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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

'53 Voltage Regulator

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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 02:16 PM
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'53 Voltage Regulator

Hey all, I'm in the process of rewiring the truck and fixing all the super janky wiring decisions the PO made. Truck has been converted to 12v, and I'm pretty sure it has an alternator instead of a generator. One thing I'm having some trouble with is all of the documentation for all of the F100s I can find show a 3 or 4 pin voltage regulator. The one in my truck only has 2 pins, and doesn't match any of the Ford regulators I've found. It seems like it might be a Chrysler unit. Any idea why someone would have used this regulator? Did some alternators require this regulator? Can I buy any Ford VR and throw it in, or should I buy the '53 or '56 unit? Thanks in advance for any guidance on this.



 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 02:44 PM
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A picture of your alternator would help. Chrysler used alternators on everything from 61 up and they are narrow so it maybe it fit and was handy.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 02:52 PM
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 03:08 PM
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Yup, doing some research brings up that this is definitely a Chrysler alternator. So now the question is, do I wire this thing up in Chrysler mode with the Chrysler VR, or replace both alternator and VR with Ford parts? I have no idea if either/both existing parts are working.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 03:13 PM
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Since you are re-wiring, why not go with a one wire alternator? It works much better and cleans up all of that separate voltage regulator wiring mess.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 03:17 PM
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I think I might go that route. Any suggestions for which alternator to run? I'm leaning towards a Delco 12Si as it's supposed to be a bolt-in replacement and will charge without revving. Alternatively, I'm looking at this guy (link) since it's small and looks pretty nice, but not sure if the pulley is the right distance from the mounting ears and if it needs to be revved to start charging.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 03:55 PM
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 08:37 PM
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If you want to try to use the charging system you already have you can wire up the voltage regulator Field terminal to the + Field terminal on your Alternator. Also on your Alternator if there is a -Field terminal. Run that to a good ground, I would clean up the mounting screws holes on your Voltage Regulator and connect and ground the -Field wire there. The Battery connection stud on your Alternator runs via a heavy number 10 cable or larger to your battery cable side of your starter soleniod. And then back at your Voltage Regulator, at the small quick connect, run a wire to your IGN switch ON or run terminal. If both the Alt and Voltage Regulator are good that should get you going.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 11:59 PM
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Depending on the wiring kit you're using, it might have instructions to wire the Mopar units.

EZ-Wire doesn't have overly detailed instructions, but Painless has great instructions and great customer support. Either way, the wires should be marked, though most likely for GM units.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2024 | 09:56 AM
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Here is a picture from the Google machine:



Handy diagram.
The Alternator in the picture looks like a later model but I would think yours would be wired this way too.On your picture I only see one Field connection. That would be the +Field. The second or - Field connection could be already grounded inside the Alternator.

Anyway I hope it helps!

 
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Old Jul 31, 2024 | 01:22 PM
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Chrysler made a huge improvement when they went to the electronic regulators. I would probably go with a 3wire Ford 3G or the Delco both are simple and reliable. Chrysler hasn't made that style for quite a few years.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2024 | 01:30 PM
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Thanks for the advice all. I've decided to go with a 12si 1-wire (Powermaster), and if that doesn't work for some reason, I may try looming the Chrysler stuff back in or going the 3G route. Always an adventure trying to figure out what the previous guy thought was the best solution at the time. I'm especially enjoying removing the miles of melting electrical tape, dozens of wire splices with no crimp connectors, and reconnecting sections of the system that were just ignored entirely.
 
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