Hey friend. I drew out my own schematic from your pics. and reconnected the TAD and TAB vac. lines and where they went. After a couple hrs. of cooling down I was able to slide way back over the engine and handle the connecting od those lines. I did find a little "Funny" while in that process. On the top "vac. pod" of that system I found a vac line attached. It went over to the fra left side on top side and connected to "not sure" but maybe and actutator for the A/C-Heat. Anyway I hooked up the vac lines correctly and tapped that vent line to that new mess. The truck is running great but hard as I try I'm still getting a 328 low voltage to/from the EGR but no CEL light. Thank you so much for the actual pics. I work much better with something like that. If you have any ideas about that 328 code I'm open to suggestions But as far as running.. It's great and now no thermacter code.

 

Did you try clearing the codes, to see if that 328 comes back? One way to clear them is to disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Some code readers have a function that clears them.
Code 328 is related to the position sensor (EVP), that's attached to the EGR valve.
Here's a thread on testing that sensor.
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa...cement.218407/
​​​​​​

 

Yeah. I have removed the Neg. cable so many times over these last 6 years I've had to replace it twice. I've also used all the tricks I can find using the INNOVA,, OBD! reader. I'll look over your video. I did get frustrated enough back a few years and replaced the EGR and It's sensor, but maybe your video will help.

 

It's also possible that the code is being caused by your bad PCM.

 

Hey Friend. I do tend to ramble sometimes, espically about the PCM. The used one that I had in and out and now backn after replacing all 3 caps at once now seens to be doing well. I waiting to hear back from a repair company I was refered to on this thread. Cardone still doesn't have one in stock.I did go to the link you sent with the detailed way and values to check on the EGR sensor. I have 2 digital volt meters, both new with in the last 2 years. When I pulled the sensor yesterday and tried to ohm out across the pins I set the meter to or closest to the expected values, No reading, So for giggles I moved the values on the meter up and then up more till I did see numbers but at 20k, 200k and 2m, levels All way above where they should be. Then on both of the meters there is a selection to give a tone just to get basic continuity. Neither meter made a peep. I did check on a screwdriver a few incnes apart and they both sang like a bird. So my best guess is that sensor is trash. I replaced it a few years back, So I see Advanced Auto has a new replacement for 41.00 on sale. I'll probably try to get off the **** and get that done. I'll hollar at ya after I replace and clear that code then see what happens. Thanks much again for all the great pics and links

 

Hey Friend, I got a new EGR position senser today. Pulled the neg cable while changing it out. Ifirst checked for any stored coeds,,,, none. Ran the KOEO after a good warm up a 111 code, thats good I think. Ran it about 20 miles and re checked. 111 again. Runnin as smooth as a baby's be-hind with talcum powder. I might be in my happy zone,, at least for a while. One more question, while changing the fluids on the freebie Benz it called for 85-90 Hypoid gear oil. I got the Liqui Moly brand "recommened". That hypoid gear oil is used for heavier pressures generated in the hypoid gears. Curious what you thought about filling up the rear punkin in the F150 with that goo?

 

Fill the rear differential with 80W-90 gear oil? Ok. That’s probably what is in there now. Do you have a limited slip or open carrier? If limited slip you will need to add friction modifier.

 

Hey friend. I went to that site and filled out their Get a Quote..I gave them all my contact info. with a message of problems I am having with my original PCM. Haven't got a response yet. Wondering what your experience was with their response time. At first glance they seem qualified and knowledgable. At this point the PCM I bought on ebay is working well, after I finally replaced all 3 caps at once, so I'm hopping to get the original repaired as as spare, cause we all know how these 30 year old vehicals will do,,,,,Leave you hitch-hiking back tto the house,,HA Ha
Thanks for your input..

 

I check the axle code inside the driver door,,, says 19 which from I see see is not a limited slip. I did replace that oil, took off the cover and cleaned it out and gave it a look over. I guess that was 4 years ago. More recently I see the pinion shaft seal is leaking. I got a new seal yesterday and now waiting on a few days of drier weather. As I have a gravel driveway my mechanics creeper is the poor man's version,, big heavy cardboard box opened up. So when I'm in the middle of a procedure and it pours rain I wind up wallerin in a cardboard and gravel soup. .

 

Much celebrating last night. My 3rd brake light I wired back to the topper has been out a little while.I checked the light it was good but o
no power to it. I started tracing the wire back, i had tie strapped it a wiring harness so when i got backto the rear shock I found the the wire was broke in to. That was easy enough. When I was repairing that break I noticed the larger wiring harness shield cover was missing about a 2 inch piece and a couple wires had small bare spots while resting on top of the frame. It appeared thay it was some of the wires were those that went to the fuel pump and that would explain why my PCM, fuel pump ect. has been acting up. I cleaned all that up, covered the bare wires the tie strapped that area up off the frame. It may be that when I was hauling a full bed load of wood some how that got damaged. Either way clearedd the coded and ran it about 10 miles last night no CEL or stalling when I would come to a stop. I think that is what caused me to start replacing fuel parts, regulator, filter, pump,tank PCM-used, plugs. Wow this has been an expensive and wild ride but Fingers-crossed all that is done. Now just waiting for what comes next

 

Thanks for the update with the good news.