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Will the axles out of a 1992 f350 (dana 60 front) work to do a bolt-in solid axle swap on my 1983 f250 4x4? There’s a front/rear set for sale near me. Sorry if there’s another post explaining this, I looked but it seems like there’s a little more confusion as to the compatibility with f250s.
What is the axle code in your truck on the door sticker. You need to know what the axle code on the truck they are coming from. I would guess that would help.
Either way, most of those trucks have Sterlings, not Danas.
Is the gear ratio same as you already have ?
If it is SRW, every F350 SRW of that vintage I ever dealt with, the lug-nuts go on and come off HARD all the way, like the threads are badly crossed.
You can have those lug-nuts on and off a thouwwwzand times and they never get any easier.
Srw. It looks like it’s a sterling rear end with a dana 60 front off the f350. I’m not sure what my gear ratio is but considering I’d be buying a matching front and rear axle, both 3.55s, I figure i can swap my rear. I believe mine currently is a dana 60 rear and a dana 44 ttb front.
@SimonFordman Is this for your next YT video? I love watching your stuff.........except when you do the occasional Chevy or BMW........ (I know why you work on the Bimmer)
I did enjoy watching you resurrect the F-250. That felt good. Watching you get it stuck while four wheeling?
Will the axles out of a 1992 f350 (dana 60 front) work to do a bolt-in solid axle swap on my 1983 f250 4x4? There’s a front/rear set for sale near me. Sorry if there’s another post explaining this, I looked but it seems like there’s a little more confusion as to the compatibility with f250s.
Yes it will bolt in. You will need a different drag link for the steering, and I believe it requires a track bar also. You can re-use your front driveshaft, but if you get vibration in 4x4 you will need the cv front shaft from the later f350 as well as the front yoke off the transfer case.
If the rearend has a different size yoke on it, if it's the same type rearend you can swap yokes, or if you do not have a yoke they make adapter u-joints that are wide one way, narrow the other, and also larger diameter one way, smaller the other.
Yes it will bolt in. You will need a different drag link for the steering, and I believe it requires a track bar also. You can re-use your front driveshaft, but if you get vibration in 4x4 you will need the cv front shaft from the later f350 as well as the front yoke off the transfer case.
If the rearend has a different size yoke on it, if it's the same type rearend you can swap yokes, or if you do not have a yoke they make adapter u-joints that are wide one way, narrow the other, and also larger diameter one way, smaller the other.
Thank you, this is just what I need to know. Unfortunately it turns out the set of axles i was looking at already sold, but now I know what I can look for.
@SimonFordman Is this for your next YT video? I love watching your stuff.........except when you do the occasional Chevy or BMW........ (I know why you work on the Bimmer)
I did enjoy watching you resurrect the F-250. That felt good. Watching you get it stuck while four wheeling?
haha, thanks. Yea, I plan to make a video of it, but maybe not for a month or two yet.
Ever think of a coil spring conversion for the TTB axle. It makes it ride better and the independant action of the axles is increased. I took my 94 F-150 to the mud drags in Nebraska once and it did really well. I have a four inch lift with extended radius arms and four inch drop beams with dual shocks on each side. If I would build shock hoops for it with long travel shocks I could get a measured 15 to 17 inches of wheel travel measured at the wheel flange. Compare that to the wheel travel of the Ford Raptor. At the mud drags the TTB's took home the trophies that day. Builders are even converting Toyota Tundras to TTB long travel front ends for desert running.
Ever think of a coil spring conversion for the TTB axle. It makes it ride better and the independant action of the axles is increased. I took my 94 F-150 to the mud drags in Nebraska once and it did really well. I have a four inch lift with extended radius arms and four inch drop beams with dual shocks on each side. If I would build shock hoops for it with long travel shocks I could get a measured 15 to 17 inches of wheel travel measured at the wheel flange. Compare that to the wheel travel of the Ford Raptor. At the mud drags the TTB's took home the trophies that day. Builders are even converting Toyota Tundras to TTB long travel front ends for desert running.
That’s something I hadn’t considered. However, one of the reasons I want to get rid of the ttb is because i don’t want to deal with the alignment issues. Just from what I’ve heard, they’re a real pain to deal with. I’d like my truck do be able to do a little bit of everything, but truthfully it’ll be spending a lot of time on the streets and highway.
That’s something I hadn’t considered. However, one of the reasons I want to get rid of the ttb is because i don’t want to deal with the alignment issues. Just from what I’ve heard, they’re a real pain to deal with. I’d like my truck do be able to do a little bit of everything, but truthfully it’ll be spending a lot of time on the streets and highway.
Not a pain for you, just a little pain for the alignment guy and some pain in your pocket book when you get it aligned.
The TTB got a lot of hate when it first came out, till GM went to their independent frontend. Then the Ford guys realized how good they had it. Nothing wrong with the TTB, it rides very good and will have good tire wear IF the frontend components are in good shape. Problem is, like most vehicles they are run into the ground with high miles, then someone buys it and wonders why it has terrible tire wear and you can't hold it in the road. Ford didn't sell them this way, if the worn out parts are changed, it's kept at stock ride height, and it is properly aligned, it's a good frontend.