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If you want to do them, just get the springs and new stem seals. I had a fair amount of shims already in the little box that is going out, unsure if Khan will toss the rest in of his but probably. I THINK one of the spring compressors is the actual 7.3DI compressor tool, the other two are the ones I used.
Tool stuff is free to use, just let me know where it is at and who is using it. If you want to send me a few bucks for a burger or beer, go for it I guess.
I have 205/30s and drive on stock 90/0 tuning, works pretty well shockingly. I think Jim did the numbers in some post I read before and it drives about like 90/30s (if those were a thing) with that size and stock tuning. I went around and around between 160/30 and 205/30. I have a Hydra somewhere, cannot recall where I put it but eh. I have more *** than stock and fresh sticks.
Before I would do much else to that rig, do a compression test and see what else that mill needs before putting $2000 into it more. Your HPOP probably is getting tired, the OE valve springs are junk, mechanical fuel is crap, etc.
I have 160/0s now and will be sending them to Rosewood this week or the next to get bumped to 200/30's or with a super secret special nozzle that Andrew Arthur recommends.
The power of the 160/0 injector is an incredible bump over the stock stuff, especially when you throw a hydra on there. Even at elevation in CO they run super clean.
@Hit Man X and I are big stakeholders in the valve spring game. Even after doing just fresh springs with .030 shims underneath all valves it smoothed out the RPM band. I'm planning on going back and correcting and shimming to correct specs soon and studs while down there since its no longer my daily driver.
see this is what separates the boys from men. I have never done valve springs nor shims. Cams, heads gaskets, ect ive done never ventured down that path. What does the shims do exactly?
If you want to do them, just get the springs and new stem seals. I had a fair amount of shims already in the little box that is going out, unsure if Khan will toss the rest in of his but probably. I THINK one of the spring compressors is the actual 7.3DI compressor tool, the other two are the ones I used.
Tool stuff is free to use, just let me know where it is at and who is using it. If you want to send me a few bucks for a burger or beer, go for it I guess.
Good springs and installed with the shims (as needed) allow the valve train to maintain itself if that makes sense. Good springs allow them to stay shut at high RPM and high boost. If the valve cracks open under load, you are not properly filling the chamber. Same with weak springs on a gasser, one needs the control to make power.
Sounds complex, but is not. Stock are somewhere around 70lb seat pressure I think. Really, find my build thread and the data is there. I attempted to explain in lay terms so it makes sense. If too strange, let us know and I will try to explain more. Also super cheap mod.
My power band did clean up. Also ran smoothly with that Fluidampr.
Oven cleaner and a brush can make anything shiny...check the IPR and ICP output under full load. Unless one has a receipt, I really do not trust stuff.
Mine are overkill for a manual dually (me), yet after all the research I am pleased. Reading about injection events, how long it takes to drain the injector, etc. I too like to zip around town not dragging anything for errands like bed of mulch or other nonsense. Seem like killer tow units, be better once I update the turbocharger. They too are from Bitterroot and seem fine
Stock springs are known soft. Too much boost will make the valves float. I posted all the data in my build thread if you want to read it. Simple math showing valve diameter with boost and how it reacts.
Stock push rods also can bend. Cheap enough mods to do while in there. Spring compressors, mic, and shims going to @Khan next. Welcome to use after.
that'd be awesome I'll let you guys know when I buy the springs, stems, push rods. Those might happen before injectors any specific brand to go with? Not familiar with all the good aftermarket stuff yet.
Good springs and installed with the shims (as needed) allow the valve train to maintain itself if that makes sense. Good springs allow them to stay shut at high RPM and high boost. If the valve cracks open under load, you are not properly filling the chamber. Same with weak springs on a gasser, one needs the control to make power.
Sounds complex, but is not. Stock are somewhere around 70lb seat pressure I think. Really, find my build thread and the data is there. I attempted to explain in lay terms so it makes sense. If too strange, let us know and I will try to explain more. Also super cheap mod.
My power band did clean up. Also ran smoothly with that Fluidampr.
Oven cleaner and a brush can make anything shiny...check the IPR and ICP output under full load. Unless one has a receipt, I really do not trust stuff.
yeah thats what i was thinking too is they couldve cleaned it up. I just installed a new ipr from riff raff a couple weeks ago replaced the lpop with a mellings since i had to do the harmonic balancer( looking into the fluidampner and high volume lpop for better upgrades.) So I atleast know those 3 things are new lol icp isn't oily but I'm ordering one off riff raff along with the main engine harness. (Passenger side harness has exposed injector wires and i like the look of new and also less chance of voltage drop.) I guess I didn't really think about the fact that the springs could be weak. Might as well do them then along with the stem retainers and pushrods.
Can the new springs and such improve mpg? Only getting 13 from my CCLB 4 wheel drive on all terrain stock tires. If so the $100 is worth it.
I wouldn't expect springs to noticably improve MPG, but it definitely firms up the rpm band.
You could think of it kind of like like working out. Old springs are similar to trying to lift weights and be shaking, vs fresh springs it will be lifting the same weight but be in full control and steady through the whole range of motion. It's hard to describe other than the entire RPM range feels smoother and a little more responsive.
Understood, I think I will look out for some YouTube videos for a understanding of how perform the install. The only reason I perform half of the installs I do are because of the guys on this forum and YouTube videos. Otherwise, I would primarily stick to my own craft.
Good springs and installed with the shims (as needed) allow the valve train to maintain itself if that makes sense. Good springs allow them to stay shut at high RPM and high boost. If the valve cracks open under load, you are not properly filling the chamber. Same with weak springs on a gasser, one needs the control to make power.
Sounds complex, but is not. Stock are somewhere around 70lb seat pressure I think. Really, find my build thread and the data is there. I attempted to explain in lay terms so it makes sense. If too strange, let us know and I will try to explain more. Also super cheap mod.
My power band did clean up. Also ran smoothly with that Fluidampr.
Oven cleaner and a brush can make anything shiny...check the IPR and ICP output under full load. Unless one has a receipt, I really do not trust stuff.
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