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I'm just a guy, but along with all of us at FTE, welcome, and we'll do our best to help you figure this out. Thanks for the FORScan data - that helps alot. See this thread for instructions on how to best use FORScan with our trucks.
Tell us more about your truck. Your profile says it's a 2000 F350, is that correct? Tell us some more information about the problem. When does the rough running occur (all the time, at idle, when accelerating, etc)
The data you attached looks like it's from FORScan, though I'm not familiar with the first two images. I'd like to know more about that.
Here is a chart of the CSV file you provided, using our PID charting tool. As you've seen, FORScan does not graph very well, so we made this excel tool. The chart shows the rig running down the road at up to 50mph. I don't see an immediate issue that would cause rough running, but the truck is slowing down and speeding up alot. There is a little idle section at the end that looks normal to me. Your high pressure oil system and boost looks to be performing correctly throughout this data.
[QUOTE=John in OkieLand;21305714]that chart is powerful, but I suggest formatting the cells for
Center
Middle
makes for easier reading, I can't tell what is going on with the original format.
I'll try..here are some random codes I throw..Truck has s b intake 5 in exhaust hydra tuner EPBV DELETE EBS DELETED AIH DELETED now noticed oil in valley that wasn't there ALL OF THESE CODE POPPED UP WENT AWAY ..except shift solenoid aih iat THIS IS ALL RANDOM...
THEY COME AND
EOT is running cool at 150F, but this data is not very long - might still be warming up. The EBP sensor has been deleted, per her comment above.
Where to start, huh? Is this a california truck? Do you have to pass california emissions? With the glow plug module codes, that might need attention, and affect cold starts, roughness.
[The glow plug comes and goes I also have no speedometer shifts hard asf shakes under acceleration like bad front or something but all is new..WHATS THE CMP LOW READING HERE IS A DIFFERENT ONE of today ..what's this shift solenoid 1 and 2F. FAULT...ALSO THE TRANSFERCASE 1
AND NO BARO..
QUOTE=BWST;21305783]EOT is running cool at 150F, but this data is not very long - might still be warming up. The EBP sensor has been deleted, per her comment above.
Where to start, huh? Is this a california truck? Do you have to pass california emissions? With the glow plug module codes, that might need attention, and affect cold starts, roughness.[/QUOTE]
Wow this is a lot to unpack, but let's see what we can sort through. CMP is the camshaft sensor more commonly known, around here at least, as the CPS(cam position sensor). It is the linchpin to all the engine management. Without an accurate signal from that little guy the PCM shuts her down. The low reading refers to a ground side fault, which if I recall the ground is the signal return wire which is shared by most all of the deleted sensors you mentioned. The shift solenoid codes are transmission codes. They might have something to do with the shuttering and hard shifts you mentioned, though some of it could be tuning also. Depends what you've got loaded on the hydra and who wrote them and what if any transmission mods you've got. Transfer case codes I wouldn't worry about for now anyway, and the baro is probably just the wrong PID loaded. There are at least 2 baro's on the list try loading the other and see what you get.
Wow this is a lot to unpack, but let's see what we can sort through. CMP is the camshaft sensor more commonly known, around here at least, as the CPS(cam position sensor). It is the linchpin to all the engine management. Without an accurate signal from that little guy the PCM shuts her down. The low reading refers to a ground side fault, which if I recall the ground is the signal return wire which is shared by most all of the deleted sensors you mentioned. The shift solenoid codes are transmission codes. They might have something to do with the shuttering and hard shifts you mentioned, though some of it could be tuning also. Depends what you've got loaded on the hydra and who wrote them and what if any transmission mods you've got. Transfer case codes I wouldn't worry about for now anyway, and the baro is probably just the wrong PID loaded. There are at least 2 baro's on the list try loading the other and see what you get.
could my cam sensor cause all this..also no speedometer but work on forscan
Technically yes but I'd be surprised if it was a silver bullet that made everything go away. It's worth a try though considering it's actually one of the cheaper sensors on the truck. Only buy Motorcraft sensors and only from known reputable vendors. Usually best to steer clear of Amazon and eBay. Rockauto, RiffRaff, and Diesel O rings are my recommendations for known quality parts. If they sell you a Motorcraft part it is a Motorcraft part.
If the speedometer doesn't work but does read in forscan then it's a probably at the gauge or at least between where the wire splits to go to PCM and gauge. Plus the CPS doesn't give the speed of the truck only the speed of the engine. The speed sensor in the rear differential is where that signal comes from.
QUOTE=udsuth78;21306521]Technically yes but I'd be surprised if it was a silver bullet that made everything go away. It's worth a try though considering it's actually one of the cheaper sensors on the truck. Only buy Motorcraft sensors and only from known reputable vendors. Usually best to steer clear of Amazon and eBay. Rockauto, RiffRaff, and Diesel O rings are my recommendations for known quality parts. If they sell you a Motorcraft part it is a Motorcraft part.
If the speedometer doesn't work but does read in forscan then it's a probably at the gauge or at least between where the wire splits to go to PCM and gauge. Plus the CPS doesn't give the speed of the truck only the speed of the engine. The speed sensor in the rear differential is where that signal comes from.[/QUOTE]
Is it more to the front or the rear? How much are we talking about, and has any work been done on or near any part of the hpo system recently? If there's no indicators leading to the source the the best/only way to find it is to clean the valley as dry as you can get it then lay down a bed of clean paper towels and take her for a short drive. The paper towels should get you in the neighborhood. A flashlight and possibly a little yoga should lead you the rest of the way.
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