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When testing resistance, do it with the key off.
When you say the "two pins on the plug", do you mean the two male spades on the EVR solenoid, that the wiring harness connects to?
If so, then yes, 44 ohms is good
Twenty inches of vacuum from the manifold is good.
Set up a ground to the EVR solenoid, by either piercing the ground wire at the solenoid connector, or back probing the connector, but don't ground it yet. (EDIT: The dark green wire is the ground )
With your vacuum gauge connected to the top nipple of the EVR valve, turn the ignition to the run position, apply vacuum to the bottom nipple, to simulate the engine vacuum, then ground the EVR harness ground wire.
The EVR should activate, and vacuum should show up at the top nipple.
Don't keep the EVR solenoid grounded, cycle it. I don't think they're designed to be powered constantly.
If the EVR solenoid works, remove the gauge from the top nipple and reconnect the line, so the vacuum can go to the EGR valve and repeat the test. The EGR valve should move.
agreed on the 2 blade connectors on the EVR. 44 ohms. lots of vacuum supplied to it. looks to me like the magnetic portion is either seized/corroded or
the ECU is not supplying power when it should be. is there an electrical test that one can do on the plug that goes to it to verify that the ECU is supplying
the proper voltage? I assume the truck would need to be on and warmed up for the values to be measured.
agreed on the 2 blade connectors on the EVR. 44 ohms. lots of vacuum supplied to it. looks to me like the magnetic portion is either seized/corroded or
the ECU is not supplying power when it should be. is there an electrical test that one can do on the plug that goes to it to verify that the ECU is supplying
the proper voltage? I assume the truck would need to be on and warmed up for the values to be measured.
The link in post number 6 of this thread has very thorough testing. You have to click on the first picture in the link to expand all the tests.
Did you supply a ground to it with the key in the run position? That should have made it switch.
agreed on the 2 blade connectors on the EVR. 44 ohms. lots of vacuum supplied to it. looks to me like the magnetic portion is either seized/corroded or
the ECU is not supplying power when it should be. is there an electrical test that one can do on the plug that goes to it to verify that the ECU is supplying
the proper voltage? I assume the truck would need to be on and warmed up for the values to be measured.
Hold on. That thread only tests the EVP. I thought it had EVR test as well.
The red wire at the EVR should have 12 volts to battery negative, with the key in the run position.
The dark green wire goes to pin 33 at the ECM plug, at the firewall, but if you have 12 volts at the red wire, and you supply a ground to the dark green, and the solenoid doesn't activate, I'd replace it.
Hold on. That thread only tests the EVP. I thought it had EVR test as well.
I thought that but didn't want to say anything . A video dude on youtube (The Fix) put a good video out on a bronco with the 5.8
outlining the process of testing the whole EGR setup. That is what I followed.
turned the key to the ON position (engine off) pulled the connector off the EVR and put the red probe on the red wire with the volt meter
set to DC Volts. readings are all over the map. this points to the ECM I presume?
I noted that the red wire on the EVR had been pulled out pretty aggressively at some point in the past. the shielding on the wire was
removed about 3" up the wire. That and one of the bolts securing it to the bracket was missing (which I replaced). I'll trace the wiring
for this connector back to the harness to see if I can see anything obvious wrong before getting into the ECM.
The link in post number 6 of this thread has very thorough testing. You have to click on the first picture in the link to expand all the tests.
Did you supply a ground to it with the key in the run position? That should have made it switch.
Originally Posted by mackendw
turned the key to the ON position (engine off) pulled the connector off the EVR and put the red probe on the red wire with the volt meter
set to DC Volts. readings are all over the map. this points to the ECM I presume?
What ground are you testing to? Battery negative post should give you 12 volts steady.
How are the battery terminal connections and the connections of the large ground cable that goes from the battery negative to the frame and engine block?
The 12 volts doesn't come from the ECM. The ECM provides the ground, at appropriate times.
The 12 volts comes from the fusible links at the passenger's side inner fender, starter relay.
You more likely have a ground issue than an ECM issue.
I had my digital voltmeter set to DC volts, put the red probe on the red wire with the key on, engine off and black wire to a ground on the engine.
Battery has 2 connections from negative terminal, one to the firewall with a larger strap and one to the block. They are clean with no signs
of deterioration.
So I should be tracing the wire then from the starter relay and see if I can find its routing / condition to the EVR?
ok, progress. I inspected the battery to starter relay connections and one of the post nuts was not tight enough. Snugged that down
and now I'm getting 12V solid on the red wire to the EVR connector. Let the truck warm up but the EVR is not passing the vacuum
thru to the EGR.
Is starting the truck from cold and running it until the thermostat opens sufficient engine running time to tell the ECM to start
commanding the EGR valve to open?
You mentioned grounding the EVR using a probe into the green wire. Should I put a probe into the green wire when the
truck is running and warmed up and ground that to battery negative to see if it will trigger the EVR?
Note that there is a green lead coming from the starter relay that has a fuse just off it. Could this fuse be blown I wonder?
What else on the truck would this be supplying ground to? Nothing that I'm aware of is not functioning...
The green wire off the starter relay is not related.
When you get a chance check out posts 6 and 7 at this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-points.html
Also clean the connections at your engine block, frame and negative battery terminal.
Clean and reasonably tighten the connections at the battery positive terminal and fender mounted starter relay.
Disconnect the negative terminal at the battery first, before doing any cleaning, then reconnect the negative terminal last, when done cleaning.
Also, these two grounds need to be connected to the battery negative terminal. They go to pins 40 and 60 of the ECM.
Your connection doesn't have to look exactly like this, as long as those two wires have a good connection at the battery negative terminal.
My EVR connector was damaged like that too, and my air filter box was cracked. I figure it's from people putting their body weight on it, when trying to reach different parts of the engine. I ended up replacing my EVR connector.
Here's a project to consider if you still have the original vacuum lines.
I went for a run with the truck this morning...came back after it got up to temp. shut it off, turned key to ON position but didn't start it.
plugged in the Innova 3145 ODB1 reader, turned it on and hit test button. just got 11...no stored error codes (good news).
Then started the truck, turned reader ON again, hit test...shows 8 cylinders now (prior tests only showed 6. so that suspect that
bad ground connection may have been causing me grief all along.
Hit the brake pedal once and turned the wheel 1/4 turn in both directions. goosed the throttle after the 10 code was displayed.
it sped up the idle and went thru several tests. displayed codes:
33 (EGR fault - which I understand based on operation of the EVR fault...part ordered)
45 (thermactor air fault - this be the TAB/TAD solenoids I take it...?)
. A video dude on youtube (The Fix) put a good video out on a bronco with the 5.8 
