I'm planning on taking the entire drivetrain out of my (rusty) '92 F150 and putting it in my (clean!) '68 F250....eventually. After all, the engine has low miles, it's EFI, overdrive...what's not to like, right?

But another thread got me wondering about my E4OD, so in no particular order:

1. Both of my '92's (see my signature) have replacement transmissions in them, and as I understand it, the OEM transmissions may have had a smaller pump in them. Is there a way for me to tell if these replacement transmissions have the larger, "better" (my term) pumps? I would seriously doubt I would be able to see anything externally, but I'm not averse to dropping the pan, and even the valve body, to check, if this would tell me anything.

2. Can a guy who's never rebuilt an automatic transmission replace ("upgrade") the front pump, if it turns out I have the smaller one? I've built dozens of engines, and about 5 or 6 four speeds, but other than installing a B&M shift kit (R & R the valve body, etc), I've never gotten into an automatic transmission before.

3. Given that the front seal leaks in the '92 F150, when I swap it into the '68 I was planning on installing a new front seal. But now I just read that it would be a good idea to replace the front bushing as well...which makes sense to me. Given the front pump question above, could a guy replace that front bushing as well, if he can replace the front pump? Would it be accessible?

And please note I don't have special tools, if this work would require it/them.

Thanks in advance!

Jim

 

Personally I would replace the bushing and torque converter. That's what the shop did for me. Out of the truck this would only be a couple hundred dollars except the torque converter price. I would just have a good shop do it.

 

With the torque converter out, look at the casting ID on the pump.
If it references RF-F5 or RF-F8 you have the newer one.
More than likely you have the RF-E9, which was used in most/all 1989-1994 models of E4OD.

 

Also, with the front seal, I've read, and I've seen it in a used transmission, the bushing in the pump has a drain back hole, most of them are small, you can enlarge it to match, but also if it is not aligned correctly, fluid wont' drain back, and force the seal out.

 

No problem at all Jim, you can do that.

Take a look at transmission bench videos, you can skip the whole rebuild part if not getting into that, and just watch the pump rebuild portion. They are several hours all together, but worth watching if interested in the transmission.

Read up on the Superior shift correction kit. Covered in the TB videos.

As well, it you are going that far, you might be interested in Transgo Tugger kit, or a modified valve body. Punisher vb, or someone like that, depending on your goals. Iirc, this is also covered in the trans bench video.

No special tools that I recall for removing the pump, and doing the work. You will need a pair of long gear clamps if disassembling the pump, you’ll see what I mean when you get there, or watch the videos, used for aligning the two halves. A file / dremel for opening up the drain back on the pump bushing. I ruined a bushing using a dremel iirc, and ended up using a file by hand.

There are a few specialty tools if completely rebuilding the trans, but nothing terribly expensive, and some you can make your self.

If you are into the valve body, Bench Buddy brushes are a very nice set of brushes that make cleaning the bores very simple. They are made by superior as well, specifically for valve body cleaning.

Front seal, I think I used the Transtec Viton seal. The seals are common, you can probably order one at any local parts store. Lots of online transmission parts suppliers. I’d steer clear of Monster trans, they were a real pita to deal with, I bought a pair of fitting from them.. I won’t do that again.

ATSG manual and the FSM both cover the transmission. I recommend having at least one of those on hand.

I did both the Superior, and Transgo Tugger HD2, happy with both. (You only use some parts of the Superior Kit if doing the Transgo kit as well). I can adjust shift as I like, mechanically internally. Somewhere on here I have a build thread, and I went through the trans on there...

Good luck with it, several other members have done this as well, and I’m sure they will chime in.

 

Here’s my trans build thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...now-apart.html

trans is now in a different truck, going strong.
i did pull the accumulator off, drilled 2nd and 3rd out to give firmer shifts. 3rd is perfect, need more on 2nd.

About 40,000 km on my first rebuild, just following directions as what @JJF20 suggests.

id get parts from Oregon performance trans, that’s where a lot of my parts came from