes a long sec. to pressurize the fuel rails. I found that at the pump was staying way too long so that about when I got into swappin and repairing the PCM. All the fuel business is cleared up,,,, at this point in time. I'm just hoping to find someone that has used a repair service and can vouch for them. Cardone has that but they deal with businesses like Orilleys,, Auto Zone, NAPA etc. and middle men beat your wallet to death. I'll try to email them and see if their repair service can bypass tha distributor issue, but ain't gonna count on that just yet

 

On my trucks…

Inset the key: OFF
Turn the key back towards me for ACC
Turning the key past off to next position RUN
Turn more START

Hence my question. Turning the key forward two spots from OFF is START

I would be taking my chances with a Cardone over a used computer because it would at least have a warranty. I’ve never looked in the Classifieds here so I wouldn’t know how often computers pop up.

What are these codes? They must be active codes since you say they come back after a few miles or are they stored codes that you aren’t clearing ?

 

You are right about Cardone, If they will deal with me directly on just their repair service. When I got the Rig years back. I got a new Innova OBD1 code reader. I have had other codes pop up and made or replaced a few items as needed. However these 3 pop up reguardless. 328,,332,,334, I can use the code reader to clear but usually pull the neg. cable. Then re check and with all cleared,, the always pop back up after a 5-10 mile drive. I think I'm gonna get a vac. guage,, maybe today. I saw a good video last night and that feller had no vac register so he found the heavier red vac line was broken in the conduit cover. All my lines look great, at least where there are visible. These codes come up with either of the 2 PCMs I've swapped out.. What else could think of? .These are checked with the KOEO test, I'll have to run the KOER test later today after I run out to the store.

 

I ran the KOER and found 2 codes 311 and 328. I just got the vac guage but havent put it to use yet. The CEL will come on and go off in 30sec to 1 min while driving and that's usually 50-55 mph pulling a moderate hill. It seems that maybe there is a small vac. leak ? Truck is running very well for 226k. Orilleys needs my PCM code, I have I have a pic I took while swapping and replacing the 3 capicators of those PCMs. You had referred to a code behind the B pillar. Would that be the same code/ group of numbers on the PCM where the harness connects?

 

Yahoo, I took the vac guage and started digging in, of course after dark. Had strong vac on the red line at the coffee can. I then made a loop with some small hose to the black vac line off the can over to the valve. Thats where the black line and green line meet up. No vac at all on the black line. I put the fitting back on leaving the black off and did the same at the valve. So I made a jumper of sorts. Cleaned the codes then ran it about 10 miles. No CEL So now I just have to route new vac line through some shielding and my EGR seems to work well. Durining that process I'll pull out orig black vac line and see what the cause was, after 6 years now. ..maybe contact Cardone Tues/Wed to see if I can get the orig. PCM repaired. Thanks

 

I've used these guys with success:

https://siaelec.com/product/ford-ecm...repair-return/

 

thanks, I've together the PCM numbers to them in the next day or so. If Cardone doesn't have one in stock, then I look at sending in my organically for repair. Today I found a funky. The black vac hose that t'ees into the front of the tdm and tdb had was pulling no vacume. I bypassed that then found the 2 vac hoses off them had been cut. I think they go to the thermmacter system. The truck is running great, no CEL from the EGR that has been a constant for 6 years now. If you or any one can enlighten me as to where those 2 hoses actually are suppose to connect to, that would be great.

 

Look for a vacuum line diagram under your hood, or in a '95 manual, or online.
Here's a video from an '88 5.0. Your bypass and divert valves are combined, so they're not arranged like the ones in the video, but the principle is the same.

This is the combination valve you'll have on the back of your engine.

The top red dot is where the vacuum line connects, that's coming from the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) solenoid.
The lower red dot is where the vacuum line connects, that's coming from the TAD (Thermactor Air Divert) solenoid.
The TAB solenoid electrical connector, will have the keyed slot in the middle. The TAD solenoid electrical connector will have the keyed slot to one side.

TAB solenoid electrical connector, with the keyed slot in the center. TAD connector keyed slot will be off to the side.

 

The second post at this thread shows a '96 label.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...this-part.html

 

I will look at mine ASAP,,,Thanks

 

I've got Orilleys checking with Cardone but they haven't one in stock for my rig to sell since Dec. I filled out their quote form tonight and see what SIA has to say. Thanks much