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Freeda's been very reliable until yesterday. Jumped in her to run an errand and no start. Starter wouldn't turn over, so I grabbed a battery jump pack. No crank, no nuthin'. All lights work, though.
The clutch safety switch is dead and the plug has been jumped so I thought the jumper may have fallen out. Nope, still there. I did notice the jumper wire was a bit warm, dunno if that means anything.
I'll tackle fuses and grounds tomorrow, but is there anything else I should look at?
Not sure what year yours is, but if you have all the dash power but no crank, and it cranks when you jump the solenoid, i think the major culprit is the ignition actuator in the column. On the 87-91 trucks it was a pot metal piece of junk that would break, i am not 100% on the 92-97 trucks.
A warm jumper wire means your starter is shot
Manually test the starter with a pair of jumper cables
I got a feeling you will be welding, and the starter will not spin
Like to see you have a working clutch interlock switch
'89F2urd - not hot, just warm enough when I felt it that it stuck in my mind. "Hey, that's weird - should it be warm?"
manicmechanic007 - if jumping the solenoid in the engine compartment doesn't work, I'll move to the starter. I'm guessing pos->hot terminal, neg->ground, right?
Seems like me '88 had this issue. If there's any up/down play in the steering wheel try lifting the wheel while you turn the key. If that caauses a start then there;s some screws have loosened and need tightening.
The jumper wire at the clutch safety switch could be lowering the voltage going to your fender mounted starter relay (aka solenoid).
The coil inside that relay needs a solid 12 volts.
That circuit, to the coil of the fender mounted relay, is separate from the circuit flowing through the relay to the starter. The heat in the jumper probably isn't related to the starter. It's probably just a poor connection.
If you're going to leave that jumper there, make sure it has a good connection.
Do you have a volt meter? Remove the wire from the "s" terminal of the fender mounted relay, turn the key to start, and you should have 12 volts between that wire and battery negative.
Inspect the ground cable that runs from the battery negative terminal, to the frame and engine block. Your starter is grounded through the starter mounting bolts, to the block, then through that cable.
Soupbean - ok, that all makes sense. Many thanks for the good explanation. I have a volt meter and will look into/try your relay and ground suggestions; will also fortify the clutch safety jumper.
If you get 12 volts to the small gauge "s" wire, reinstall it on the fender mounted relay, then remove the large gauge wire that goes to the starter.
With that starter wire removed, turn the key to start. The relay should close and send 12 volts to the stud where the large gauge starter wire was connected.