Engine keeps cutting out when a/c is on!
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 817
I think you figured it out or have a lead on what to eliminate next. Where exactly is your fuel lab regulator mounted also I am assuming the main pump is on your frame rail?
I am also curious, do you have the stator in place that helps direct air up into the engine compartment (supposedly)?
I am also curious, do you have the stator in place that helps direct air up into the engine compartment (supposedly)?
Not sure about the stator, but engine bay picture attached and pics of the fuel pressure regulator location and metal feed lines and Airdog is located on frame rail under drivers seat.
Relocating the fuel regulator will be a bit of work so I'm going to try insulating the metal lines first and if i could raise the back of the hood an inch or so like an old hot rod it would drastically increase air flow over the engine I would think.
First off I think I need to install an electronic temp gauge and mount the sensor directly on the pressure regulator and put the gauge in cab of course then i can get a reading under current setup then if i can lift the back of the hood an inch and see if the temp of the regulator goes down at all.
If that works then I can just buy a air ram cowl hood or whatever they're called or figure out a way to cool engine bay at highway speeds.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 877
Shield the lines for now and see what happens.
Once you get home, relocate the regulator off the engine, as I mentioned mine is off the left side of the degas bottle (looking from the driver's seat) and I made my hoses and wrapped them in heat insulator sleeves routing them away from heat.
I can honestly say I never thought twice about this issue, but now you've piqued my curiosity. I have plans to redo my lines again with SS wrapped PTFE tubing with SS fittings when I install my BD up pipes that have been sitting in the rafters for a few years.
Keep us posted and good luck
Once you get home, relocate the regulator off the engine, as I mentioned mine is off the left side of the degas bottle (looking from the driver's seat) and I made my hoses and wrapped them in heat insulator sleeves routing them away from heat.
I can honestly say I never thought twice about this issue, but now you've piqued my curiosity. I have plans to redo my lines again with SS wrapped PTFE tubing with SS fittings when I install my BD up pipes that have been sitting in the rafters for a few years.
Keep us posted and good luck
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 817
Shield the lines for now and see what happens.
Once you get home, relocate the regulator off the engine, as I mentioned mine is off the left side of the degas bottle (looking from the driver's seat) and I made my hoses and wrapped them in heat insulator sleeves routing them away from heat.
I can honestly say I never thought twice about this issue, but now you've piqued my curiosity. I have plans to redo my lines again with SS wrapped PTFE tubing with SS fittings when I install my BD up pipes that have been sitting in the rafters for a few years.
Keep us posted and good luck
Once you get home, relocate the regulator off the engine, as I mentioned mine is off the left side of the degas bottle (looking from the driver's seat) and I made my hoses and wrapped them in heat insulator sleeves routing them away from heat.
I can honestly say I never thought twice about this issue, but now you've piqued my curiosity. I have plans to redo my lines again with SS wrapped PTFE tubing with SS fittings when I install my BD up pipes that have been sitting in the rafters for a few years.
Keep us posted and good luck
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 817
Yeah that's where I'm going to reroute mine to and funny my AD2 is wide open as well and regulator set to 62psi as well lol. Thanks for the picture brother 👍
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 817
I don't think that will help cool the engine bay so for now I'll just forgo using the AC till i get home and get this figured out once and for all. Props for the isea though my friend 👍
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 877
Try to wrap every hose/line after re-routed in this:
I am redoing mine soon and already have the sleeve for it. It will add a bit of shielding IMO.
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 817
Shield the lines for now and see what happens.
Once you get home, relocate the regulator off the engine, as I mentioned mine is off the left side of the degas bottle (looking from the driver's seat) and I made my hoses and wrapped them in heat insulator sleeves routing them away from heat.
I can honestly say I never thought twice about this issue, but now you've piqued my curiosity. I have plans to redo my lines again with SS wrapped PTFE tubing with SS fittings when I install my BD up pipes that have been sitting in the rafters for a few years.
Keep us posted and good luck
Once you get home, relocate the regulator off the engine, as I mentioned mine is off the left side of the degas bottle (looking from the driver's seat) and I made my hoses and wrapped them in heat insulator sleeves routing them away from heat.
I can honestly say I never thought twice about this issue, but now you've piqued my curiosity. I have plans to redo my lines again with SS wrapped PTFE tubing with SS fittings when I install my BD up pipes that have been sitting in the rafters for a few years.
Keep us posted and good luck
Relocating the regulator off to the side like yours is seems like it's going to be a PITA, but i want/need to do it so have to do some research first to get a better idea how to do and not F up lol.
Mind you I've ran the truck through 2 hot summers already with zero issues so perhaps the regulator is just old and worn out and just needs to be replaced? 🤔
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 877
That is a strong possibility.
You may want to rebuild the regulator or start fresh with a new one. Since the system would be opened up.
Redoing the lines (if desired) isn't too expensive and fairly easy to do. The hard part is sourcing it all to make it work together. If you do remake lines you can buy SS components with braided PTFE for nice results.
At a minimum I'd wrap all lines in heat shield of some type.
Good Luck
You may want to rebuild the regulator or start fresh with a new one. Since the system would be opened up.
Redoing the lines (if desired) isn't too expensive and fairly easy to do. The hard part is sourcing it all to make it work together. If you do remake lines you can buy SS components with braided PTFE for nice results.
At a minimum I'd wrap all lines in heat shield of some type.
Good Luck
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 817
That is a strong possibility.
You may want to rebuild the regulator or start fresh with a new one. Since the system would be opened up.
Redoing the lines (if desired) isn't too expensive and fairly easy to do. The hard part is sourcing it all to make it work together. If you do remake lines you can buy SS components with braided PTFE for nice results.
At a minimum I'd wrap all lines in heat shield of some type.
Good Luck
You may want to rebuild the regulator or start fresh with a new one. Since the system would be opened up.
Redoing the lines (if desired) isn't too expensive and fairly easy to do. The hard part is sourcing it all to make it work together. If you do remake lines you can buy SS components with braided PTFE for nice results.
At a minimum I'd wrap all lines in heat shield of some type.
Good Luck
As for rebuilding it I've no idea where to get the proper parts for it so I'll just go new i guess.
Thanks brother 👍
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
One thing that REALLY helps is to put a fuel cooler in the return line back to the fuel tank. I used an add on transmission cooler about 8x12 and mounted it in front of the radiator. It also benefits the fuel pump. If you're in a really cold climate you can plumb in a bypass to help with gelling in the winter.
WPG--yes, you have that stupid a** fan stator. Do yourself a favor and get rid of it. Your heart and blood pressure will thank you for it later.
WPG--yes, you have that stupid a** fan stator. Do yourself a favor and get rid of it. Your heart and blood pressure will thank you for it later.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 817
One thing that REALLY helps is to put a fuel cooler in the return line back to the fuel tank. I used an add on transmission cooler about 8x12 and mounted it in front of the radiator. It also benefits the fuel pump. If you're in a really cold climate you can plumb in a bypass to help with gelling in the winter.
WPG--yes, you have that stupid a** fan stator. Do yourself a favor and get rid of it. Your heart and blood pressure will thank you for it later.
WPG--yes, you have that stupid a** fan stator. Do yourself a favor and get rid of it. Your heart and blood pressure will thank you for it later.
Thanks brother 👍
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,423
Likes: 938
From: Fort Worth, TX
Whatever you do, make sure the fuel lines in back don't touch the up-pipes or that fancy heat shield will wear through at the contact points. Happened to my coolant bypass line and I ended up with a coolant leak.