Spark Plug Wires ?? Plugs
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New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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Spark Plug Wires ?? Plugs
Greetings, I have a 2003/5 speed. Has anyone upgraded their plug wires, and/or spark plugs. I am considering JBA wires #06719, and copper Splitfires. I have been told that copper plugs conduct more than platinum, platinum however lasts longer............................................ .Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,532
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From: Trussville, Alabama
IMO, Splitfire plugs are just another form of snake oil.
I'd suggest staying with OEM (Motorcraft) replacements.
Others might feel different but unless you have other mods that dictate an upgraded wire/plug set, I'd stick with the OEM parts. They work well and last a long time.
But, that just my $.02.
here's some info.....
http://musclecars.blueygrey.com/doug...ood/hood.shtml
I'd suggest staying with OEM (Motorcraft) replacements.
Others might feel different but unless you have other mods that dictate an upgraded wire/plug set, I'd stick with the OEM parts. They work well and last a long time.
But, that just my $.02.
here's some info.....
http://musclecars.blueygrey.com/doug...ood/hood.shtml
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5
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I just switched from OEM plugs to Bosch double platinum. I lost 2mpg so this weekend I'm switching back to Motorcrafts. I read some other threads where people have had similar problems with other spark plugs on e and f series trucks.
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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I just started to do some routine mainetance for the first time and changed my spark plugs a month ago for the first time. I have an e150. Changing the spark plugs was not that difficult and they did not seize/ were not that tough to take out with the socket but... to reach the spark plugs I had to lay on the floor of the van which was awkward and the two furthest back were a little tough to reach.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Lufkin
On a 4.2 truck it's pretty simple. Just unplug the plug wires, get the socket and bit, and unscrew. Then reverse the process. The only real thing you need to worry about with the wires are getting the right wires to the right plugs in the right order. I'd do them 1 at a time to be safe. Just match the length up. Simple - 
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,887
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From: Florida
Changing the plugs on the 4.2 is an absolute pleasure.
Since my motor is modified, i run 2 steps colder plugs, Autolite 764's and gap them at .035. I also run Taylor Spiro Pro wires with them. The Spiro Pro's are excellent and offer some of the lowest resistance on the market. The only problem is that they don't make an exact fit kit for our trucks, so you have to order the Universal kit and cut/crimp them yourself. They are well worth it though. And look great. You can check them out here
http://www.taylorvertex.com/spark.html#spiro
I frequently pull a plug at random just to make sure my engine is running properly and that the plug is not fouling out. It's necessary for me to do this because of the colder plugs I'm running. And the 4.2 is easy as pie to check/change the plugs.
The Taylor wires, however, are a different story. Done properly, it took me in excess of 2 hours to measure/cut/crimp/route/install these wires. But they look great and are the best quality, right under MSD's.
Tom
Since my motor is modified, i run 2 steps colder plugs, Autolite 764's and gap them at .035. I also run Taylor Spiro Pro wires with them. The Spiro Pro's are excellent and offer some of the lowest resistance on the market. The only problem is that they don't make an exact fit kit for our trucks, so you have to order the Universal kit and cut/crimp them yourself. They are well worth it though. And look great. You can check them out here
http://www.taylorvertex.com/spark.html#spiro
I frequently pull a plug at random just to make sure my engine is running properly and that the plug is not fouling out. It's necessary for me to do this because of the colder plugs I'm running. And the 4.2 is easy as pie to check/change the plugs.
The Taylor wires, however, are a different story. Done properly, it took me in excess of 2 hours to measure/cut/crimp/route/install these wires. But they look great and are the best quality, right under MSD's.
Tom
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Florida
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 12
From: Sioux Falls SD
This is the first time for me taking plugs out of al. heads. Should the plugs come easy once broke loose like a cast Iron head? I attempted to remove the front plug on the driver side and seemed to break loose but turned very hard. I did not want to take threads so I stopped and tried to tighten again, did not feel right. The motor was cool, had been sitting all day.
Those things are a long way down there, did you guys cange them from under the truck?
Thanks Dan
Those things are a long way down there, did you guys cange them from under the truck?
Thanks Dan
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 5
From: Trussville, Alabama
Sometimes the plugs can be aggravating to remove if you are not applying force perpendicular to the head. If things aren't lined up just right, the plugs can bind in the aluminum head.
I guess you'll just have to gently remove them while applying a little "wiggle English".
I always use a dab of anti-sieze on the threads when installing new plugs.
I guess you'll just have to gently remove them while applying a little "wiggle English".
I always use a dab of anti-sieze on the threads when installing new plugs.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 12
From: Sioux Falls SD
Thanks Brian, I replaced them today. I had to stand on a stool to be able to reach but got them all out. I bought Autolite Platinum's at Autozone for 2.49 each. My truck has 83k on it and the plugs were wore out. GAp was close to .080 should be .052-.056 on my 99. The rough idle seems to be gone. No way those were going to make the 100k mark.
One question though, all six plugs looked to have been burning very clean although the #5 had some deposits on the sides of the ground electrode.
What did your #2 plug look like that the coolent was leaking into?
Dan
One question though, all six plugs looked to have been burning very clean although the #5 had some deposits on the sides of the ground electrode.
What did your #2 plug look like that the coolent was leaking into?
Dan
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 5
From: Trussville, Alabama
best I can describe it:
ash - a very slight ash build-up.
There was not much to it - only enough to make that plug look different.
It was a brown/tan color and was not the same as oil or carbon build up.
It was failry easly cleaned off.
ash - a very slight ash build-up.
There was not much to it - only enough to make that plug look different.
It was a brown/tan color and was not the same as oil or carbon build up.
It was failry easly cleaned off.