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I have a 76 F100 4 x 4 lift block measure 5 inches in the front and 5 1/2 inches in the back. Can anybody tell me what size of a lift that is? Trying to do away with the blocks and just buy lift leaf springs. Thanks
What kind of hackery did the PO do to that truck? Lol Tell me is a MUD truck and not used on pavement. NO FRONT blocks were ever put on (by the factory)... on the front of a leaf spring truck. In most states it is illegal to have front blocks.
I think the OEM REAR block is like 3" tall, so guessing you have a 4" to 6" lift. What size tires does it have?
How so you have leaf springs and front blocks on the front and it is a F100? That is a 1/2 ton and should have 5 lugs and radius arms and coil springs up front. Just curious and would like to see a pic of it. Only way to get a 5 lug 1/2 ton that is 4wd (with front leaf springs instead of coil springs) is for it to be a Super Cab. Is this truck a SC?
Now a 73-79 F250 (8 lug) 4wd always come with front leaf springs.
Atlas Suspension is the only company that offers any rear spring lift that is beyond 6". And that is called the rear block delete. And even if you get a 6" lift kit for the rear of a Ford from Skyjacker (for the rear of a F250 for sure) you still have to reuse the OEM rear block.
LOL. Sorry for the misunderstanding the block itself measures 5 inches in the front and it’s cut at an angle to 5 1/2 inches in the back of the block itself not blocks in the front suspension.🙂
4 to 6 inches is what I was thinking of just wasn’t sure how thick the factory blocks are. I believe it’s a skyjacker lift. I see they do offer springs for the rear. They almost $400 apiece though.
thank for reply
The difference in the block is to help/correct the axle pinion angle change due to the lift. Ok duh on me overreacting about you possibly having front lift blocks. Yes those are from some lift kit, the OEM one is like 3"...I think. I do have a couple of 4wd F150 parts trucks that I can measure the OEM block tomorrow for you.
Most lift kits give you a extra block to stack on top of the OEM one when you keep the same rear springs. I thought that 6" was the most available from Skyjacker. This site shows more than 6" available. In my defense, I usually only shop for F250 stuff.
If you want to ditch the rear blocks, read up on Atlas site about how to figure out how much a rear leaf spring lift to order, to delete the rear block all together.
No problem it did look like I had blocks in the front by the way I wrote it lol thank you for the information and if you don’t mind with the measurement of the factory blocked, I’d be awesome too
OEM rear block if 4x4, cast steel, 3" on front face and 3-1/4" on rear face to angle the pinion upwards a little. They have loops on one side for to "capture" the long U-bolts and they have "wings" like on the inner face to contact the snubbers on the frame.
Front had no blocks, the coil springs set in cups bolted on top of the radius arms.
Looking closely, I can see that the track bar and drag link are at two different angles, which means they swing the other end through two differing arcs on bumps and dips, the pitman arm is offset but not the track bar mount. That truck will have a great deal of bump steer.
No one thinks you are a complete moron, it's all good. Does is steer a little off and have the "bump steer" tbear talks about? The truck looks like it might need a trac bar drop bracket. Optimally when you lift a truck, you try to get the trac bar and the drag link parallel with each other, at least as much as possible by using a trac bar drop bracket to lower the connection point of the trac bar at the frame. Or use a adjustable trac bar (longer needed for a lift) to help re- center the front axle under the truck.
Well as far as those "loops" I have seen them on highboy truck rear blocks, but my 4wd 79 F250 did NOT have them. Some I had setting around the shop.
Maybe this engineering # can tell us what they go to.
Top one has the pin (on the bottom) of it to go in the axle leaf spring plate. The lower shorter/wider one, does not have the bottom pin to go in the leaf spring plate. But is has a hole you can drop a pin thru.
1979 4wd F250 with Skyjacker 6" lift replacement rear leafs. I had to reuse the rear block.
Look Ma no loops. But is has a pinion angle shim that came on the leaf spring.
Yes the inner wing is for your bump stops.
Thank you vary much for this info. I have not drive truck yet. This is my first lifted trk. So all new to me and obviously somebody else did the lift or else I would know about it. I will check into getting a drop bracket for the drag link. Here’s what the truck looks like now except for the front fenders and grill and everything are on it now. 66 body/76 frame.
Way cool, I like the steel rim and hub cap set up, it look right at home there. And the rest looks pretty cool also. So just to ask why do you want to remove the rear block? Are you afraid of it power hopping under acceleration? Obviously you do not know, since you said you have not driven it yet...but so you know with a lifted truck and a large block back there the truck can be prone to power hopping since the block acts as a leverage device for all the wrong reasons.
Thanks. Yes that, and I have heard of them falling out as well. Don’t know if that’s true though. I have a 472 with about 550-600 hp in it so it will be putting some leverage on those blocks. It’s not a street queen or show truck. It’s a hunting/fishing truck. Spends as much or more time in dirt than pavement.
Those blocks have a pin on the bottom that goes in the axle leaf spring plate centering hole. And the top plate, you put on (that is held down by the u bolts), has a hole that the leaf spring clamping center pin goes into. They are not just pinched in there.
If u bolts are torqued properly you should be fine with that block in there. A LOT OF FORD trucks, stock and lifted are just like that. IMO spend the time, $ and effort getting it back together and on the road. It looks very solid for now, I would not think you would spit out a block...... unless you drag race it with the mud tires on it.
If you have any crazy axle hopping issues when off road, then the rear leaf swap and block delete will not be that bad to do. 33's or 35's for tires?
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