Based on my DIY at home testing, yes...

That is all I can say about that here because of the three letter agencies keeping an eye on us for our own safety.

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You and I need to talk. Face to face. At a secret bunker.

 

stay out of my head!

 

but seriously if you are running old school class A or AB amps you need a stiffening cap, if you a re running the current crop of class D's then you need bigger wires fuses and a battery that can dump and recharge as fast as a cap or close to it for the transients. this only really applies if you are really slamming like at 145db and higher though. if your below that it really does not matter that much unless you are really over driving a small amp..

 

I've been running the ss tarantula nanos for a number of years. Solid amps. 1 exception. The rca inputs. I've never had problems with this on any other amp, but have had them break. First time for me, so keep an eye on it. But they make Tiffany style RCA's for a reason...

That mdf is gonna double the weight of the box. Have you done the math on the size, the port is gonna take some space and the box is gonna be larger? Not much space back there.

 

Honeycomb carbon fiber panel for the subwoofer box win.

 

I remember visiting my uncle in 1971 when he was doing large cap testing in his apartment. He was soon and suddenly evicted.

 

I forgot about those power hungry pigs...his soundstream should be class AB iirc. I used to run a cap circa 90's-2000 on my ZX Phoenix golds (best amps I've run back then) I don't think they helped.
that was in my old 79...single battery, stock alt probably didn't help but it pounded for what it was. I didn't monitor voltage drop or anything back then

 

I bought a 50x2 Precision Power car amp to run a pair of mid/tweeter component speakers in 1999 and that thing was one nice piece of engineering. Wish I still had it as a coffee table conversation piece. Now I barely ever turn the radio on.

 

Pretty sure all of the nano amps are class D
Too small and not nearly enough heat sink surface on them.

 

Eclipse also. Those 8800 Series subwoofers with silver titanium cones were unreal. Too much for my budget.

 

Thanks for the video. I might send the capacitor back once it gets here. I agree that I would have rather him showed with no cap at all.

I've just got some AutoZone commercial batteries in there. I believe they were 850 CCA each or something like that. Alternator was put on the truck a few months before I bought it by my uncle who bought it local somewhere. Really want something else to put on.

Speaking of that parts truck, I am gonna rob the driveshaft out of it as my slip yoke is a bit wallered out. Only has 478,000 miles on it....

I have 2 Ga cable running back to a dual ANL fuse holder with digital volt readout splitter that splits to 4 Ga to both amps. TBH I haven't even thought about that wire. IIRC I was a little short for paper when I ran that wire and I believe my brother pulled it out of a pair of jumper cables. It is solid copper 2 Ga though, not the aluminum crap at least.

Had I known birch plywood was the best I would have bought that instead. When doing a quick google search for the best sub box material it popped up MDF and recommended 3/4 for 12's so that what I went off of. I didn't know ​​​​​​

Edit* I also have a volt meter phone charger in the 12v port in the dash that also drops to the same voltage as the voltmeter on the fused splitter. My fuel pressure also went down like 5 psi when the subs were beating hard. The voltmeter on the dash also drops when subs are beating in unison with the other two volt meters.

I do sort of now want some nice cable to rerun back there.

 

I used a website to figure the box airspace and it included the port to my specs and bracing in the airspace requirement and takes into account for the thickness of the material as well as the airspace the subs take up themselves.

These amps seem to be doing nice. I really like the lower bass of these 12's vs the 10's I had.

 

Hmmm. Sounds awesome. Also sounds expensive 💰💰

 

All of the Nano amps are indeed Class D amps.