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I picked up a new EGR valve and solenoid on top for it. Took the old one off (it is stuck). I did the electrical tests for it and they passed. When I put on the new
valve and solenoid, hooked up the electrical connector and vacuum line, the idle shot up toe 3000. dropped down to around 2500 and held there. Before
putting the new parts on, it started fine and idles at around 600 rpm after a brief idle at around 1200 (normal).
Try taking the vacuum line off the EVR solenoid, but leave it connected to the EGR valve, and apply vacuum to the vacuum line, to see if the EGR valve pintle moves. You can see it through the side of the valve.
Try reseating the electrical connection at the EVP sensor, on top of the EGR valve.
That EVP sensor might be telling the computer, that the EGR valve is open, so the computer is trying to increase idle to compensate.
There are different gaskets or O rings, that go between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve, that will affect the stroke of that center pintle as well.
Try repeating the electrical tests, with the EVP installed, to see what voltage the EVP is sending to the computer. You'll have to pierce the wires or back probe the connector to test that voltage.
When you move that center pintle, by applying vacuum, the voltage should change. I use pulmonary vacuum, like drinking through a straw, or smoking a cigarette.
last year when I tested the EGR I could see the pintle valve in the EGR move when I increased the throttle. now, not at all.
I checked the vacuum line that connects to the EGR solenoid and there is no vacuum being supplied from the EVR. So
I suspect the problem is with the EVR. I'll try putting a rubber hose on the valve on the EGR and apply some suction to
see if I can get the pintle valve to move.
Can you use the vacuum line the runs to the solenoid to check it? When you apply vacuum to that line, the pintle should move up.
Here's a thread on testing https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa...cement.218407/
If the EGR valve is new, there's a good chance it's ok mechanically.
How are your vacuum lines? 5/32" rubber hose will work for vacuum lines.
I'm thinking the EVP sensor isn't seated correctly on the EGR valve, so it's sending inaccurate information to the computer. Go to the vacuum applied section of the tests in the link I posted, and test the range of voltage you're getting, while applying vacuum (suction) to the EGR valve.
If your vacuum lines are old and brittle, you may have created a vacuum leak.
last year when I tested the EGR I could see the pintle valve in the EGR move when I increased the throttle. now, not at all.
I checked the vacuum line that connects to the EGR solenoid and there is no vacuum being supplied from the EVR. So
I suspect the problem is with the EVR. I'll try putting a rubber hose on the valve on the EGR and apply some suction to
see if I can get the pintle valve to move.
will update with results shortly...
Just to clarify terminology, the EGR valve has a sensor on top. That sensor is the EVP sensor. (Egr Valve Position is where the term EVP comes from.)
That sensor sends varying voltage back to the computer, to tell the computer the position of the EGR valve pintle.
When you set the sensor on top of the EGR valve, and tighten the screws, it should end up at the proper end of the voltage scale.
The solenoid that sends vacuum to the EGR valve is called the EVR. (EgrVacuumRegulator is where the EVR acronym comes from)
ok...I found some vacuum line in a fuel pressure test kit that fit the vacuum nipple on the EGR valve. started the truck and removed the vacuum line
on the valve...put the rubber line on and sucked on it. the pintle valve easily opens and closes....so this means the EVR solenoid has STB?
ok...I found some vacuum line in a fuel pressure test kit that fit the vacuum nipple on the EGR valve. started the truck and removed the vacuum line
on the valve...put the rubber line on and sucked on it. the pintle valve easily opens and closes....so this means the EVR solenoid has STB?
Not necessarily, because the EVR solenoid only sends vacuum to the EGR valve under certain conditions, like warm engine and cruising speeds, with mid range throttle position.
Do that last resistance measurement I posted, then go to the testing thread I posted.
If you don't have a vacuum gauge, it is possible to feel vacuum at the end of a vacuum line, with your finger.
Be methodical and test it all.
The last test I posted will tell you if it's a problem with the way the EVP and it's O ring are seated on top of the EGR valve.
There's a thread concerning that somewhere, but I can't find it.
I did the test. I assume the truck is started when doing this test. measuring across the 2 pins without any vacuum being applied it is
around 3500 ohms. when I suck on the line, the engine begins to stumble and would have stalled had I continued applying a vacuum
on the line. It went down to around 1500 ohms. perhaps I'm not doing it correctly.
Here are the tests on the EVR solenoid....with key on, engine off, using my digital multi-meter across the 2 pins on the
plug, I see 44 Ohms. (I believe it's supposed to be 20-70...so good there. removed the vacuum hoses off the EVR.
Am seeing 20 inches of vacuum on the red line (vacuum from intake). So I THINK that is all there is to test that
unit I believe. When the ECU determines it's time to pull vacuum on the EGR, it should be set to do that..assuming
the magneto is not seized inside...
Here are the tests on the EVR solenoid....with key on, engine off, using my digital multi-meter across the 2 pins on the
plug, I see 44 Ohms. (I believe it's supposed to be 20-70...so good there. removed the vacuum hoses off the EVR.
Am seeing 20 inches of vacuum on the red line (vacuum from intake). So I THINK that is all there is to test that
unit I believe. When the ECU determines it's time to pull vacuum on the EGR, it should be set to do that..assuming
the magneto is not seized inside...
When testing resistance, do it with the key off.
When you say the "two pins on the plug", do you mean the two male spades on the EVR solenoid, that the wiring harness connects to? If so, then yes, 44 ohms is good
Twenty inches of vacuum from the manifold is good.
Set up a ground to the EVR solenoid, by either piercing the ground wire at the solenoid connector, or back probing the connector, but don't ground it yet. (EDIT: The dark green wire is the ground )
With your vacuum gauge connected to the top nipple of the EVR valve, turn the ignition to the run position, apply vacuum to the bottom nipple, to simulate the engine vacuum, then ground the EVR harness ground wire.
The EVR should activate, and vacuum should show up at the top nipple.
Don't keep the EVR solenoid grounded, cycle it. I don't think they're designed to be powered constantly.
If the EVR solenoid works, remove the gauge from the top nipple and reconnect the line, so the vacuum can go to the EGR valve and repeat the test. The EGR valve should move.
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