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What is your voltage to the coil? cutting part of it out would increase the voltage , depending on what ignition you're running that could be a problem or maybe not.
If original type ignition,it will affect spark in the start position on the key switch if the resister bypass to the I terminal on the fender well solenoid is not in place.Provides full 12v to coil in start.
In your other thread, I mentioned using a jumper wire to temporarily power the coil while you crank the starter. I believe you said you were seeing 5 V at the coil.
In a normal world that should be enough to give a decent enough spark to run the engine.
What other symptoms are you having? Sounds like you have spark, but the engine won’t start?
Does the starter crank normally
It does crank normally, but then it seems to try to fire it really “bogs” and almost stops cranking. If that makes sense. I am trying to find TDC but when I do, then do I point the rotor at the physical 1st cylinder or the 1 on the distributor? That has never been clear to me. Thanks for following up!
Yeah, the way most people type it on the computer, it’s not clear which it is.
They’re assuming everyone knows.
You want the rotor to point at/near the terminal on the distributor cap that has the number one cylinder spark plug wire attached to it. Not the physical cylinder.
Some distributor caps are marked with a “1” next to the correct location. usually at about the 1 o’clock position. If I remember…😁
It’s not a hard rule that says you always have to put the number one plug wire there, but it’s good practice for consistency in tuning and especially if someone else ever works on the vehicle.
And the “bogging“ that you’re describing while cranking, sounds like too much ignition advance, or timing that’s way off and the wrong cylinder is firing.
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